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Old 02-03-2005, 03:34 PM   #3166
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Quote:
Originally posted by Tbevofreak
Guys, do you need to buy the steel diff assembly when using the lightened steel outdrives?
Or can you just use the stock assembly with it?

Thanks!!
yes the diff rings and the nut are different.

I've also removed the shims in the input shaft and one on the diff on the gear side, it's quite free now.

TBEVOFREAK, do you use Corally plugs?? it seems that it is needed to Dremel the chassis a bit to make them fit...
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Old 02-03-2005, 03:57 PM   #3167
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I mounted my Corally plugs on battery bars and it works great
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Old 02-03-2005, 04:01 PM   #3168
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Quote:
Originally posted by Windsorguy99
I mounted my Corally plugs on battery bars and it works great
Do you buy some special battery bars or do you bend them yourself, I saw MuchMore makes some.
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Old 02-03-2005, 04:03 PM   #3169
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Utieh,
yes I use Corally plugs but I re-soldered the plugs higher on the batteries so it would fit.
You can trim the chassis also but I think its easier to solder the plugs in a different way.

Me also I took out one shim out of each diff and its much better!

Did you take out all the shims off the shaft?

See you!
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Old 02-03-2005, 04:18 PM   #3170
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Yes I removed first one shim from the diff, then the one from the input shaft and finally both of them, at least now I can get 3 second of spin, driving the car will do the rest, I was just afraid to remove too much shims, I used to break a lot of oneway gears on my SD because they were to much back lash with the oneway diff in the gear case...
you should remove each shim one after another and see what happens.
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Old 02-03-2005, 05:03 PM   #3171
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Quote:
Originally posted by utieh
I didn't even finish to build it...everything is done but lie you the drivetrain doesn't spin more than a second, had tried different shimming, removed the grease out of the bearingbut it's not really free, I found a way to mount a Mabuchi with some thick shims, I will break in the transmission tomorrow.
Unfortunately I'm working the whole week end so I won't be able to try it this week, maybe next week end
. . .

Mine spun for 5-10 out of the box with no changes. If yours isn't, you did something wrong.
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Last edited by Boomer; 02-04-2005 at 12:46 AM.
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Old 02-03-2005, 06:08 PM   #3172
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lie = like
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Old 02-04-2005, 12:46 AM   #3173
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ahhhh - color me an idiot - editing my post. . .
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Old 02-04-2005, 12:57 AM   #3174
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Are the shock towers easy to break on TC4? both regular and graphite.
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Old 02-04-2005, 12:59 AM   #3175
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No... I've yet to break a shock tower.
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Old 02-04-2005, 01:03 AM   #3176
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Quote:
Originally posted by Boomer
. . .

Mine spun for 5-10 out of the box with no changes. If yours isn't, you did something wrong.
Your smile is a little bit suspicious on your avatar, are you sure with the stock shimming it spun for 5-10s??

I can probably get 4-5sec now, but after removing almost all the shims...

The stock plastic shock towers are a little bit flexy, but I never heard about breaking them.
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Old 02-04-2005, 01:18 AM   #3177
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Default Anyone have the BMI upper deck....

for the tub chassis? If so how does it work?
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Old 02-04-2005, 01:59 AM   #3178
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Quote:
Originally posted by runnin rc10
What do you mean even with the board. Wouldnt this mean that the wheels wouldnt have already been touching it? I would thing that with no droop/limiting in the suspension that with the shocks fully extended that they would already touch the ground. Why did these cars have to incorporate this adj. it only makes for my headaches!
I Screw both sides screws in until both wheels are off the board then drop them down till they are just touching with the board evenly.
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Old 02-04-2005, 03:55 AM   #3179
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Quote:
Mine spun for 5-10 out of the box with no changes. If yours isn't, you did something wrong.
I agree with utieh, I wonder how you got 5-10 secs of free spin?

I only removed some shims on the diffs and it spins for 2-3 secs
I'm tired of all this free drivetrain thing, I'll just run the car a coule of times and it should do the job

But I have to admit, I'd love to have a drivetrain that spins for 5-10 secs I sould've bought a PRO4!

Sock towers shouldn't break unless big crash


Cheers!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 02-04-2005, 05:18 AM   #3180
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I had 1-2 secs free spin, until I removed a few shims now up to 2-3 secs, I suppose if I hooked up the dremel to the back wheel I could get it to spin for at least 5-10 secs...


Break the car in TB, and heh don't judge a car based on free spin.

I've seen people break the plastic and carbon shock towers (rear anyways) usually just after flipping the car and hitting the end boards at the end of the straight. (so hitting the boards with the top of the car)

My car is going great and my driving is progressing nicely, now I just need to find a bit more steering at high speed power on, and a bit less steering at low speed power off...
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