Team Associated TC4
#3137
BAUDLER!!!
Hey, quit lurking in the corner...
How are things down south, say Hi to Ferrrrrrnando for me
Greg
How are things down south, say Hi to Ferrrrrrnando for me
Greg
#3138
Re: drivetrain
Originally posted by Tbevofreak
Thanks guys for taking time to answer!
OK, so I've finished my kit completly now and I found the drivetrain train too tight
I ran a motor in it for about half an hour but didn't make much difference
I can't spin the drivetrain free at all even with fairly heavy wheels on it doesn't spin 1 second ! I feels smooth but its just not free at all....
Do you think this is normal?
There"s a very little noise coming out from the gear boxes, I wonder if the mesh isn't too tight?
Do you think I sould change the shimming of the gears and try and make it more free?
Hope you guys can still help me on this, feeling a bit depressed right now
Guys, you've been a great help! Please continue
See ya!!
Thanks guys for taking time to answer!
OK, so I've finished my kit completly now and I found the drivetrain train too tight
I ran a motor in it for about half an hour but didn't make much difference
I can't spin the drivetrain free at all even with fairly heavy wheels on it doesn't spin 1 second ! I feels smooth but its just not free at all....
Do you think this is normal?
There"s a very little noise coming out from the gear boxes, I wonder if the mesh isn't too tight?
Do you think I sould change the shimming of the gears and try and make it more free?
Hope you guys can still help me on this, feeling a bit depressed right now
Guys, you've been a great help! Please continue
See ya!!
did you clean all of the grease out of your bearings? that would slow down the drive train too...
hope this helps
#3139
Tech Elite
iTrader: (5)
My car was smooth but not very free after building. I reshimmed it and that made a huge difference. You have to be patient and make your changes one shim at a time. Remove the drive shaft so that you can tell which end of the car is causing drag and work on each end seperately. Also, check that your rear wheels are not rubbing against the hubs.
#3140
Tech Adept
Yes I do have the shims on the outdrives, behind the bearings
I'll try taking them out and see how it feels, maybe is should put two shims on one side to loosen the gear mesh, or maybe taking one off will do......I guess I just have to play around with it..
Cheers!!
I'll try taking them out and see how it feels, maybe is should put two shims on one side to loosen the gear mesh, or maybe taking one off will do......I guess I just have to play around with it..
Cheers!!
#3142
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
Re: drivetrain
Originally posted by Tbevofreak
Thanks guys for taking time to answer!
OK, so I've finished my kit completly now and I found the drivetrain train too tight
I ran a motor in it for about half an hour but didn't make much difference
I can't spin the drivetrain free at all even with fairly heavy wheels on it doesn't spin 1 second ! I feels smooth but its just not free at all....
Do you think this is normal?
There"s a very little noise coming out from the gear boxes, I wonder if the mesh isn't too tight?
Do you think I sould change the shimming of the gears and try and make it more free?
Hope you guys can still help me on this, feeling a bit depressed right now
Guys, you've been a great help! Please continue
See ya!!
Thanks guys for taking time to answer!
OK, so I've finished my kit completly now and I found the drivetrain train too tight
I ran a motor in it for about half an hour but didn't make much difference
I can't spin the drivetrain free at all even with fairly heavy wheels on it doesn't spin 1 second ! I feels smooth but its just not free at all....
Do you think this is normal?
There"s a very little noise coming out from the gear boxes, I wonder if the mesh isn't too tight?
Do you think I sould change the shimming of the gears and try and make it more free?
Hope you guys can still help me on this, feeling a bit depressed right now
Guys, you've been a great help! Please continue
See ya!!
Disassemble the car and re-shim as per instructions. Also be sure to cut ANY and ALL flashing away from gears, openings, etc.
Also...de-grease your bearings and it should spin quite a bit. Once you run it it should be even better. However any spin past about 5 seconds with wheels on makes no difference.
#3144
Is it possible to mount a Mabuchi on the TC4 by adding some shims between the motor can and the mount? the bushing housing of the Mabuchi is too big for the motor cam.
Actually I would like to break in the transmission and I only have mod motors for this.
Thanks.
Gilles
Actually I would like to break in the transmission and I only have mod motors for this.
Thanks.
Gilles
#3145
Bore out the motor cam to fit the Mabuchi motor, or use a dedicated motor cam off the Yokomo CGM.
