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Old 07-25-2005, 12:00 AM   #5761
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I was briefly in the hobby racing RC10T2's with a Cyclone ESC controlled with a 3PS and the RC10 whatever Oval Car before my daughter came along, now I am back and quickly grabbed up a RC10B4 and was looking to get into touring cars. Well I found a good deal on a JRS-X with Quantum 2 on this forum and picked it up but now for some reason I feel dirty owning a Losi. I plan on keeping the Quantum 2 but am looking to get rid of the JRS-X and picking up either the TC4 Factory Team Kit when it comes out or an X-Ray (I live in Dallas and RC America is here). Anyway I have two questions:

1) Any idea when the TC4 Factory Team Kit will be availabe? Tower Hobbies says July.
2) How does the TC4 compare in everyday tracks versus the belt cars? I know it won Reedy with some slight controversy but how can I expect to do with it on a track full of X-Rays?

Thank you!
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Old 07-25-2005, 12:03 AM   #5762
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Im with you on the ball cups. After several weeks of racing with the tc4 I had a run in with a wall that rammed the turnbuckle into the ball cups giving me like 7 degrees of neg camber the rest of the race. Went with the rpms (I even bought the extra long ones and cut them down so they would fit . . . a bit of insurance) and have had no problems since.

Are you able to get your tweak and ride height where you want them with out compromising one or the other? I guess I need to confess . . .I mentioned the razor blade strategy as if I knew how to use it. I am not sure I do. I get the idea of adding more preload on the side that raises first, but I am starting to think this is a left/right/front/rear at teh same time dynamic adjustment. I can get the front end tweaked level by adjusting only the front shocks, and I can then turn it to adjust the rear and get that tweaked level, but when I go back to the front to check it, is off again. Thanks for giving this thought. You wouldn't believe how frustrating it has been knowing I can drive XXX laps if only I could get my car setup the same each race/qualifier. Thanks again BlackKat


Andrew
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Old 07-25-2005, 12:34 AM   #5763
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewdoherty
I am not sure I do. I get the idea of adding more preload on the side that raises first, but I am starting to think this is a left/right/front/rear at teh same time dynamic adjustment.
The "Hobby Knife" Trick

Lift the chassis from the center point of the front end (use the bumper screw as a guide here) One wheel will lift before the other. Increase the rear shock's preload on the side that lifts last (ie: If my left front lifts first, put more preload on the right rear shock, if my right front lifts first then put more preload on the left rear shock)

Same idea for the rear (lift the rear of the chassis from the center point. Left rear lifts first? More Preload on right front!)

What it does: Say your left front wheel lifts before the right front. You put more preload on the right rear because the right side of the car is "sagging" More preload puts more tension on the spring and eliminates the sag

I hope this helps!
-Dan
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Old 07-25-2005, 12:51 AM   #5764
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Quote:
The "Hobby Knife" Trick

Lift the chassis from the center point of the front end (use the bumper screw as a guide here) One wheel will lift before the other. Increase the rear shock's preload on the side that lifts last (ie: If my left front lifts first, put more preload on the right rear shock, if my right front lifts first then put more preload on the left rear shock)

Same idea for the rear (lift the rear of the chassis from the center point. Left rear lifts first? More Preload on right front!)

@BlackKat-I understood %100. Last race a generous veteran racer helped me get my car set up. He actually had a tweak station but I saw him messing with the rear shocks when he was checking the front end, just like you described. I just needed it put to words cuz I wasn't able to follow the "why" part of his process. As I thnk about this techniqe and try to find all the details in getting my car set up correctly I am thinking this technique would be best to use immediately after cutting my tires as I get minor variations in dia after a few runs.

@ James- Im in Dallas also. It is my opinion that the TC4 would do just fine against a track full of x-rays. However, if everyone is running x-rays at the track where you race, I will say it is mighty convenient to have several other people running the same car as you when the time comes to solve a problem or get a part. Where do you race in dallas? You ought to check out Mikes Hobby Shop in Carrolton. Theres a link in my sig. Also, let me know what you are hoping to get for your JRXS, what condition its in, and what youre including if anything. I AM INTERESTED. : )

Andrew
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Old 07-25-2005, 12:54 AM   #5765
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Andrew -

Mikes Hobby Shop is where I plan to race, was there today. As for the JRS-X, send me a PM.

James
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Old 07-25-2005, 01:12 AM   #5766
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Glad I was able to help Andrew. Have fun dude!

Anyone have any good rubber tire setups for low-medium traction carpet (euro-style!) besides the Juho "Basement" setup? I'm gonna give that one a try for sure but I'm curious if theres anything else out there thats any good.
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Old 07-25-2005, 01:14 AM   #5767
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I have a couple that Raving Monkey sent me. He said they worked very very well for him. PM me an address and I'll email the pdf's.

