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Old 04-21-2005, 04:50 AM   #4156
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Quote:
Originally posted by JDM_DOHC_SiR
You have me Joe..... I"m at a total loss
-Dave
Ok here goes.

The chassis, wishbones and hubs and drive shafts are TC3.

The diffs are Schumacher Mi2.

The diff housings are Yokomo YR4 and the motor mount and layshaft mount are for Yokomo YR4 models, made by Fastrax - I think that one is the Type J motor mount, but I have turned it back to front to put the motor ahead of the spur gear.

The 2 layshaft pulleys are modified Losi XXXS items with an RW spur gear sandwiched in between.

The belts were an absolute headache. Rear is a Schumacher CAT and SST slim belt. Front is one of the many Yokomo YR4 variants. There are 3 or 4 lengths to choose from. I think the one I used is also J Type.

I'm now plotting out the steering and going through my boxes of "rubbish" to find suitable bits. It's quite fun.
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Old 04-21-2005, 07:15 AM   #4157
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If you want to stiffen the chassis even more use a longer screw where the chassis brace screws into the chassis (I used 1" inch) this makes a big difference in rigidity.
Also try the 3 racing shock towers more rigid plus an extra mounting hole for tuning.
Saying this speaking to a sponsered Associated racer he was cutting the graphite brace (one finger say) to give the car more twist in the chassis left to right. His explination was the 415 & pro4 twist more than the TC4.
My opinnion make it rigid and let the suspension do the work twist or flex is to hard to control cosistently.
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Old 04-21-2005, 01:28 PM   #4158
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does anybody have pictuers of that forced air thing i do not understand where it mounts and how it works thanks.
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Old 04-21-2005, 02:03 PM   #4159
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I have heard rumors that Team Associated has been busy redesigning many of the TC4 parts. Anyone out there know if this is true and which parts are being looked at?

History points to this as the TC3 was released and about a year later, an upgrade factory team kit was released with several key changes (plastic diffs, droop screws, etc). Turned a great car into a world beater.
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Old 04-21-2005, 02:40 PM   #4160
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Default I just emailed them...

and I hope to get a response. I want to know if they are going to make a stiffer chassis for carpet, otherwise I'm jumping ship.

Last edited by RCknight; 04-21-2005 at 03:03 PM.
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Old 04-21-2005, 02:48 PM   #4161
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Quote:
Originally posted by i_got_m8_4_$85
does anybody have pictuers of that forced air thing i do not understand where it mounts and how it works thanks.
look under where your reciever and ESC are mounted..there are 2 triangle hole things and 2 screw holes in between the triangle holes.

the duct goes there....you mount your electrics on top of it.

the fan is screwed to this 'grill' and the grill is clamped uner the duct when you screw it down.
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Old 04-21-2005, 03:09 PM   #4162
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Default How much does inconsistent shock rebound

affect the handling? Would it be a real noticeable difference? I can never get AE shocks to all rebound the exact same.
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Old 04-21-2005, 03:12 PM   #4163
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Slight difference, maybe not, but any difference will make the car handle poorly. It's worth the time to get them equal.
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Old 04-21-2005, 03:36 PM   #4164
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To save headaches... just try and have the rebound as close as you can get in pairs. Front pair as close as you can get to each other and rear the same.
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Old 04-21-2005, 03:50 PM   #4165
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http://ebiz.netopia.com/competitionx...sis-Bottom.jpg

http://ebiz.netopia.com/competitionx...Fan-Duct-1.jpg

http://ebiz.netopia.com/competitionx...Fan-Duct-2.jpg

try these links for pics of the underside and fan to go along with the above description.
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Old 04-21-2005, 03:58 PM   #4166
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Default Anyone know the...

parts numbers for the bladder style Yokes shock caps? And, anyt other parts that I need to convert them?

I would like to go to a different shock brand. John Bull you say you use those Corally RXD shocks on your TC4? Why do you like them better than say the Yokes? Since your a Yoke fan.

I want to go to the new Losi JRX-S, but I'm not sure they will fit yet.
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Old 04-21-2005, 04:14 PM   #4167
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Quote:
Originally posted by andrewdoherty
http://ebiz.netopia.com/competitionx...sis-Bottom.jpg

http://ebiz.netopia.com/competitionx...Fan-Duct-1.jpg

http://ebiz.netopia.com/competitionx...Fan-Duct-2.jpg

try these links for pics of the underside and fan to go along with the above description.
damn you..thats the pic i was looking for (the 2nd 2 on competition x)

RCKnight....why not just get trusty tamiya shocks? i loved mine....so easy to get them the same (rebound) and they were just soooo smooth..they are definatley finding their way to my car once i have some spare cash
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Old 04-21-2005, 04:30 PM   #4168
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The Associated shocks work great. Just buy the yok bladder caps and you won't have another problem. Speedtechrc sells them. they're a lot cheaper than Tamiya shocks
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Old 04-21-2005, 04:57 PM   #4169
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Quote:
Originally posted by raving-monkey
look under where your reciever and ESC are mounted..there are 2 triangle hole things and 2 screw holes in between the triangle holes.

the duct goes there....you mount your electrics on top of it.

the fan is screwed to this 'grill' and the grill is clamped uner the duct when you screw it down.

quote:
Originally posted by andrewdoherty
http://ebiz.netopia.com/competition...ssis-Bottom.jpg

http://ebiz.netopia.com/competition.../Fan-Duct-1.jpg

http://ebiz.netopia.com/competition.../Fan-Duct-2.jpg

try these links for pics of the underside and fan to go along with the above description.



thanks guys
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Old 04-21-2005, 05:12 PM   #4170
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Default HPI's shock are super smooth, but...

I can't have purple on a blue car.
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