The CGM motor cam fits on the TC4. It's not a perfect fit and I wouldn't race it that way, but it will fit well enough to use the motor for breaking in parts. I have just been doing that myself.
The TC3/4 motor cam requires slight modification to fit on the CGM, but I have used one on my CGM regularly.
As far as price is concerned, the CGM item costs less than half what the AE item costs, so you may consider that too. In fact since there is such a price difference I will be trying to modify CGM motor cams to run on TC3/4s in future.
The CGM motor cam fits on the TC4. It's not a perfect fit and I wouldn't race it that way, but it will fit well enough to use the motor for breaking in parts. I have just been doing that myself.
The TC3/4 motor cam requires slight modification to fit on the CGM, but I have used one on my CGM regularly.
As far as price is concerned, the CGM item costs less than half what the AE item costs, so you may consider that too. In fact since there is such a price difference I will be trying to modify CGM motor cams to run on TC3/4s in future.
#3146
Tech Adept
You didn't take your time and build it right if you did it in one day.
I think I"ll check the gears to see if they need more cuting, cos I've already cut most of it but maybe it needs more to take out
What do you think the best upgrades are for the TC4?
I'm definetly going to buy some steel outdrives but are the light ones better? cos they're only like 5$ more?
Thanks!
#3147
Originally posted by Tbevofreak
What do you think the best upgrades are for the TC4?
I'm definetly going to buy some steel outdrives but are the light ones better? cos they're only like 5$ more?
Thanks! [/B]
What do you think the best upgrades are for the TC4?
I'm definetly going to buy some steel outdrives but are the light ones better? cos they're only like 5$ more?
Thanks! [/B]
As for the steel diffs vs light steel, they are both still heavy. I would reccommend the IRS aluminum diffs and IRS pin cushions. Not much heavier then the plastic kit ones and very durable.
IRS Aluminum Diff: IRS140
IRS Pin Cushions: IRS147
Hope this helps,
#3148
Tech Regular
I got a few seconds free spin right out of the box. I flushed the bearings and left one seal off all of them and thats it. I also shimmed per the instructions.
I weighed my car last night, now bear in mind I have a heavy front bumper, and lightened steel outdrives in the front. With a heavy body (drywall tape and shoo goo reinforcing as its a beater/practice body) it came to 1639g heh, (rubber tires) oh and with IB cells in it and no bling.
I was going to buy the aluminum outdrives, until I was told they wear, the track stocks the outdrives but not the pin cushions. A friend with the same car put the IRS outdrives in the rear of his car 3 weeks ago, and they are seriously worn wear the AE pins ride in the cups. After seeing that I am glad I went with lightened steel. I am curious to though how they wear with the irs pin cushions.
Track owner saw I had some brand new 3600IB cells last night and traded me a brand new matched (1.185) Orion pack for one of my unmatched IB packs, I made him assemble the new pack for me of course +)
I weighed my car last night, now bear in mind I have a heavy front bumper, and lightened steel outdrives in the front. With a heavy body (drywall tape and shoo goo reinforcing as its a beater/practice body) it came to 1639g heh, (rubber tires) oh and with IB cells in it and no bling.
I was going to buy the aluminum outdrives, until I was told they wear, the track stocks the outdrives but not the pin cushions. A friend with the same car put the IRS outdrives in the rear of his car 3 weeks ago, and they are seriously worn wear the AE pins ride in the cups. After seeing that I am glad I went with lightened steel. I am curious to though how they wear with the irs pin cushions.
Track owner saw I had some brand new 3600IB cells last night and traded me a brand new matched (1.185) Orion pack for one of my unmatched IB packs, I made him assemble the new pack for me of course +)
#3149
The IRS aluminum diffs with the pin cushions wear awesome. They will last you along time this way.
Later,
Later,
#3150
Originally posted by Speedie
I always set my droop last. I back out the droop screws a couple of turns first and set my ride height. Then I put it on scales and set the tweak. Then I use two identical ride height gagues to hold up each end of the car evenly at over ride height measurement. I then set the screws so the tires are even with the setup board. I stay between 1mm-2mm in front and 2mm-5mm in the rear. Running on carpet.
I always set my droop last. I back out the droop screws a couple of turns first and set my ride height. Then I put it on scales and set the tweak. Then I use two identical ride height gagues to hold up each end of the car evenly at over ride height measurement. I then set the screws so the tires are even with the setup board. I stay between 1mm-2mm in front and 2mm-5mm in the rear. Running on carpet.