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Old 01-20-2005, 01:03 PM   #2806
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The car is Sweet. I love the way it drives.
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Old 01-20-2005, 01:14 PM   #2807
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To increase the rotation at the last Carpet Thrashnal over here I shortened the wheelbase and put on a 4 deg Castor block running flat spacers all round. I also moved the shocks out at the front to line up with the rear and softened the springs slightly to get a bit more front end under braking into the hairpins.

Only complaint I had at the end was my side to side rolling seemed a little excessive so I'm giving a full set on anti-roll bars a try at the weekend.

Oh also reducing the 3 deg toe at the back to 2 made the car feel nicer in the turns.
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Old 01-20-2005, 02:50 PM   #2808
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Oh yeah...My friend used the 2 degree rear mount with the Losi 1/2 degree carriers reversed to take out another degree of toe
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Old 01-20-2005, 02:58 PM   #2809
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why doesnt AE sell the 2.5 or 2.0 rear on mount in plastic or than only factory alum.?
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Old 01-20-2005, 03:02 PM   #2810
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Buy the plastic mounts and switch the circle for the square in the rear. I haven't measured it, but it would seem to be somewhere between 2 and 2.5 deg.
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Old 01-20-2005, 03:06 PM   #2811
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i dont get it ? do what?
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Old 01-20-2005, 03:18 PM   #2812
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If you buy the plastic set of blocks again you can use the Circle block on the rear instead of the standard X 3 and it gives you approximately 2 deg rear toe
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Old 01-20-2005, 03:20 PM   #2813
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he's saying that if you dont want to buy the alumium block buy a set of plastic blocks and that by putting a circle block were the square should go you will get 2.0-2.5 deg of toe in, in the rear
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Old 01-20-2005, 03:57 PM   #2814
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Exclamation Just one question before buying TC4

Hi,

I'm new to this forum and I would like to know if the TC4 has any stripping problem since it's shaft driven car?

I have a EVO3 Surikarn and this was a BIG problem and it needed some shimming to fix the gears from stripping

Does the TC4 need any shimming?

I don't want to go thru this again
after having so much pain with my evo3!

I'm just about to buy it, I just need a quick answer!

Thanks in advance,

Will.
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Old 01-20-2005, 04:00 PM   #2815
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Only time I have stripped a diff gear is when I shimmed it too far to get max free spin. I now have good free spin and no stripping problems.
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Old 01-20-2005, 04:15 PM   #2816
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Default Does changing to...

a more consistant shock like Tamiya's make a difference for anyone?
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Old 01-20-2005, 04:17 PM   #2817
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No, I'm not David.
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Old 01-20-2005, 04:21 PM   #2818
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think the only difference by going to the tamiya shocks is the ease in which you can build them...

I wouldn't know if they are better performing or not... tempted to find out, after my last shock rebuild..
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Old 01-20-2005, 04:24 PM   #2819
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Quote:
Originally posted by JWATT
Only time I have stripped a diff gear is when I shimmed it too far to get max free spin. I now have good free spin and no stripping problems.
I agree. Proper shimming is vital to all shaft cars particularly the EVO3. I think the AE gears are better, but they still need to be properly spaced. Proper shimming will also free up the drivetrain too

Last edited by DOTMAN; 01-20-2005 at 04:32 PM.
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Old 01-20-2005, 04:31 PM   #2820
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Quote:
Originally posted by RCknight
a more consistant shock like Tamiya's make a difference for anyone?
People make a big deal about the Tamiya shocks...which are good, but the AE shocks have work great. At least they have for me and I have four sets. If you already have AE shocks and don't want to spend the money on Tamiya, buy the Yokomo shock caps for the AE shocks. It's a lot cheaper. They use bladders like the Tamiya shocks which makes rebuilds real easy. You can also go even cheaper by getting the Yok shock caps with the bleed screws. They're not quite as easy to build as the bladder type but still very simple. The AE shocks are smooth and consistent. I don't know why people are saying bad things about them. The only issue to me is the cap. Just replace'em
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