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Old 02-01-2005, 01:09 PM   #3106
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i doubt my local hobby shop sells them they really dont stock up on yokomo parts but ill will ask. how much are they and what part number ?
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Old 02-01-2005, 01:10 PM   #3107
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Originally posted by JWATT
Got a part number for those caps? Approx. cost?
the part number is YS - 8D. they are about 10 bucks for a set of 2 caps. if you change to the yokomo bladder caps, you need to take out the little sponge in the shock. the directions that come with them tell you how to build the shocks.
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Old 02-01-2005, 01:12 PM   #3108
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Quote:
Originally posted by LoSi xXx S
i doubt my local hobby shop sells them they really dont stock up on yokomo parts but ill will ask. how much are they and what part number ?
if you lhs has any yokomo parts at all, they should be able to get the bladder caps. they make the shocks way easier to build and way more consistant!
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Old 02-01-2005, 05:13 PM   #3109
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Quote:
Originally posted by Tbevofreak
Hi everyone!!

Just received my kit!! I should start building it this evening

Hope the kit comes with the updated gears, is there a way to find out if the gears aren't too thick before running the car?

I've been thru some much trouble with my evo3 SL hope the TC4 won't put me off shaft driven cars!!

See you!
Shaft drive simply has inherent advantages over belt designs.

Take your time building it. Trim the parts that need to be trimmed. (remember..it IS still considered a model)

Then get some good starting setups and PRACTICE PRACTICE PRACTICE.

I keep a 3-Ring binder with loose-leaf paper and blank setup sheets with holes punched in them. I then go to the track or suitable surface, and throw down some laps. Taking notes and making only one change at a time.

Do all of this and you'll be unstoppable.
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Old 02-01-2005, 07:17 PM   #3110
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Default what going to be the setup for stock/ at the snowbirds

what a going to be the setup to go with wth the tc4 at the birds like to know
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Old 02-01-2005, 09:33 PM   #3111
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Unhappy tamiya shocks

Losi XXXS, the tamiya shocks, are silky smooth, but have to be rebuilt about twice as quick. The flourine coating on the shock shafts wear off really quick, so unfortunatly, you end up replacing most of the shock to keep them that smooth.
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Old 02-02-2005, 02:15 AM   #3112
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Default Anyone here...

have any up date info on the BMI upper deck chassis? How is it working and does it have any advantages?
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Old 02-02-2005, 08:37 AM   #3113
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Check you ride height first. See if your chassis is touching the ground. That will cause the behavior you are talking about. Also, too little droop will cause it as well.

On you setup, be careful using the 6 degree c-hubs if you are using any dive at all (more shims in front than rear). As dive adds caster as well, so you could be running 7-10 degrees of caster instead of 6 as you thought. I use 0 caster and 3 degrees of dive in my setup previously posted.

While I'm not a Factory Driver, I do have alot of experience with the TCX paltform. Good enough to be a ROAR A-main finalist at least. Feel free to ask me questions about setups on high-bite foam and I'll try to answer them as best I can. [/B]
Ok cool, I'll let you know what happened. The first heat the car just felt slow and sluggish. I got off the stand and realized that in my mad rush I had forgot to readjust the ride height. So I fixed that and tried to ignore all that gummy stuff on the bottom of the chassis. In the second heat the car got a littel tweaked when I hit a board kinda hard. I pulled over and re-adjusted my servo and had the faster car on the track by like half a second. I was flying. We got to the mains and when I set the car down... and drove it it was like doing 360's every time I turned. Ive had this happen before and just thought it may be the new traction compound having to soak in. (normmaly works) But as the bell goes of the car wips around 180* every time I turn left. So Im just all screwed up. But I remember that I had checked my ride height on a piece of plexi glass and as checked that after the main, the thing was on a incline and not straight at all.

But my real question is, if your running 0* blocks and use 3shims under the "rear" front pivot block. Wouldnt that give -3* caster? This is how I ran my car when I first had it and I like it, it was just trying to free up that rear that sucked. I just get really confused about adjustments and what they do on a on-road car. Im still learnin. Thanks. Sorry for the long post.
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Old 02-02-2005, 09:28 AM   #3114
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Never run negative caster. That will cause the car to do all kinds of strange things and make it handle really inconsistent. It will try to push the outside of the front tire into the track and try to make the rest of the tire roll over it. If the track had enough bite it would be instant traction roll.

Caster causes a self centering of the front wheels, always trying to keep the car in a straight line. Negative caster will do the opposite. Once the wheel gets slightly past center, the negative caster will try to make the tire turn more and more, and the further past center the tire is, the more the torque that is required to straighten the tire back out.

Unless you have a really high torque servo, it is probably struggling to straighten the car back out and probably also flexing the servo saver, making the rear end of the car snap around on you.
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Old 02-02-2005, 09:41 AM   #3115
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Hi everyone,

Just about to finish building my kit, looks neat, I find it easy to build and the parts fit in nicely I thought.

The drivetrain is smooth but I feel its a bit tight, not very free, there's no way it will spin free even with heavy wheels on, I guess it needs to be broken-in, I think I'll put a motor in it and leave it to run for half an hour and see how it feels after.

I left the bearings soak in break cleaning spray as they come packed full of grease, wonder why.?.grease and bearings that's no good...

Won't be able to try it today my batteries have to be re-soldered cos they won't fit, the female plugs are in the way

I"m a little anxious about the diffs, not sure if they're too tight or too loose, how do you guys setup your diffs?

Will they brake very quickly since I'm running mod?

Cheers, se ya!!
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Old 02-02-2005, 09:49 AM   #3116
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I"m a little anxious about the diffs, not sure if they're too tight or too loose, how do you guys setup your diffs?

Front diff should be a little tighter than back. Neither should slip. I check my diffs (out of cases), by holding each outdrive and try to turn the diff gear. You should not be able to turn it. I then take the diff, chuck an old dogbone in a drill, insert it in one diff half, secure the other side from turning, start the drill, and break the diff in. I do this for both sides of the diff halves. Then re-check to be sure that I still can't turn the diff gear while the diff halves are held from turning (I have a tool for this, or you can put a hex tool in each slot of the diff halves to stop it from turning.

Hope this helps.
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Old 02-02-2005, 09:53 AM   #3117
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i run 19t and i run a spool but when i use a diff i run tight up front and loose in the back .

and what do you mean would they brake easy? do you mean the gear or the outdrives?
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Old 02-02-2005, 10:13 AM   #3118
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I meant the outdrives, I read they brake when using mod motor.

Thanks for the help I'll try it out!!!
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Old 02-02-2005, 10:24 AM   #3119
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oh yea they brake like its nothing try buying some irs or hardcore racing outdrives for the front only i dont think you would need them for the rear cause i dont have them and the rear and run 19t and hit crap all the time and havent broken them but just the fronts .
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Old 02-02-2005, 10:25 AM   #3120
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The outdrives break easy if you run stock. The dogbone on the right side is not deep enough in the drive cup. If you look at both sides of the diff the left dogbone is farther in than the right. On a TC3 they are even. I never ran a steel diff on my TC3. On my TC4 I was breaking the right drive cup almost every race. So I run the steel one now. Oh yeah plastic in the rear is fine.
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