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Old 06-26-2005, 09:02 PM   #5056
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Originally Posted by JDM_DOHC_SiR
My best guess is that the conversion kit will be around 250$ .... not to sure about it though

-Dave

I would guess the same thing, since your paying for alot of new parts that cost alot to design.
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Old 06-26-2005, 09:13 PM   #5057
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Default Neil...

I run on a very smooth, med. grip, tight ozite carpet track. What's good for me may not be good for you. I'm using Losi rear wheel hubs centered on the pin, I'm still playing and fine tunning it. Although, it's great as it stands.

Front end I'm running two spacers rear, one up front. Rear I'm running, two rear one up front. In the rear, it seems to be ok running one in the rear, two up front. It's ok if you need more rear traction or steering.

One thing though, is that I have several fast areas on my track. You must find the compromise between the two areas of the track layout. If your track is very small with low speeds, a short wheel base may be fine. If you have a track like mine where there are tight corners and a long fast strait, you may what a med-long wheel base to give you stability on the long fast strait. You have to know how changes effect your car bottom line or this hobby gets frustrating.

I forgot to mention it has a great compromise between on/off power steering and traction. It goes into turns hard entering and I have plenty of mid and exit steering. It's great when you finally have a near perfect setup. Some say there's no such thing as a perfect setup. I beg to differ. I can't wait to balance my car and get a custom CF chassis. I'm still waiting to get my BMI Pro 4 chassis up and going. My TC4 setup should be close on my Pro 4.

Last edited by RCknight; 06-26-2005 at 09:51 PM.
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Old 06-26-2005, 09:32 PM   #5058
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RCknight
I feel your pain, but it was incorrect setup that made my car feel inconsistant. A few things I thought made the car feel inconsistant was having a short wheel base. A big, no, no with the TC4. For some reason it doesn't like it short. That may be the reason the Pro 4 doesn't have any wheel base adjustments. Another is could be too much steering ackerman. Go with the longest camber link locations and it will help make the car more stable. If your like me, you are not smooth entering corners. Shocks were another thing that made my car feel inconsistant. I went with a bladder style shock like the JRX-S ones. I also took my time building them perfect and the car just felt way better. Like I said setup is everything. If camber is off just by a 1/2-1 degree it will make the car feel inconsistant and hard to drive. Keep playing with it and think about what it's doing. Don't waste time, change it if it don't feel good. Try things you have never done or do what I did, read everthing on how adjustments affect your car. What's your car doing? What is your track like? Bumpy or smooth? What's your setp? How do you drive? A chassis won't fix anything, if you don't maximize the adjustements on your car. Let us know. Mine works great, massive corner speed, and it's consistant. I'm moving up fast with our top fastest guys at my track. Balancing the car with scales and a BMI chassis will just be the icing on the cake. A chassis will not be a "fix all" it will only help you improve an already great setup. How long have you been racing? I have a great setup if you want it. Good luck buddy.

Wow, thanks for those tips RCKnight. My TC4 was actually driving well at my latest race. Easily qualified in the A-main but blew it during the main. I've been doing R/C for almost 3 years now. So I think I know how to setup and drive these cars. The inconsistancy I'm feeling in the car is that it seems to turn more agressively in different turns. (turns right more than left on high speed turns) I checked my servo/camber/shocks/tweak. I'm running full short wheelbase in the rear and 2 shims forward, 1 shim back on the front of the car. The AE shocks don't mind me that much. I have yet to neglect my shocks for handling issues. I seem to build them fairly well with "almost" identical rebound. Camber is always checked every 2 runs to make sure it's correct. I'm running on an Ozite Carpet track that is smooth. I also check my tweak using the MIP board to make sure it's tweaked correctly. All shock lenghts are measured with calipers to ensure that their the right length. The car is actually fairly easy to drive. I've got it dialed in but just wanted to get it "perfect" I guess. There is a minor change needed somewhere. I'd figure a stiffer double-deck chassis would solve this steering inconsistancy or whatever else could be possible. I'll post my setup once I have a chance.

I hope this post doesn't confuse you.
Later RCKnight.
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Old 06-26-2005, 09:47 PM   #5059
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Default Well, you have more expirence than I.

since I have only raced a hand full of times. I guess I'm not good enough to "feel" those kind of problems. My car turns great in low and fast turns left or right and I have not even balanced it yet. Maybe the BMI will put the icing on your cake. I want to improve my driving before I take the leap. Let us know how it goes.
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Old 06-26-2005, 09:52 PM   #5060
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Default craig d. reedysetup

anybody know what set up craig d use to win the reedy race please post
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Old 06-26-2005, 09:57 PM   #5061
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Default Paul, if I understand it right....

why are you running such a short wheel base? Do you run on a micro track? Just kidding. I run on a tight track and my car was soooo squirely with a shorter wheelbase.

Last edited by RCknight; 06-26-2005 at 10:16 PM.
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Old 06-26-2005, 10:02 PM   #5062
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Will my one-way from my NTC3 work in my TC4?
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Old 06-26-2005, 11:36 PM   #5063
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neil
Will my one-way from my NTC3 work in my TC4?
from what i know it a no.
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Old 06-26-2005, 11:37 PM   #5064
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NVisible
Current TC4 owners, Are you going to:

1.) Keep your TC4 as is?
2.) Sell it and buy a FT TC4?
3.) Convert to the BMI Chassis?

Also, im sure its been asked, but is there some shimming that should be done to the shaft drive / gears?

i looking at the BMI right now if i can get a price.
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Old 06-27-2005, 12:18 AM   #5065
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Default TAZ-S

I think it's $124.99.
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Old 06-27-2005, 12:43 AM   #5066
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Default BMI Jason....

I was just wondering. Not to beat a dead horse here, but do you know if AE were able to design a lower upper deck on the TF TC4 when they went to your BMI TC3 motor mount? Also the servo question again? I have a heavy metal geared digital KO servo. I figured I would ask you, since you provided more help than the AE guys.
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Old 06-27-2005, 04:30 AM   #5067
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i used the weight of the servo to counterbalance the batteries.im not really sure where it ends up next to the tub but it was specificly placed.the chassis is the same width as the stock tub but it is narrowed from both sides of the chassis instead of only the battery side like the AE chassis.i wanted everything to be symetrical.i dont think that the top deck is very low on the FT because the top deck sits higher than the camber links from what i can tell from the pics.
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Old 06-27-2005, 06:17 AM   #5068
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RCknight
why are you running such a short wheel base? Do you run on a micro track? Just kidding. I run on a tight track and my car was soooo squirely with a shorter wheelbase.
RCKnight,

I do run on a VERY tight track and the shorter wheelbase in the rear seems to keep it more "planted".
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Old 06-27-2005, 08:52 AM   #5069
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neil
Will my one-way from my NTC3 work in my TC4?
No. The part you want is #1728.
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Old 06-27-2005, 09:01 AM   #5070
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any reason why it won't work?

their the same gear cases aren't they?
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