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Old 03-17-2005, 03:31 AM   #3676
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but if you can scrape off 0.1 of some laps then it could move you arund in the finals.

such as, i Qed 1st in D at a recent stock race, if i was 0.3secs quicker i would of got last in the C.

and my car is bone stock except steel diffs, fan kit and a few other bits and bobs like that.

i WILL be getting the FT tc4 when it comes out as i believe it will be a whole lot better than the team tc4 that we all have now.
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Old 03-17-2005, 03:35 AM   #3677
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: 3Racing parts!

Quote:
Originally posted by JDM_DOHC_SiR
Who me Naw.... just looking to get a few of the Carbon parts or some othe r"small" alloy bits
-Dave
lol, i will be considering things like the alu sus blocks (look lighter than AE ones) but other things that aren't nessecary such as the steering rack will go a miss i think but then SSG shims look the muts nuts

not to keen on the chassis though, doesn't look as well put together as the BMI one and doesn't look as neat...yes the blue looks cool but that isn't what matters when splashing out over $100 on a chassis alone i think i will stick to the tub chassis thanks
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Old 03-17-2005, 04:46 AM   #3678
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Default I prefer the BMI Chassis

The 3racing chassis doesnt look too bad but I havent heard anything about R&D or testing, Also BMI use only the best CF and their work cant be beat. and we know they test and refine avery product before it goes to market.

just my 2cents
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Old 03-17-2005, 04:48 AM   #3679
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I've got the BMI conversion. All I can say is that the manufacturing quality is flawless, the CF is very high quality and it all comes pre-smoothed and ready to go.
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Old 03-17-2005, 01:38 PM   #3680
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Quote:
Originally posted by Andy M
I've got the BMI conversion. All I can say is that the manufacturing quality is flawless, the CF is very high quality and it all comes pre-smoothed and ready to go.
...........but how does it perform?
Did u have to make any changes from your previous set-up to make it work? Thanks
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Old 03-17-2005, 03:19 PM   #3681
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Does anyone still bother with composite driveshafts? I race stock and thought they might be a good way to loose quite a considerable ammount of rotating mass. Anyone know what their durabilty is like too?
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Old 03-17-2005, 03:47 PM   #3682
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I just recently purchased a TC 4 the problem I have with the car I think the chassis is tweeked because In order to set the tweek right I have to put so much preload on the left shock and Im taking preload away from the right shock when I put the car on the MIP Tweek station the bubble is all the way to the left in order for me to get the tweek right I have to add alot of preload the to the left shock when I run the car It handels werid It will pull to one side and spin out at high speeds if anyone can help me I would greatly appreciate it
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Old 03-17-2005, 03:54 PM   #3683
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Take all hinge pins out (outer & inner) and verify that they are not bent (roll on a flat piece of glass). Re-install pins, remove shocks, and verify that arms will fall freely when lifted up.
Measure shocks to be sure all are of the same length, compare front to fronts and rears to rears. Re-install shocks and be sure they are mounted in the same positions, when comparing the left and right rear and left and right front. Set ride height. Set car on glass again, find center of car, lift car off glass and see if both rear tires lift at the same time. Do the same for the front. If all this proves ok, then put back on tweak station, should be ok there too.
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Old 03-17-2005, 05:26 PM   #3684
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jack Smash
To get a TC4 up to speed on foams you will have to spend a little bit of dough. Full graphite kit and either alum or steel diffs, a swaybar kit, the 2.0 deg toe in block and some 4 deg caster blocks. I like Barry Bakers Novak race setup so far as my base.

On Bakers Novak setup sheet he shows a -0.060 washer under a black ballstud for the rear inner camber link. The negative sign in front of the 0.060 makes me wonder if he means to grind away 0.060 of the rear support thereby lowering the inner pivot also he calls for 3 washers under the front inner pivot link but doesn't say what thickness.
Any thoughts?
Thanks.
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Old 03-18-2005, 06:55 AM   #3685
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I think the black ballstud is a "shortty", lowering the link. The stock ballstud is not black it is silver. I would doubt that he ground the mount down. I took the shims for the ballstuds to my LHS and they hooked me up with some spares, I think they were for the B3, not sure.
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Old 03-18-2005, 08:01 AM   #3686
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I am pretty sure one washer = 0.030"

I wondered about the -0.060" as well when I looked at that setup sheet. My guess is that the inner link is lowered 0.060" when a black stud is installed. However, I have heard that some people have ground down the chassis braces to raise the roll-center even further, so I wouldn't be surprised if he ground off .06".

PS: Hey John!
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Old 03-18-2005, 08:08 AM   #3687
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Hey Bobby, C ya 2morrow!

Yeah, your probably right. The difference in studs is not .06, maybe .03, so he probably got the rest of it by grinding the brace.
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Old 03-18-2005, 11:15 AM   #3688
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anyone have problems with the steering bellcranks coming apart while running? Happened to me yesterday.... any ideas?
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Old 03-18-2005, 11:16 AM   #3689
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you mean that bit where the little spring goes?

it came apart on me in a race once, since then i just tightened it up and glued it....not had any problems.

got no servo saver but it hasn't effected anything..apart from speeded up steering a tad.
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Old 03-18-2005, 11:17 AM   #3690
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i am talking about the part with the little bushings.THe draglink part....
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