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Old 10-17-2004, 02:16 AM   #586
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Quote:
Originally posted by diskostew
mine is just about built. It is all done and now I have to set it up. So I will do that tomorrow and hopefully be able to make it to the track next week. One thing that is cool is that the front shock tower sets up the shock placement like running a rear tower up front on the TC3. That works for me. My home track is SoCal and I believe that Tony Phalen said that the stock setup was compatible with SoCal...

I need to go pick up some sway bars... but i haven't found any yet. does anybody know where i can pick up a set?

also, I used to run 4 degrees of caster on my TC3. does anybody know the combination of shims to put in the front to make it 4 degrees? I believe it is set up for 2 degrees but i am not sure... I haven't put it on my setup station yet...
Jay, long time no see...

After racing was over tonight, I passed my Parts List onto Mas, he's going to make list's of the Factory Team parts that we wanted, and place an order during this week. I don't know for sure though if we will get the parts this Friday, due to availability from Associated, but it never hurts to ask...

I love the car. I built it in about five hours, and only found three "defective" parts. A bent hingepin, an input shaft pin with excess material on it, and a ballstud with excess material inside the hex.

From my five runs tonight, the car felt very good. I did not like the stock setup very much at all, it felt way too lazy for my driving style. Much of this is from the Plastic chassis, and the lack of sway-bars. I was amazed with how well the car worked, and of the five runs I was able to drive today, the car got better and better each run.

Socal
Sportsman Stock Sedan - TQ, 1st
Pro Mod - TQ, 1st

Hmmm, I believe it works...

By the way, Brent and Fill, thanks for all the help tonight, I really appreciate it.
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Old 10-17-2004, 02:45 AM   #587
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51, Thanks for the info, i read someplace else that the swaybars are the same but it was the connectors that were differnt. Is ther any chance somebody can hook me up? I would be stoked!!!!

Chris!!! Still chillin at SoCal??? I will be back really soon! I have been working way toooooo much to race but i am on my way back!

Glad to hear that car handels well!!! if you can drive it that give me hope I am worried about the swaybars tho... hopefully i can get the parts to make them work.

as far as "defective" parts... my kit was pretty cool. the only problem is that i had 2 bent hinge pins. the funny thing is that 1 is on the front hub carrier and one is on the back carrier... weird....

all and all by just putting it together i am verry impressed with the kit. I can't wait to see how it handles!

Chris, if you got any pointers... HOOK ME UP!!!!
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Old 10-17-2004, 02:48 AM   #588
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My LHS should be getting their shipment in this week, so I'm pretty stoked. I need to take all the ti screws, and IRS parts off my TC3 to have them ready to put on the new car. Sadly I don't think all of my ti screws will fit, but I guess that's just a price you have to pay for a better car.

Anybody have an idea whether the IRS pin cushions will fit the CVD's included with the kit? I have the IRS outdrivers, but I don't want to gouge them with the steel pins.

Question for the people who have built the car: how decent are the stock rubber shielded bearings?

Josh
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Old 10-17-2004, 02:54 AM   #589
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Quote:
Originally posted by LoSi xXx S
anybody got pics of there cars yet ?
Yep, I'm very bored...
Here you go...



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Old 10-17-2004, 03:18 AM   #590
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Jay, my bent hingepin was for a rear carrier too... weird... hahaha.

As for pointers, put on a durable spur gear. After I built mine with the stock Kimbrough 72tooth, I relized that it was EXTREEMLY diffacult to change it. You have to take off the drive cup, to slide the berring out, and then you can take off the berring support, AND FINALLY you can take off the spur... This is not also including the six screws to take off the rear diff case top(and if you didn't dremel the camber link positions, you might have to take off those other six screws holding the chassis braces).
Plug the holes in the diff cases that are used on the NTC3(the holes that go through, making a hole in the drivetrain. You can use a screw, or a setscrew...
Use some low profile locknuts for the wheels. The included ones work great, but the low profile ones are more predictable.


Josh, Rubber Sealed Berrings-Seals=Air Sealed Berrings...
Which has more friction; Rubber, or Air?

