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Old 02-02-2005, 04:06 PM   #3136
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do you have the shims on the outdrives on ? do you put some shims on the 2 bearing where the drive shaft go's ? i dont have shims anywhere !
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Old 02-02-2005, 04:13 PM   #3137
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Old 02-02-2005, 04:17 PM   #3138
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Default Re: drivetrain

Quote:
Originally posted by Tbevofreak
Thanks guys for taking time to answer!

OK, so I've finished my kit completly now and I found the drivetrain train too tight

I ran a motor in it for about half an hour but didn't make much difference
I can't spin the drivetrain free at all even with fairly heavy wheels on it doesn't spin 1 second ! I feels smooth but its just not free at all....

Do you think this is normal?
There"s a very little noise coming out from the gear boxes, I wonder if the mesh isn't too tight?
Do you think I sould change the shimming of the gears and try and make it more free?

Hope you guys can still help me on this, feeling a bit depressed right now

Guys, you've been a great help! Please continue

See ya!!
my drive train didn't spin all that great when i first built my car either. it didn't free up untill i took it out on the track and ran it a couple of times.

did you clean all of the grease out of your bearings? that would slow down the drive train too...

hope this helps
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Old 02-02-2005, 04:26 PM   #3139
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My car was smooth but not very free after building. I reshimmed it and that made a huge difference. You have to be patient and make your changes one shim at a time. Remove the drive shaft so that you can tell which end of the car is causing drag and work on each end seperately. Also, check that your rear wheels are not rubbing against the hubs.
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Old 02-02-2005, 04:53 PM   #3140
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Yes I do have the shims on the outdrives, behind the bearings

I'll try taking them out and see how it feels, maybe is should put two shims on one side to loosen the gear mesh, or maybe taking one off will do......I guess I just have to play around with it..


Cheers!!
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Old 02-02-2005, 05:51 PM   #3141
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If I remember correctly, the instructions have you put three shims behing the bevel gear. I have had five TC3's and have two TC4's...that was too many on all of them. I never use more than two. Sometimes only one.
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Old 02-02-2005, 06:33 PM   #3142
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Default Re: drivetrain

Quote:
Originally posted by Tbevofreak
Thanks guys for taking time to answer!

OK, so I've finished my kit completly now and I found the drivetrain train too tight

I ran a motor in it for about half an hour but didn't make much difference
I can't spin the drivetrain free at all even with fairly heavy wheels on it doesn't spin 1 second ! I feels smooth but its just not free at all....

Do you think this is normal?
There"s a very little noise coming out from the gear boxes, I wonder if the mesh isn't too tight?
Do you think I sould change the shimming of the gears and try and make it more free?

Hope you guys can still help me on this, feeling a bit depressed right now

Guys, you've been a great help! Please continue

See ya!!
You didn't take your time and build it right if you did it in one day.

Disassemble the car and re-shim as per instructions. Also be sure to cut ANY and ALL flashing away from gears, openings, etc.

Also...de-grease your bearings and it should spin quite a bit. Once you run it it should be even better. However any spin past about 5 seconds with wheels on makes no difference.
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Old 02-02-2005, 07:14 PM   #3143
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Soviet is right about the flashing. The flashing on the backside of the bevel gear spaced out my gear enough to cause a lot of binding. Removing it really freed things up
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Old 02-03-2005, 01:09 AM   #3144
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Is it possible to mount a Mabuchi on the TC4 by adding some shims between the motor can and the mount? the bushing housing of the Mabuchi is too big for the motor cam.
Actually I would like to break in the transmission and I only have mod motors for this.
Thanks.

Gilles
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Old 02-03-2005, 01:44 AM   #3145
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Bore out the motor cam to fit the Mabuchi motor, or use a dedicated motor cam off the Yokomo CGM.

The CGM motor cam fits on the TC4. It's not a perfect fit and I wouldn't race it that way, but it will fit well enough to use the motor for breaking in parts. I have just been doing that myself.

The TC3/4 motor cam requires slight modification to fit on the CGM, but I have used one on my CGM regularly.

As far as price is concerned, the CGM item costs less than half what the AE item costs, so you may consider that too. In fact since there is such a price difference I will be trying to modify CGM motor cams to run on TC3/4s in future.
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Old 02-03-2005, 06:02 AM   #3146
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Quote:
You didn't take your time and build it right if you did it in one day.
I didn't build in one day! I took me 2 days two build it and the electronics aren't in it yet

I think I"ll check the gears to see if they need more cuting, cos I've already cut most of it but maybe it needs more to take out

What do you think the best upgrades are for the TC4?

I'm definetly going to buy some steel outdrives but are the light ones better? cos they're only like 5$ more?

Thanks!
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Old 02-03-2005, 06:23 AM   #3147
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Quote:
Originally posted by Tbevofreak

What do you think the best upgrades are for the TC4?

I'm definetly going to buy some steel outdrives but are the light ones better? cos they're only like 5$ more?

Thanks! [/B]
As for upgrades, Carbon Fiber Kit, Sway Bars and Spring Kit. That should be about it.

As for the steel diffs vs light steel, they are both still heavy. I would reccommend the IRS aluminum diffs and IRS pin cushions. Not much heavier then the plastic kit ones and very durable.

IRS Aluminum Diff: IRS140
IRS Pin Cushions: IRS147

Hope this helps,
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Old 02-03-2005, 06:31 AM   #3148
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I got a few seconds free spin right out of the box. I flushed the bearings and left one seal off all of them and thats it. I also shimmed per the instructions.

I weighed my car last night, now bear in mind I have a heavy front bumper, and lightened steel outdrives in the front. With a heavy body (drywall tape and shoo goo reinforcing as its a beater/practice body) it came to 1639g heh, (rubber tires) oh and with IB cells in it and no bling.

I was going to buy the aluminum outdrives, until I was told they wear, the track stocks the outdrives but not the pin cushions. A friend with the same car put the IRS outdrives in the rear of his car 3 weeks ago, and they are seriously worn wear the AE pins ride in the cups. After seeing that I am glad I went with lightened steel. I am curious to though how they wear with the irs pin cushions.

Track owner saw I had some brand new 3600IB cells last night and traded me a brand new matched (1.185) Orion pack for one of my unmatched IB packs, I made him assemble the new pack for me of course +)
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Old 02-03-2005, 06:37 AM   #3149
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The IRS aluminum diffs with the pin cushions wear awesome. They will last you along time this way.

Later,
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Old 02-03-2005, 06:52 AM   #3150
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Quote:
Originally posted by Speedie
I always set my droop last. I back out the droop screws a couple of turns first and set my ride height. Then I put it on scales and set the tweak. Then I use two identical ride height gagues to hold up each end of the car evenly at over ride height measurement. I then set the screws so the tires are even with the setup board. I stay between 1mm-2mm in front and 2mm-5mm in the rear. Running on carpet.
What do you mean even with the board. Wouldnt this mean that the wheels wouldnt have already been touching it? I would thing that with no droop/limiting in the suspension that with the shocks fully extended that they would already touch the ground. Why did these cars have to incorporate this adj. it only makes for my headaches!
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