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Old 07-21-2005, 09:37 AM   #5716
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S_fender
I run with the lightened steel diff since 8 month and he is really tight and i've no problem... may be your screw was the problem...
I run all the time with the lightened ones and never had a problem. It might have been the screw. In fact, most of the guys I run with are using the lightened steel ones and I know of only one instance one side broke...of course, he hit the wall pretty hard and, well, it probably SHOULD have broken.

MikeDeadly: You could dremel the openings of the TC4 drive cups a bit, but as JDM_DOHC_SiR mentioned you might get some wobble in your drivetrain.
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Old 07-21-2005, 09:39 AM   #5717
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i ran with lightened ones since 1 week after i got the tc4 (got it late december) and they are only just showing signs of wear, and thats with running mod motors, stock and spec motors, week in week out.
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Old 07-21-2005, 10:26 AM   #5718
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Default BMI vs Associated conversion

I have been reading alot about this BMI chassis and it sounds great. I have a TC4 Team kit and i will be looking to upgrade soon. I just don't know whether to get the BMI or the Associated conversion. I see negatives about the motor mounts for the BMI chassis. What is that all about. I just need pros and cons for both. Thanks.
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Old 07-21-2005, 10:50 AM   #5719
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MO92 - I'm in the same boat as you are. Should I get the BMI chassis or wait for the AE version?
Well I've had a chance to touch and drive the BMI chassis and it feels good. I have had a chance to TOUCH ONLY the AE Chassis and I've decided to wait for the AE version. BMI has done a great job, but I think AE has improved on several areas of the chassis that can only be discovered by a Drive of the vehicle. I'm not a patient person but I've discovered n the r/c industry that most of the time the second version is better than the first.(fingers XX).
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Old 07-21-2005, 11:56 AM   #5720
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mo92
I have been reading alot about this BMI chassis and it sounds great. I have a TC4 Team kit and i will be looking to upgrade soon. I just don't know whether to get the BMI or the Associated conversion. I see negatives about the motor mounts for the BMI chassis. What is that all about. I just need pros and cons for both. Thanks.
I'm sure both conversions will be nice but the motor mount on the BMI right now is using the stock Associated mount but he will have a nicer version avaialble at a later time like his TC3 conversion had. Both will be nice but I like the BMI setup for me but I'm sure the Associated version will be nice as well. For me I had prior expexiance with BMI on other kits so the choice for me was easy.

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Old 07-21-2005, 12:04 PM   #5721
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wyd - Equipped.
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Old 07-21-2005, 12:11 PM   #5722
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Originally Posted by NVisible
wyd - Equipped.
Thansk. I guess I should fix that!!!!!!
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Old 07-21-2005, 12:32 PM   #5723
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RCknight
I blew out both the front and rear plastic diffs tonight. AE diffs are bad and it seems they need rebuilt every 2-3 weeks in stock racing??? I build them according to the instructions so it's not me. The plastic ones expand under the heat and the steel ones are are heavy. I tried the lightened steel ones, they are brittle, I chipped the corners off two of them and they keep breaking diff screw hex heads off. I wish AE would start making some quality diffs. I'll pay for it and so would all the other guys at my track. I'm jealous the X-ray and Corally guys can go a racing season without even adjusting them. I like the idea of the spring steel diffs like the X-ray. They are light enough, hold up well and they can be adjusted externally. Having a diff cover would keep the s-gease in them. Please, some after market company come to the rescue!!!
I don't know what you are doing, but I have the stock plastic diffs front and rear. I've been running 19t, and I've never had a diff problem. I have the same diffs that the kit came with, and I got mine as soon as the kit was released - running it an average of one race day every two weeks since then. No problems at all. The only thing I have ever broken on the car, was when I let a friend drive it and he ran it into a board (hard) at a carpet track - broke a front arm and bent a Ti hingepin, but no diff damage. It isn't as if I don't hit anything, I've trashed 3 bodies in the time I've had the car. It amazes me how many people say that these "have to be upgraded", but mine have been fine. What are you guys hitting anyway?
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Old 07-21-2005, 04:02 PM   #5724
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RCknight,
I can promise you Corally diff's don't last longer they are open, the xray diffs are sealed so they last forever but the Corally diff is good for about 5 runs

on my tc4 i use the steel spool and the plastic diff i put black grease on the cvd pins for both the spool and the diff this works well for me since my diff has 15 runs on it and it is fine
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Old 07-21-2005, 08:34 PM   #5725
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Default setup

Any one else using this set up? I went about setting my car up according to it and noticed a couple weird things. What set ups are most of you using for med grip carpet? Im looking for a good baseline. I remembered something about this set up mentioned before but couldn't find where.

The two things that caught my attention were the rear ballstud location

(-.060" with a black ballstud . . .Is he saying he ground the chassis brace down .060 and used a black ball stud or is he saying he used the black ballstud to lower the ballstud location .060"?)


and the front toe in turn buckles. When I put 4 .030" washers (to acheive .120") between the steering arm and the ball stud the turn buckles rub on the chassis. He also has .120" worth of washers under the steering rack ball studs. This just seems strange that it rubs. Seems he (Barry Baker) would have mentioned cutting the chassis to keep the turnbuckles from rubbing. What am I missing here?
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Old 07-21-2005, 08:50 PM   #5726
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewdoherty

(-.060" with a black ballstud . . .Is he saying he ground the chassis brace down .060 and used a black ball stud or is he saying he used the black ballstud to lower the ballstud location .060"?)

?
the black ball stud sits -.060 lower than the silver ball stud
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Old 07-21-2005, 09:43 PM   #5727
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewdoherty
Any one else using this set up? I went about setting my car up according to it and noticed a couple weird things. What set ups are most of you using for med grip carpet? Im looking for a good baseline. I remembered something about this set up mentioned before but couldn't find where.

The two things that caught my attention were the rear ballstud location

(-.060" with a black ballstud . . .Is he saying he ground the chassis brace down .060 and used a black ball stud or is he saying he used the black ballstud to lower the ballstud location .060"?)


and the front toe in turn buckles. When I put 4 .030" washers (to acheive .120") between the steering arm and the ball stud the turn buckles rub on the chassis. He also has .120" worth of washers under the steering rack ball studs. This just seems strange that it rubs. Seems he (Barry Baker) would have mentioned cutting the chassis to keep the turnbuckles from rubbing. What am I missing here?

Tire size and ride height play a key factor in the turnbuckle not rubbing, check the set up again and see what those factors were.
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Old 07-21-2005, 09:46 PM   #5728
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TC4 SWEET!! I really like this car on carpet.I dont have any problems with this car..but i dont really hit much with it..
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Old 07-21-2005, 11:38 PM   #5729
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Default well . . .

The set up doesn't list a tire size, but my tires are trued down to between 58 and 59 mm. I do have my ride height set to the correct height. It seems that at rest the turn buckles should not be close to rubbing because body roll through the corners would allow the inside toe-in turn buckle to rub on the chassis. Still stumped if anyone has any more ideas. Thanks for giving it some thought Dave and slotmachine!
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Old 07-22-2005, 01:09 AM   #5730
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whats a blade is it the same as an outdrive or no
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