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Old 07-11-2005, 11:03 AM   #5491
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it seals the layers of the carbon fibre...holds them together more securely rather than just having the bonding between the layers.

it also helps stop delaminating (layers coming away from each other) in a hard crash, but saying that..i've seen more of this in 12th scale than TC
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Old 07-11-2005, 12:05 PM   #5492
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hi guys i was jsut curious what kind of shock lengths you run on your tc4s for low/med grip asphalt with rubber tires
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Old 07-11-2005, 12:07 PM   #5493
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dawgmeat
I'm a very proud owner of the RDX, but I must admit that I'm thinking about gettin' the factory TC4.I was helping a freind set-up his TC4" he's newbie", I took it for a few laps and loved it and I love the idea that you can change car set-up from carpet to pavement without buying another chassis or speacial parts. So do think thet address the slop issue in their suspension and does the transmission require a lot of shimming to get it ti work?
i felt the exact same way on my cousin's car. . But last night we were both rebuilding his car, he did the chassis and i did the shocks. When i opened up the shocks there were no shock fluid! . He claimed to have filled them up ...but i don't know . I searched a page or two back and you guys were talking about bladder caps for the tc4 and mentioned using some yokomo ones...would he have to change the actual shock caps or just can he just insert yokomo caps in the standars tc4 ones.

Also did you guys experience this kind of leaking? But it's wierd when i drove his car last sunday it was DIALED! even the announcer was saying " WOW! that car is obviosly dialed!" Not to mention it had no fluid and all different piston(but i guess that won't matter if you don't have fluid )
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Old 07-11-2005, 12:43 PM   #5494
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Well can some one explain the process of sealing the CF with the CA please? Or at least direct me to a page that describes the process in detail.
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Old 07-11-2005, 12:47 PM   #5495
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what you can do is apply a drop of CA on the edge of the CF and let the drop run down the edges, but it has to be done VERY carefully. What i did was rotate the chassis, watching that drop very carefully run down the edge of the whole chassis. hope this helps.
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Old 07-11-2005, 12:56 PM   #5496
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
Chassis are machined on CNC routing tables out of large sheets of carbon fiber. They cut the chassis, drill screw holes and counter sink them. If you want to bevel batt slots the chassis need to be flipped over by humans, resecured to the surface and the machine needs to be restarted. This takes time ands costs $$.

The "other company" that bevels chassis cuts them a few at a time on an extremely sophisticated 5 axis CNC mill. Machine time on this type of machine is much more expensive than on a routing table. Volume of work output is also much lower. This is not efficient for mass production.
Very nice insight. Read alot of your posts and must say they are well thought out and helpful along with gaining knowledge.

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Old 07-11-2005, 12:57 PM   #5497
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i just use a cotton bud (Q-tip to you guys ) and dip it in the glue and run it around the edge...you might need a few because they dry up and go hard quickly
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Old 07-11-2005, 01:00 PM   #5498
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raving-monkey
i just use a cotton bud (Q-tip to you guys ) and dip it in the glue and run it around the edge...you might need a few because they dry up and go hard quickly
that sounds easier ...i just thought the q-tip would dry to fast .
Also sanding the edges a little bit would help as well
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Old 07-11-2005, 01:04 PM   #5499
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yep, use a bit of wet and dry on the chassis edges to smooth them out, rounding them slightly also helps...i heard people using emery cloth (i think) to make the glue all shiny aswell
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Old 07-11-2005, 01:13 PM   #5500
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Well I guess all that doesnt sound too difficult. what grit sand paper should be used to round the corners and bevel the battery slots then?
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Old 07-11-2005, 01:17 PM   #5501
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use a small file to do the battery slots.

i use wet and dry (without wetting it) on the chassis edges....but a real fine sand paper should be used.
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Old 07-11-2005, 01:27 PM   #5502
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I c no one like to type in color...wonder why:

too hard
too lazy
just cant stand being different

anyways, why is the tc4 better then the tc3?? aint they the same chassis and parts??
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Old 07-11-2005, 01:36 PM   #5503
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raving-monkey
i just use a cotton bud (Q-tip to you guys ) and dip it in the glue and run it around the edge...you might need a few because they dry up and go hard quickly
This is a great method of CA'ing your chassis if your not into putting CA on the chassis corner and then letting it run down the chassis edge.

The Q-Tip method is full proof without getting CA dripping onto the chassis. Both methods work great but dripping the CA down the chassis you must be alot more careful.
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Old 07-11-2005, 01:39 PM   #5504
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To sand battery slots I use emery cloth. I put the chassis in a vise (with rubber mounts so not to scratch the chassis) and cut a strip on emery cloth about a 1 1/2 wide and about 10 inches long. I run it thru the battery slot and then pull the emery back a nd forth across the battery slot. Makes a really nice rounded edged and you can alos control the amount of angle you want to.
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Old 07-11-2005, 02:33 PM   #5505
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Just got my TC4 in the mail. Picked it up here from Pitshop. I must say im quite impressed with it. All the slop ive read about is non-existant on this car. One thing thats puzzling me is what shocks are on the car. I want to say Yokomo but im not sure, maybe someone here can shed some light on it for me.

Also just to add to what wyd is saying. be sure to wear a mask when sanding your chassis. Graphite dust is terrible for your lungs. You may want to take it a step further when using q-tips and CA. the CA will melt the cotton slightly giving off some nasty fumes that can hurt your eyes, not to mention your respitory system.
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