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Old 04-20-2005, 08:24 PM   #4141
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ok ...
front: blue springs, 40wt. oil, 4.5mm ride height, 3rd hole in on tower and inside hole on arm. steering block inner hole, inner hole on brace w/1 washer under ballstud. using 2 degree caster blocks, 1 degree camber and 0 toe w/diff. arm mount shim:2/2
rear: blue springs, 40wt. oil, 5mm ride height, 2nd hole in on tower and outside hole on arm. 2 degree toe, inside hole on rear carriers, inside hole on brace w/2 washers under ballstud. gearing set at 26/70 w/stock mtr. protoform nemesis body tamiya shocks w/3 hole pistons using yoke 1/16" thrust balls in diff.
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Old 04-20-2005, 08:24 PM   #4142
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oh yea, droop 5 in front and 4.5 in rear
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Old 04-20-2005, 08:25 PM   #4143
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shizzle ... rear arm mount shims 4/4
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Old 04-20-2005, 08:37 PM   #4144
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whoever tries my setup let me know how it worked for you, good or bad. with that setup i could drive deep into the turn and let off slowly on the throttle and it would slingshot through the corners, it was fugin' bad ass.
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Old 04-20-2005, 09:45 PM   #4145
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I went to SoCal to run my TC4. I really haven't done much at all on the on-road side with the exception of a little driving with my M18. I never got good control with the M18 on foams but off course I only tried it a couple of times.
I ask the SoCal guy what kind of tires were used for the track and bought some already mounted tires. I put them on and coated them with Paragon and went out on the track. The car was great. I was able to get around pretty well considering, certainly better than my first attempt on the off-round side. The current layout has quite a few 180 turns and so I couldn't tune down the steering range too much (I have a tendency to oversteer) but I did okay. I felt I had good control of the car. So much so it wasn't very long and I was going full throttle on the long stretch. I did eventual crash into the side wall and broke the right suspension arm. Hit it pretty hard, hard enough to bend the Lunsford titanium hinge pin. Bought the parts and 15 minutes later I was back at it. Actually I had so much fun that I might get interested in on-road racing.

P.S. As so as I was out there the SoCal guy said by the sound of my car that I have the pinion gear too tight. I back it off (a little difficult to adjust on the TC4 vs. the T4) and the sound came down quite a bit.
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Old 04-20-2005, 09:49 PM   #4146
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Default Anywhere you can get wider....

clamp wheel hexes than the AE ones? I would rather use a wider hex than shims.

Last edited by RCknight; 04-21-2005 at 12:08 AM.
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Old 04-21-2005, 01:28 AM   #4147
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i think people weren't saying the pro4 ones are wider but don't quote me on that
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Old 04-21-2005, 01:29 AM   #4148
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Quote:
Originally posted by sonic31
i don't know why, but i have this feeling that if the associated car was belt driven it would be very capable with its current suspension geometry but thats just me???
That's why I'm building this.
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Old 04-21-2005, 01:30 AM   #4149
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Quote:
Originally posted by JDM_DOHC_SiR
Post it then ... any setups for the TC4 no mater what track...will be helpfull to most on this thread
-Dave
if you say so boss

here is my setup (rubber tyres (cs22) on mid grip carpet)

front:
1 deg camber
1 deg toe in
0 deg castor block
2 tab shim under O block
0 shims under triangle block
camber link in 2nd hole from centre (on chassis brace) with 1 shim
wheelbase is standard
#2 piston
35wt oil
gold spring
5mm ride height
ball diff set to tight
shock positions : 2nd hole out from centre on tower, outer hole on wishbone
droop - 4

rear:
1 deg camber
2.5 deg toe in
no shims under either suspension block (square and X)
camber link on chassis brace : inner hole with 2 shims
camber link on hub : standard
standard wheelbase
#2 piston
30wt oil
blue spring
5.5mm ride height
shock positions : tower - 2nd from outside
wishbone - inner
droop - 3
ball diff set to medium

body - stratus3 (carpet, need a damned mazda)

tyres - cs22 premounts (dished wheels)
additive - LRP
motor - EA ROAR (27t)
gearing - 72/23
brush - reedy 767
springs - purple (+ve and -ve)
batteries in foward position
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Old 04-21-2005, 01:32 AM   #4150
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Default Re: Anywhere you can get wider....

Quote:
Originally posted by RCknight
clamp wheel hexes than the AE ones? I would rather use a wider hex than shims.
Yokomo makes ones that are about .5~.7mm wider than the AE ones.... and cost about the same... let me see if I can get that part # for you
-Dave
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Old 04-21-2005, 01:43 AM   #4151
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Quote:
Originally posted by sonic31
whoever tries my setup let me know how it worked for you, good or bad. with that setup i could drive deep into the turn and let off slowly on the throttle and it would slingshot through the corners, it was fugin' bad ass.
Your set up is very similar to what we use.

It works well, but I need to experiment some more, because I just might find something a bit better.

We use green springs - slightly softer, all round and 40 oil, but I have Corally RDX shocks on mine. I want to play with roll centre heights too.

I'll keep you all posted.

Oh by the way, this is for the TC4, not the BD3 shown in a previous post. That one isn't ready yet.

Just a quiz question for you all - especially you Dave. Can you recognise all the bits used.
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Old 04-21-2005, 01:51 AM   #4152
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Quote:
Originally posted by johnbull

Just a quiz question for you all - especially you Dave. Can you recognise all the bits used.


Hmmm do you have a different angle of some of the pic"s and I can take my best shot at it
-Dave
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Old 04-21-2005, 02:02 AM   #4153
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Try this one Dave. It's a better view of the drive train.
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Old 04-21-2005, 02:50 AM   #4154
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Quote:
Originally posted by johnbull
Try this one Dave. It's a better view of the drive train.
You have me Joe..... I"m at a total loss
-Dave
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Old 04-21-2005, 03:59 AM   #4155
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Default Dave are they Yokes clamp style?

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