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Old 02-06-2005, 01:24 PM   #3256
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Quote:
Originally posted by Windsorguy99
The Stelleflue setup for stock on foams seems pretty good...planted off power and a very slight push on power...you may want to give it a try
Where can I get that setup ?
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Old 02-06-2005, 02:20 PM   #3257
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Quote:
Originally posted by Chazz
I saw your car today andy, it looked really good. Like andy said the tc4s were just taking over 19T. Wish i had run my tc4 today, had a rubbish day with my tc3 qualified 6th in the C except for the top 20 i usually aim for .

Chazz
Cheers Chazz! New Dodge 3.0 and everything lol

Today was my personal best, annoyingly enough my final time would have put me into the A which I was tenths inches away from for most of the day. Ah well there is always round 6

Andy
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Old 02-06-2005, 02:28 PM   #3258
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2005 Novak race

That's the lnk to the team associated setups page so if there are other track/tire combinations you can check out those setups too
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Old 02-07-2005, 04:38 AM   #3259
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Hy guys,

I broke my front shock tower! after a crash at high speed

Going to buy a couple and one IRS diff

This is my question:
-Does the front diff breaks more easily than the rear?, I want to be sure I use the irs diff where the car needs it the most.

Thank you! hope you all had a good racing W-E!!

See you later!

Will
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Old 02-07-2005, 05:49 AM   #3260
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Default I'm told you only need a steel diff up...

front and you can use the plastic one in the rear.
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Old 02-07-2005, 06:04 AM   #3261
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I use the lightened steel on the front, and plastic on the rear running 19T.

I have only damaged one rear outdrive and the only reason was I side swiped the wall fairly hard (ruined hub bearing, broken hub carrier) which caused the dogbone to pop out and chew up the outside of the outdrive.

I would have bought the IRS outdrives, but for the price and my ability I felt they were unneccessary.
Oh yeah, do NOT use them with the stock pincushions, they will wear the IRS drives out in no time. If you use the IRS outdrives, get the IRS pincushions.
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Old 02-07-2005, 10:10 PM   #3262
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When I was doing the graphite parts conversion, I weighed everything and came up with these weights (in grams)

Part, Graphite, Plastic, Weight loss

Chassis , 130.8 , 155.5 , 24.7
Battery Strap, 10.6 , 12.6 , 2.0
Rear Shock Tower, 6.6 , 8.0 , 1.4
Front Shock Tower, 4.8 , 5.7 , .9
Front Arms (2), 11.9 , 14.2 , 2.4
Rear Arms (2), 12.3 , 14.4 , 2.1
Chassis Brace (4), 14.1 , 16.7 , 2.6
Rear Hub Carrier (2), 5.4 , 6.7 , 1.3
Front Hub Carrier (2), 6.5 , 7.9 , 1.4

Total Loss, 38.8

Lunsford Ti Hingepins (all) 6.1g - Stock steel 10.7g - loss 4.6g

I've now got the ready to run weight down to 1545g - not too bad considering I've got an old heavy speed control in there.
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Old 02-07-2005, 11:24 PM   #3263
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The others are right that the rear plastic outdrives will hold up way better than the front, but usually when you run mod or even a "very fast" 19 turn, you will want the added security of the IRS aluminum, or at least the lightened steel outdrives in the rear of the car also........ even if the plastic dosn't physicaly break on the outside, the deflection (distortion of the mating surfaces) of the plastic under torque can cause the diff to slip during your run, which inturn generates heat that will cause more slipping, and commonly fuse the diff rings to the plastic outdrives......had it happen a million times in 19 turn and especially in mod.......plus, more than just added strength, the IRS aluminum, or the lightned steel ones, are able to handle a looser, smoother setting without any slippage..........no reason not to have 'em
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Old 02-08-2005, 02:04 AM   #3264
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Quote:
Originally posted by Corner Weight
When I was doing the graphite parts conversion, I weighed everything and came up with these weights (in grams)

Part, Graphite, Plastic, Weight loss

Chassis , 130.8 , 155.5 , 24.7
Battery Strap, 10.6 , 12.6 , 2.0
Rear Shock Tower, 6.6 , 8.0 , 1.4
Front Shock Tower, 4.8 , 5.7 , .9
Front Arms (2), 11.9 , 14.2 , 2.4
Rear Arms (2), 12.3 , 14.4 , 2.1
Chassis Brace (4), 14.1 , 16.7 , 2.6
Rear Hub Carrier (2), 5.4 , 6.7 , 1.3
Front Hub Carrier (2), 6.5 , 7.9 , 1.4

Total Loss, 38.8

Lunsford Ti Hingepins (all) 6.1g - Stock steel 10.7g - loss 4.6g

I've now got the ready to run weight down to 1545g - not too bad considering I've got an old heavy speed control in there.
Nice conversion there
I did the same thing when I went to the Carbon chassis stuff
but I was able to loss 15 grams from the Chassis and the Battery strap after milling matterial away from thm..
I`ll post some more pic`s tommorow
-Dave
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Old 02-08-2005, 05:37 AM   #3265
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-Dave

What about the hole under the motor. Couldnt you enlarge it and shave a little weight? I remember people doing it on the old car. Ive also read that people are moving the batteries further in yet. I think we can figure out a few places to get this car on a diet.
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Old 02-08-2005, 05:37 AM   #3266
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Jdm- if u dont mind can u send me pics of it to my email(milled/lighten chassis)i did mine yesterday in a machine shop!!!

reedymvp@yahoo.com
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Old 02-08-2005, 05:48 AM   #3267
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Quote:
Originally posted by Tbevofreak

This is my question:
-Does the front diff breaks more easily than the rear?, I want to be sure I use the irs diff where the car needs it the most.

The simple answer is yes. I have never broken a rear diff and have snapped many front plastic diffs and even a spool once. I run an IRS front diff and a plastic rear diff and the combo has held up well.
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Old 02-08-2005, 12:36 PM   #3268
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Default shimming

Hi guys,
Just shimming the steering rack out, but I haven't got a clue where to actually put the shimms to remove some of the slop. Could anyone ie me any pointers??

Cheers
Crash
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Old 02-08-2005, 12:38 PM   #3269
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On the top side of the bearings that the rack swings on.
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Old 02-08-2005, 01:22 PM   #3270
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Real quick.........

Any one have a date for the FT kit's release?

Thanks, Mike
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