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Old 05-19-2005, 01:25 AM   #4621
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Mike D,

I run the short camber link location on front and rear because i'fell the car is more stable and easy to drive on carpet.

Here is my setup in Le havre:

Front:
Std ballstud, no washers, outer
Circle shims= 0
Triangle shims= 0
Arm spacing = all washers on the rear.
0.55 anti-roll bar
2 caster block
1 white plastic washer for bump steer
Shock tower mounting position N 2 (1 is the outer)
Shock A-arm mounting position N 1 (1 is the outer)
Piston = 1
Oil = 60
Spring =Silver
Ride height 5.5 mm
Droop 5.5
camber 2
Toe 0
standard ballstud on steering rack and 0 washers
Oneway.
I put 1 washers (0.8 mm) on to have 190 mm


Rear:
Std ballstud, no washers, outer
Square shims= 2
X shims= 2
Arm spacing = all washers on the front.
shock tower mounting position N 2 (1 is the outer)
Shock A-arm mounting position N 1 (1 is the outer)
Rear upright = Inner position (Std)
Piston = 1
Oil = 50
Spring =Green
Ride height 6 mm
Droop 2
camber 2
Toe 3
Metal diff (Plastics are to hot)

Body = Protoform Status 1.0 + protoform plastic wing (190 mm)

Tires SOrex 32M, Insert = GM green (Or xenon, or much more)
Wheel = Orion Hard
Traction compound = Corally Tc2.
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Old 05-19-2005, 05:58 AM   #4622
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Thanks D_Ames!
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Old 05-19-2005, 07:38 AM   #4623
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S Fender,

Its good to know the car is working well for you, personally I find it very easy to drive and it reacts well to setup changes

I m having problems with my motors overheating because some of my bearings are bad so I m looking for a whole new set of bearings at a decent price

I think 3 Racing makes some cheap ones
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Old 05-19-2005, 08:24 AM   #4624
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get some acer ceramic ones they are cheaper than ft teflon ones and are much better i put them in mine and they are silky smooth
cheers gaz
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Old 05-19-2005, 08:26 AM   #4625
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I suggest not putting ceramics in the hubs, especially the rears. Of course if you never hit anything you might be ok.

Replace everything but the hub bearings with ceramics, in the hubs use some cheap bearings so the pain isn't so bad when replacing them. Ceramics are also more fragile ..
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Old 05-19-2005, 08:59 AM   #4626
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Quote:
Originally posted by Nitro-Boy
1) Will the TC3 tuning guide work with the TC4 also, is most of it the same for tuning?
NO I have been told by many drivers (including factory drivers) to treat the TC4 as a completely different car. When the car first came out lots of people had headaches trying to make it work....because the TC3 setups dont work the same.

Treat the car like a brand new incarnation, not anouther TC3 mod

Quote:
2) If you run 4 degree caster blocks, 0 circle shims, and 2 triangle shims (thus 2 anti-dive) does your caster come out to 2 degrees?
Yes they will cancel out

Quote:
3) Is the rear X degrees not noted on any of the setup sheets? I see 2, 2.5, and 3 degrees are available but not noted to my knowledge. Whats the difference from a 2 degree to the 3 degree?
The kit comes with 3 degrees in the rear (I am assuming you are talking about rear toe in?) This gives a bit more traction in the rear end during a corner exit/entry.....

The less rear toe = less rear corner traction

Quote:
4) On the setup sheets does 1 washer refers to the AE .031-.032 plastic washers or the aluminum .029-.030 washers? Or does .001-.002 make a difference?
Not to sure what you are talking about here (no set up sheet in front of me at the moment)... but rule of thumb is that the plastic spacers are used in the arms (wheel base) and the steel washers are used in the camber/steering links.

Anouther thing to note that is not noted in the manual is that the washers (steel) come in different thicknesses. You will see a gold/silver mix in the kit. Silver is thinner while gold is thicker, these are stacked inder the ball links. Id give you exact thicknesses, but again I dont have it in front of me this moment.

Hope that helps

Try to show up with your factory settings for Carpet/asphalt...then adjust in order...
1 tires
2 springs
3 camber (degree adjust)
4 ride height
5 toe in

Once you get those down then fine tune with Droop/ Roll center/ caster.

You'll find where the TC3 was a butcher knife, the TC4 becomes a scalpel
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Old 05-19-2005, 03:58 PM   #4627
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In my opinion, never use ceramic bearing it cost to much...
I've changed my tc3 bearings with bocca bearings Ultra seals... Very good. Less slop and very reliable..
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Old 05-19-2005, 04:55 PM   #4628
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Quote:
Originally posted by S_fender
In my opinion, never use ceramic bearing it cost to much...
I've changed my tc3 bearings with bocca bearings Ultra seals... Very good. Less slop and very reliable..
Well if you don't use ceramics in the hubs, it saves alot of money. With ceramics in the diffs and drive shaft, they will likely last longer than the car, while saving weight and adding efficiency.
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Old 05-20-2005, 01:51 AM   #4629
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I highly recommend AVID bearings, they are pretty good, great service and the price is unbeatable! try avidrc.com
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Old 05-20-2005, 02:25 PM   #4630
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Default TC3/TC4 same bearings?

Do you know if the TC4 uses the same bearings as the TC3?

Cheers
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Old 05-20-2005, 03:09 PM   #4631
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Yes it does
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Old 05-20-2005, 03:11 PM   #4632
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It does
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Old 05-20-2005, 11:20 PM   #4633
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Good luck to all associated guys at the REEDY,get ur dun baker
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SpeedZone Batteries
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Old 05-21-2005, 12:54 AM   #4634
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Blackstock and Baker!!!!
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Old 05-21-2005, 05:43 PM   #4635
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Anyone see anything interesting at the AE booth at RCX?
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