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Old 07-08-2005, 04:26 PM   #5446
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Originally Posted by raving-monkey
labour? it would take the CNC mills an extra 2 mins to mill a 45 deg 'bevel' on the battery slots
...and the programming & setup time, the multiple angles it would need to rotate because of the shape of the slots, etc.

Guys are getting a little nit-picky, no?
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Old 07-08-2005, 04:27 PM   #5447
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raving-monkey
labour? it would take the CNC mills an extra 2 mins to mill a 45 deg 'bevel' on the battery slots
It does cost quite a bit.. I have 5 chassis made up for a R3 Barracuda a while back and I have the battery slots beveled and it was about 25$ more per chassis to do it.... something about set up and labor ... so thats why I have a nice set of dimond files waiting for the AE chassis
-Dave
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Old 07-08-2005, 04:29 PM   #5448
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TPhalen
...and the programming & setup time, the multiple angles it would need to rotate because of the shape of the slots, etc.

Guys are getting a little nit-picky, no?
Me I don't care I just want to get my hands on a conversion chassis as soon as possible after drooling all over the One you guys had at the Reedy Race at your booth I must have one
please tell me it will be out around the same time as the FT TC4 ( fingers croosed )
-Dave
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Old 07-08-2005, 05:00 PM   #5449
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I'd be happy just getting the FTTC4 kit at this point.
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Old 07-08-2005, 05:12 PM   #5450
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TPhalen
...and the programming & setup time, the multiple angles it would need to rotate because of the shape of the slots, etc.

Guys are getting a little nit-picky, no?
nit-picky, YES...DAMN. I've owner about every car that's been made in the last eight years and not one came from the manufacturer with filed slots.
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Old 07-08-2005, 05:14 PM   #5451
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The BMI chassis not only has beveled battery slots but that all the pockets and edges came beveled also and that they were machine cut, not hand filed. The whole chassis is done like this for you all you have to do is choose to seal it, or not seal it with CA when you get it.
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Old 07-08-2005, 05:25 PM   #5452
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First of all...BMI is a chassis conversion kit, not a rolling chassis. No car manufacturer files their slots. $25 added to the price of a full kit that already $350-$400 makes a big difference to some people. Plus Jason will tell you that he doesn't do this to make money...He does this for fun. If this was his primary source of income, I guarantee you the cost would go up. You have to also understand that Jason doesn't have to pay someone to do it. He has his own equipment. It's the little extras that people like Jason add that make people buy aftermarket chassis kits.
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Old 07-08-2005, 05:33 PM   #5453
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AMERICAN MADE, thats right! In House machining, that alone to me makes me want to buy it even more than something done overseas. Anything that is done overseas does not make me a happy camper. It plain sucks, very rarely will you get a product that will turn out right 100 percent of the time. I would rather pay the extra 50 bucks if it was done in America, just to support our country with a dwindling manufacturing industry because things are being shipped overseas. It may be cheaper to produce a product overseas, but it will also turn out cheaper 95 percent of the time. You get what you pay for holds true in every aspect of life.
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Old 07-08-2005, 06:19 PM   #5454
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Quote:
Originally Posted by i_got_m8_4_$85
what the address that i send the little blue card to for the lrp esc for the warranty. ??????



is it lrp electronics, lrp costomer service or ae electronics
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Old 07-08-2005, 06:51 PM   #5455
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FTC4 Bling Bling same old crappy leaky shocks. lol
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Old 07-08-2005, 06:55 PM   #5456
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neil
FTC4 Bling Bling same old crappy leaky shocks. lol

WHAT?!?!?! leaky shocks !?!?!?!!? I NEVER had a problem with them.
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Old 07-08-2005, 07:01 PM   #5457
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You must drive on a perfectly smooth track and use 100,000 wt diff oil. Then they wouldnt leak.
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Old 07-08-2005, 07:01 PM   #5458
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ive never had my shocks leak..but their a pig to build.

once you get AE shocks built right then they are really good but until then, they are useless
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Old 07-08-2005, 07:14 PM   #5459
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neil
You must drive on a perfectly smooth track and use 100,000 wt diff oil. Then they wouldnt leak.

I drive at So Cal and the track is not that perfect, it has lots of patches and sorta rough. 100,000 wt diff oil or shock oil???????? If your talking diff oil I just use the stuff that the TC4 comes with. And shock oil I use 40wt all the way around ehh.
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Old 07-08-2005, 07:15 PM   #5460
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Never had a problem with them either. MIne work great and not hard to build either. Yok caps with the bladder or the bleed screw work great for me.
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