Andrew
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Old 07-25-2005, 08:37 AM   #5768
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Has anybody bought the Tuning Guide E-Book for the TC3 from the AE web site ? Just wondering if it goes into suspension set-up and explanation any deeper then the instructions that come with the kit ?
Thanks.
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Old 07-25-2005, 08:38 AM   #5769
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yep. well worth my money. It picks up where the manual leaves off.
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Old 07-25-2005, 09:04 AM   #5770
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i had (or stilll have) the e-book somewhere..but i didn't find it as useful as the XXX main or the hudy one.

the XXX one goes into detail WHY things happen when you change things..but the hudy one is simplified and easier to follow..plus i got it free with the kit
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Old 07-25-2005, 10:35 AM   #5771
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Hi

Anyone know where i can get a team bomber center shaft for the TC4? im having real trouble sourcing one. Also, any of you know how well they hold up to low turn mod racing?

thanks
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Old 07-25-2005, 07:32 PM   #5772
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Exclamation help

This is killing me. I have gone through my car twice and can't seem to get rid of this problem. When I accelerate, the car pulls hard left. When I brake, it pulls hard right. I have double checked my set up repeatedly. I am fairly certain that my tweak is the problem, although at this point I'm open to ANY suggestions. I have the ride height at 4.5mm, the camber all around at -1.5, the droop is set to 5 all the way around, and the toe is 0 in the front and 2.0 in the rear. Ill post the set up Im using in hopes someone can spot what I have missed repeatedly. The really frustrating part is that last week a veteran driver looked over my car and wrenched on it for a bit and eliminated the pull. At that time though, I had a set up that didn't have enough rear traction. . .I was sliding all around the track. So I switched to a proven set up for my track and now the pulling problem is back. I didnt get a chance to see exactly what he did, so now I'm stuck. I do know he was using a tweak board. So please . . .anyone . . .have some mercy on a rookie driver . . .what do I do? (I have intentionally refrained from listing all the things that I "know" it isn't becasue I know it must be some little thing I have over looked. I am open to any and all suggestions no matter how small, dumb, or complicated.
THE END (whew what a book I wrote!!)
Thankfully hopefull

Andrew
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Old 07-25-2005, 08:11 PM   #5773
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomlau
Hi

Anyone know where i can get a team bomber center shaft for the TC4? im having real trouble sourcing one. Also, any of you know how well they hold up to low turn mod racing?

thanks
i heard they hold up very well...

www.speedtechrc.com sells them.
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Old 07-25-2005, 09:10 PM   #5774
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Default Andrewd....

get a digital caliper. Make sure all your shocks are the exact length.

Check for a bent hinge pin or a cracked arm or c-hub.

Check all the screws, are they tight. I know my steering rack posts can get loose and the screws can come loose if you use aluminum toe blocks. Also don't overtighten screws try to keep them all the same. Just snug. When removing screw, turn counter clock wise until the screw "drops" into the threads. This will save you from replacing parts more offten.

Put your car on a flat surface when building the car, tightening down chassis braces and diff cases.

Put your car on a setup station and make sure your front toe is correct each side.

Something simple, but make sure you have all the same shocks placed at the same angles and that you have all the same shims in each arm. Something could be shifting under load.

Go through this check list when setting it up.
1st back out your droop screws
2nd adjust ride height with your battery in it.
3rd check camber (use a setup station it's more exact)
4th set droop on glass or something very flat. I like keep the top of the spring just touching the shock collar and you can still turn the spring. The battery side can have different droop settings because of the weight of the battery.
5th recheck your camber.

Some times it's just something simple we over look.
Good luck buddy.

Last edited by RCknight; 07-25-2005 at 09:26 PM.
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Old 07-25-2005, 09:35 PM   #5775
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Thanks rcKnight. Of the things you mentioned the only ones I hadn't tried yet is running different droop on the battery side and measureing the shocks with a caliper. (dont have digital caliper yet. In the mail for exactly this reason!) Do y'all think NOT doing this could cause the pull? I have it on an integy version one setup board and Ive got zero front toe, 2. rear toe and -1.5 camber. I've been setting the droop with the associated plastic stick. Is this not precise enough? The steering rack is tightened and has only a small amount of slop. Is it possible that my tub is tweaked severely? Meaning that it is tweaked so much I cant make up for it with my other adjustments? I was thinking about how I left my r/c car in my car in the heat the other day. Could this have warped it? Even when I loosen all 12 chassis brace screws it seems the chassis rocks the tiniest bit from corner to corner and is not remedied when I press the chassis flat on a marble couter and tighten the brace screws.. Are there any other methods of setting tweak with out a tweak board? An inquiring mind wants to know. Thank for being gracious to such a bewildered and bumbling rookie.

Andrew
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