TC4 Rider

Are any of you guys running the blue aluminum arm mounts? Just curious if there is any reason to use them. Seems to me like they are more of a bling thing, and would just add more weight.

DOTMAN

iTrader: (5)

I would say only the rear 2 and 2.5 blocks add value aside from looks and durability. The plastic ones only come in 3 degree

ChrisP

iTrader: (11)

The Aluminum blocks also take out a lot of slop...

DerekB

I'll agree for the most part. Remember there has to be crappier stuff for us to base what we think is good with right? The old without evil there is no good!

I'm blanking what we had the Fit and finish on, but remember that overall the fit/finish is very good on the car. The slop in the wheels can be taken up with shims...the steering? That's a little more labor. But there used to be a saying. You build a Losi with shims and a AE with a reamer.


As far as the beer. Let's figure out a day/night where you can come see the dyno (I don't forget we have to show you the light ) and then we can fight over beer and bar food.

RCGaryK

iTrader: (3)

Maybe a typical review for the mag in question. I ripped the entire left front off the car in my testing...some pretty serious damage. If something brakes in a review, it's written about.

Sobottka showed me the review in question...I bursted out laughing when I saw that. Not with the slop inherent in the plastic molding. I did the review for Driver on the TC4, here's right out of the text:

What could be improved:
There is an excessive amount of slop once the car has been completed. By simply including a bag of 0.010” shims this would be a moot point.
The flex in the chassis and other molded parts was a major downer.

BUT, I have been running this car lately as my foam car, and it's not the major pile people make it out to be. Once I bought and installed the graphite kit, that took out a major amount of slop, as did putting on the Losi front and rear hubs. I think once people get it out of their minds that they can just throw their TC3 setups on this car and expect it to work and more people get laps on the car, a lot of the bashing will stop. That and when the FT kit comes out things will get better too.

Soviet

iTrader: (2)

Ditto my man...ditto.

When the TC3 came out, people has nearly the same number of complaints.

I STILL think ALOT of the bashing is because people built it up in their minds that the TC4 was going to be the personification of God himself in touring car form.

However it's not, it's simply a smart progression of solid engineering. No more, no less. Plus alot of the younger crowd are too easily wowed by the "bling" factor of other cars.

As a good driver with a capable car will always be faster than a hunk of shiny alloy driven by a hamfist.

I'm gonna finish my TC4 in about 5 days and I can't wait to learn its tricks. You simply have to welcome the change as opposed to fearing it.

JDM_DOHC_SiR

iTrader: (31)

Trust me your going to love it.... I have tried many of TC and this one is by far the easiest to drive and set up (for me at least) plus I am much faster with it and I don't have to worry about the twin deck tweak
-Dave

Shalala

Anyone can provide a details TC4 setting for reference? (5 mins mod. , high traction ,Asphalt, one way .)
I still cannot find the point to start with....
I really want to know which setting is the sweet spot. Especially the arm mount spacer and camber link setting.

thx

Soviet

iTrader: (2)

Start with Take-Off 27s all around.

60w oil front Blue springs
50wt oil rear Red springs

Batts forward

Stock shims, setting etc.

1 degree front toe out

1.5 Camber front

1 Camber rear

stock rear toe-in

7mm front ride height

9mm rear ride height

stock droop





The above should totally get you in the "ballpark."

Tweak 'till your hearts content after trying that setup out.

Shalala

Thx for Soviet.
Forget to tell is setting for a high traction , Asphalt racing track.
Seem 7mm and 9mm car ride is too much for track.

thx anyway.

Bob Nilsen

iTrader: (1)

After I installed my carbon chassis components, I've noticed my car is tweaked a bit. Under acceleration it'll veer right a bit... and then veer left a bit when braking.

My chassis is pretty accurately balanced, and my shock lengths didn't change from before when I was running the plastic chassis... everything appears to be symmetrical L/R on the car...

Can anyone help me understand a bit what might be going on, and what area of the car to double-check?

MartynD

if ya take the wheels off does the chassis sit flat on a flat surface (piece of glass, setup board?)

If it doesn't, i'd loosen all the chassis braces, then maintaining a steady downpressure on the chassis to keep it flat against the surface I would retighten the braces back up, may or may not help to tighten them in a X pattern.

Also, when tightening the diff cases to the chassis, I also tightened them in an X pattern.

Of course this doesn't rule out that the new chassis came with a tweak...

Next would be... check for arms binding, shock ballcups binding, shock mounting nut too tight, droop the same side to side, check the shocks are similar in not only length but action, and spring preloads are close from side to side (may need to adjust to get rid of the tweak if nothing else works)

runnin rc10

iTrader: (1)

just put it on a tweak board...or use the old hobby knife under the bumper trick.

Jmccormick

Hey Bob I would start right from the beginning on set up including the matching of your shocks. I would also check my diffs especialy the rear diff in your case because of the problem your having the earlier diff gears where manufactured a bit to thick a easy way to see if your diff may be at fault is to tighten the diff adjustment and hold one rear wheel at the same time hold the spur gear and see if you can turn the other rear wheel. If you can then you have one of the defective gears. Replace it with a TC3 gear and your problem will be solved. Chassis Tweak can also cause the problem you are having a easy way to see if your chassis is not tweaked(warped) is to take a straight edge and place it verticly on the chassis to see how flat the chassis is. other then that I definately would start from scratch and check everything including the diff settings...
Jim

JWATT

Swap diffs to see if the on power pull goes away. Or maybe simply tighten the front diff, my TC3 did this, and I found the front diff too loose.