They work just fine, yet they are not as free as Teflon sealed berrings, or metal sheilds for that matter. They are very durable though.

Pin cushions: the bones on the kit are MIP bones, which are the same in TC3 kits, but the TC4's are larger in diameter to prevent bending under load. Because the outdrives are the same on the TC4 as on the TC3, I would believe that the pin cushions would work in the TC4's bones(where the bone enters the outdrive is the same size as on the TC3, so if it works on the TC3, shouldn't it on the TC4?).
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Old 10-17-2004, 07:45 AM   #591
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anybody got feedback on the cars performance?
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Old 10-17-2004, 09:19 AM   #592
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got mine built last night, going to put electronics in it tomorrow and see what happens
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Old 10-17-2004, 09:23 AM   #593
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I was looking at the CVD's...i'm not too sure that the pin cushions will work, the pin appears to be larger in the TC4 to fit tighter in the outdrive of the diff to take out slop, i also noticed that i didn't have to open up the diff cases to free up the drivetrain, looks like the new ones are molded SLIGHTLY better
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Old 10-17-2004, 09:31 AM   #594
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...adding on to clod's post, it felt like the car went together really well, no real filing or grinding to get the suspension free....i just put it together. As far as the drivetrain, i would proberly look into 'adding' some shims to take some slop out of it.

On the bad side of the car, the pivot balls that hold the pins into the armmounts are molded plastic that you have to cut off of a parts tree...causing burrs. I personally would like to see some steel pivot balls, or aluminum, like you see in the pro4. Also, I liked the old days of associated manuals, with actual wording so you can verify where parts go, and so on....they took that away, and made this manual a picture book

but, overall, i liked the car, and some of the new features, and I think i will wait until a graphite version comes out, to wait and see, what breaks, and how the car performs for a club racer level driver, such as myself. That is also because, i got my pro4 running not to long ago, and i feel comfortable with it....but i definitly will drive clod's tc4!!
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Old 10-17-2004, 09:42 AM   #595
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I was also impressed by the drivetrain. the drivetrain is verry smooth right out of the box! I would bet it will get even better after you run it a couple of times!

Chris, Thanks for the tips! CRAP! i will have to put a better SPUR in. I thought it looked a little tough so i went ahead and put a 64 pitch one in so i wouldn't have to mess with it. The one i put it is thin... I better put a more burly one in. 72 tooth 48 pitch Don't you allways run 64 pitch stuff??? hell you are the one that told me to go to 64 pitch

Chris one more thing.... i knoticed in the pics you posted, you are running red springs in the rear... what are you running in frount? the old standerd for tc3's and socal i allways thought it was Blue in front and silver in rear... that doesn't work well with the tc4? Also what are you running for caster in front?
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Old 10-17-2004, 10:53 AM   #596
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if you go with a 64p how many teeth are you gonna get? 98 i would think?
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Old 10-17-2004, 11:02 AM   #597
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Quote:
Originally posted by bubbles
Yep, I'm very bored...
Here you go...



what the heck? bubbles u got your TC4 already?
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Old 10-17-2004, 11:04 AM   #598
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Quote:
Originally posted by futureal
What Ultimate is doing is pretty shoddy anyway, and although it sounds dumb from a consumer standpoint, I really encourage people not to support stores that do things like that. You might save a bit here and there, but it really hurts everybody else out there in the industry. That's the reason that MAP policies are in effect.
Pretty shoddy? just because they can sell things cheaper, & others price gouge, for my money i will always go to the place that has it the cheapest & first! if you want to pay more thats just foolish, i support people that support us with low prices & service, no matter if it is food, gas or R/C related etc.
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Old 10-17-2004, 11:09 AM   #599
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exactly your not gonna buy something thats like 40 bucks more than a place you know thats selling it cheaper.
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Old 10-17-2004, 11:44 AM   #600
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got a 104 in mine, MIGHT be able to squeeze in a 106 or 110, without any cutting definately with a little massaging you could get a 110 in there provided it doesn't hang out the bottom of the chassis
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