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Old 01-27-2005, 07:37 AM   #2971
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Personally I think the biggest upgrade to a graphite plate style chassis is the weight savings over the original car or even the car on the carbon fiber upgrade kit.

I was at a ROAR race last weekend and they didn't even bother weighing mine, it's a pig.

There might be some stiffing of the chassis for carpet as well, but I don't personally think you need a stiffer chassis than the carbon upgraded chassis. Now the shock towers are a different story...

I saw Skidmore running Carbon fiber backplates on his towers to stop the flexing of them (hand made by him, of course).

I see that (and the steering slop) as the two things that they probably need to look at next.

**If anyone has a pic of how they fixed their slop, if you could post it, that would be great...I have looked at the explanations and tried them, but no luck with the side to side slop in the rack)
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Old 01-27-2005, 07:42 AM   #2972
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To save money you can buy a second set of the plastic arm mount blocks and swap the circle for the square in the rear to get approx 2 deg rr toe (lighter as well)
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Old 01-27-2005, 10:12 AM   #2973
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most of the side to side slop in the steering is because there is a little up and down play on the steering rack because the steering bellcrank post that holds the steering rack down are a hair to long.
There are a couple of ways to correct this.
1st is to use a dremel on the post and remove just a tiny amount so it will be tighter on the bearing. Be careful because if you remove to much the post will be to tight on the bearings and bind the steering rack.
2nd is the best way in my opinion and thats to use one 3/16 spacer (the 3/16th axle shims that come in the cvd kits work great asoc part #7368) on each bellcrank post and this will eliminate most if not all of the slop.

Jim

Last edited by Jmccormick; 01-27-2005 at 10:43 AM.
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Old 01-27-2005, 10:23 AM   #2974
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For the side to side steering slop you mentioned, i put a shock oring over the ball stud on the rack and the steering block ball stud. this tightened it up alot and took 99% of the slop out of the steering system.

Hope this helps

Dave
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Old 01-27-2005, 01:18 PM   #2975
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Helps to do both.

The o-ring takes out the ball-stud slop.

But doesn't help the bellcrank pivots which are a few hundreds or thousandths too long - these you need to file down or shim the other portions. . .
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Old 01-27-2005, 01:52 PM   #2976
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Thanks guys....I'll just sand them down and add some o rings.

I will have to say, I am very happy with this car, just need to get it to lose some weight.....


**But then so do I...
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Old 01-27-2005, 02:55 PM   #2977
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Default Re: Dave, do you have a pic of your...

Quote:
Originally posted by RCknight
milled out chassis?
Soon ....Still at work
13+ hours a day 6 days a week kind of $uck$
-Dave
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Old 01-27-2005, 02:59 PM   #2978
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On TC4 setup sheets from the pros there's a place to note Droop front and rear... are they referring to droop meaning "the amount of uptravel the car has before it's wheels come off the ground"?

And those setup sheets don't have a place to mark the "downstop" setting, right?
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Old 01-27-2005, 03:16 PM   #2979
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The numbers given on the setup sheet ARE the downstop settings, as measure with the AE droop gauge. Usually the front is measured on the front edge of the A arm, directly under the hinge pin, and rear is measured on the rear of the A arm under the hinge pin. How much up travel you will have for a given droop gauge setting depends on your tire size and what ride height you are using. Droop setting, ride height setting, and the tire size listed on the set up sheet all have to be taken into account.
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Old 01-27-2005, 03:23 PM   #2980
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Default TC4

Quote:
Originally posted by kansasracer
Thanks guys....I'll just sand them down and add some o rings.

I will have to say, I am very happy with this car, just need to get it to lose some weight.....


**But then so do I...
Mike, you will be very happy with the car. I know I am and so is the Bear. He seems to be getting that thing faster and faster every week.

Later,
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Old 01-28-2005, 06:23 AM   #2981
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Default Building TC4

Hi everyone!!

I've finally ordered my TC4, should arrive in 3-4 days, is there any things I should get ready for when building the kit? I'd love some, advice!

I hope the car will turn out to be better than my evo3 surikarn, had so much trouble with that car and spent so much time tying to make everything work properly (drivetrain, gears stripping, set-ups) I started to get a little pissed of with that car......

Anyway, the TC4 should be fine

Do you think I should start with the setup out of the box for a medium grip asphalt track?
Or do you guys have something better?

THANKS!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 01-28-2005, 06:37 AM   #2982
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I am once again forced into despising AE shocks. I hate the freaking things. I went to build them last night, and I was building them slow like I was told (got out all the air bubbles) and when I got done to check the rebound, they rebound all the way until the shock is shaft is all the way extended. I hate the things. I dont know if its too much oil, or not enough, or if there is something else im missing but im sick of them. The JRX-S needs to hurry so I can get the LoSi shocks.
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Old 01-28-2005, 07:00 AM   #2983
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Most people I know including myself set them up so that they fully rebound............just as long as you can push the eyelet all the way in without any difference in resistance.......and that they don't rebound too quickly (about 3 or 4 seconds is good).........
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Old 01-28-2005, 07:12 AM   #2984
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so it is o.k. if the shocks rebound all the way out? mine do it takes probably about 4 seconds or so. This is o.k.?
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Old 01-28-2005, 07:24 AM   #2985
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Default shock rebound

Well thats good to know. I just saw that in the manual and Ive heard that they should rebound slightly.
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