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Old 08-09-2005, 08:59 AM   #5911
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Default I Did It

I bought a TC4 to replace my TC3. Just a few questions, 1st, will the tub chassis be stiff enough to use on carpet ( I replaced the tc3 tub with an IRS kit for stiffness), 2nd, what springs (the cf car wanted less spring), 3rd, how does anyone get this car to tweak flat( I think the tub is twisted). I'm just trying to relate what I know from one car to another.
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Old 08-09-2005, 10:48 AM   #5912
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Default Here is my setup Dan.

Front:

-70w, #2 piston, yellow spings, upper shock 2nd hole out from inside, bottom shock inside.
-No shims under the toe blocks
-upper camber links longest, with three shims
-camber link on bottom use outer hole on the knuckle with two shims on the steering rack, two shims for bump steer.
-long wheel base
-no sway bar
-4degree caster blocks
-1.5 camber
-battery forward
-1mm droop from the inside of the shock collar
-Plaid tires

Rear:
-50w, #2 piston, copper springs, upper shock out on the tower, bottom shock outside.
-No shims under toe blocks
-longest camber link length with two shims on the inside
-long wheel base
-no sway bar
-2.5 rear toe
-2.0 camber
-1mm droop from the inside of the shock collar
-0degree rear Losi hubs with one shim
-Purple tires

It has a good amount of traction without scrubbing speed. It has plenty of steering enter, mid and exit, (could use alittle more on mid-exit, but I think that comes down to taking the right apex angle) I'm running an Alfa body and Losi JRX-S shocks. Personally I think the molded graphite tub chassis is fine, I would like it to be alittle stiffer, but then it can be less forgiving. I think I'm ready for the next level though. BMI here I come! I'm going to try balancing the chassis. I'm told this can make a difference. Welcome to the TC4 club Dan. On the chassis tweak thing, I don't think you will ever find a perfect molded chassis. You will have to use scales to correct it. This is something I also want to try.

Last edited by RCknight; 08-15-2005 at 02:47 PM.
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Old 08-09-2005, 11:27 AM   #5913
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Default :)

My tub chassis is all crazy too. It literally rocks when I place it on a smmoth flat surface. I can set it up on a tweaks board and it drives great most of the time, but I have to check it every run, and sometimes my preload is WAY off. I usually get the ride height at four corners within 3/4 mm either way from 5 mm. I am definitely jonsing for a bmi chassis. Especially since I have learned to hit fewer boards and when I do I hit them softer.
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Old 08-09-2005, 02:34 PM   #5914
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tc3 racer sc : what can i do to tighten the rear up i was running at a track this past weekend testing for a race nxt week the track is a indoor asphalt very smooth almost like carpet, i ran red fronts,4degree caster,blue rear springs, 2.o toe in rear shock2 hole on front tower cclose to bulk head, inner hole on arm, rear on tower 3 hole, outer on rear arm camber links in stock postion close to bulk head, need advice thxs


I was there too (the Coliseum) this past weekend. My first question would be to ask if you used paragon on the tires. If so and you are still loose, and it is through the entire corner (like mine was initially), i would change the shims under your hingepin blocks. I would start with a number three shim under both front blocks, and number two shims under the rear blocks. Make sure you readjust droop to the previous setting. Drive the car and see if that made the proper change. Honestly, the car should push like a freighttrain, assuming the rest of your setup is close. To me, 4 degrees of caster made the car too loose coming into the corner, and the TC4 steering block gave the car too little ackerman. I added the XXX-S steering blocks with proper bumpsteer spacing (.090 in my car) and two degree caster blocks. The car was more consistent, but i still had a push, and my setup was ALOT looser than yours. (front shocks #2 piston 45wt oil purple spring/rear shocks #2 piston 50wt oil yellow spring... no i didnt type that backwards, and .055 swaybars front and rear and the rear bar with 1/8" adjustment in) I managed 11.3's, but the car still needed work. Good luck.

- DaveW
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Old 08-09-2005, 08:05 PM   #5915
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Default Anyone have a trick...

for keeping the rubber gromets in place when using a NTC3 bumper on a TC4? The gromets keep coming out of the RPM plastic bumper and it keeps bending down. I would like to tighen the rubber gromets and RPM bumper down on the chassis bumper to keep it all together. Then place the foam bumper over it. Has anyone come up with a easy fix before I try to tackle it. Are there any after market cf upper bumper braces that would fix this?
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Old 08-09-2005, 08:39 PM   #5916
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wyd
Your car was loose at Frederick? Wow that track has more traction than velcro with glue on it!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It has carpet like traction.

I'm running Gold front springs and blue rears with 40wt and #2 pistons at C. Shocks all the way out on the front tower and in one on the rear tower. 2.0 rear toe in block and have lots of traction.
well i heard that the stop putting wd 40 dwn and they change the track i was there sunday and craig xavier was there his car was loose too
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Old 08-09-2005, 08:43 PM   #5917
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The big end of the grommets should be on the top of the RPM NTC3 bumper, then the foam bumper goes over top of that. The grommets will then hold the bumper down. Better yet, ditch the whole NTC3 bumper setup and get a Rubberneck Racing foam bumper.
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Old 08-09-2005, 09:06 PM   #5918
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tc3 racer sc
well i heard that the stop putting wd 40 dwn and they change the track i was there sunday and craig xavier was there his car was loose too
They did stop using WD at this time. The layout we raced on this week was its 3rd week of being up. They will change it after the race Saturday.

I know Craig has been trying some new stuff. His car was dialed a few months ago but he seems to be slightly off the last few times at Frederick. Kinda unlike him I must say. I'm sure he will get it dialed in.
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Old 08-09-2005, 09:33 PM   #5919
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stealth_RT
Better yet, ditch the whole NTC3 bumper setup and get a Rubberneck Racing foam bumper.
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Old 08-09-2005, 10:10 PM   #5920
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Which do you guys think is the better buy, the BMI chassis or the 3racing chassis?
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Old 08-09-2005, 10:17 PM   #5921
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Default I would say the BMI is much better.

I have read that the quality of the 3Racing chassis is not as good as a BMI. The BMI has a lot of nice features you don't see on other chassis. It's one of a kind. My two cents.
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Old 08-09-2005, 10:22 PM   #5922
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Default Stealth_RT

I did that and it still didn't work. I may get a P-Dub, but I don't think it will work with the rubber gromets and RPM bumper. I may get one anyway and cut it down and recess holes for the groments to fit into. That might work better.
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Old 08-10-2005, 06:40 AM   #5923
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I used a LIBERAL amount of ca to attach the grommets to the bumper. Never had a problem after that though. I have since moved to teh p-dub and havenm't regretted it one bit. A much better bumper. Looks alone did it for me.
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Old 08-11-2005, 12:36 PM   #5924
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Talking I did it

RCknight, I used your setup wed. night with a few changes.
FT. heavy sway bar,
RR. red springs and a lite sway bar,
The changes were more for my comfort, I'm sure I'll be closer to your setup after I'm more familiar with the car. I did pick up two laps over my average, I also had motor issues witch didn't help. Overall I'm not dissappointed with the TC4 now all I have to do is stop messing with it untill I get used to it.
THANKS
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Old 08-11-2005, 01:28 PM   #5925
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Default Great to hear Dan!

I think you will like it, since it has some nice updates over the TC3. How did the car steer? Sounds like my BMI will be coming next week sometime. Oh! You better get yourself a brushless!
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