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Old 01-09-2005, 06:55 PM   #2521
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Quote:
Originally posted by runnin rc10
I thought is been proven that the batteries on the left is more effective then on the right...could be wrong, but besides that it looks like real quality. A lot of chassis coming out for the TC4, guess no one likes the stock one!

from what i have been told: the motor is best on the right due to the rotation which has the least loading affect on working against the suspension like putting the motor on the left.

not counting conversions........majority of the shaft drive cars have it on the right:
AE, HPI, YOK, Tamyia

one comes to mind that doesn't:
Barracuda

Rumor has it, that the new Kyosho car will be shaft? we will have to see on that one. with Josh Cyrul given full control on the car you know it will be done right (as is correct)
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Old 01-09-2005, 07:20 PM   #2522
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Quote:
Originally posted by runnin rc10
One thing I just noticed on that chassis is the CF drive shaft...I wonder if they are gonna sell that individual..i would like one
The Drive shaft is actually shorter than the stock TC4 one... since the motor moutn has been moved fwd... and that shaft is for a MR4 TC SD
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Old 01-10-2005, 11:13 AM   #2523
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Has anyone else noticed the lack of high profile AE guys posting anything about the TC4 for awhile? The last time Mike Blackstock posted was almost 2 months, Barry Baker's last post was before Christmas on Cyrul's thread, Tony Phalen seems to be helping out mostly with M18 stuff and fighting off guys blaming AE for the lack of a 4wd offroad class. It would be nice if they could come on here and keep us updated with setups and status of what they are finding with the car.
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Old 01-10-2005, 11:18 AM   #2524
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I've noticed it too... and it's too bad. Wonder if the guys are just busy, or if they are under some direction from AE. There's not some *other* forum that they are more likely to participate in, is there?
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Old 01-10-2005, 11:39 AM   #2525
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Default Cutting TC4 Weight

So it seems that the 2005 ROAR rules state that the minium weight for cars with foam tires is 1418 grams... down from 1525 last year.

My TC4 (stock, plus front sway, rpm bumper mod, aluminum screws, and chassis balance weights on motor side of car) weighs in at about 1520 grams ready for the track with foam tires. That makes me about 7% overweight...

Can anyone help me figure the best way to get my chassis weight down?

A while ago 190mph asked about the weight savings by going to the carbon graphite components... anyone ever figure that out?

I figure I could drop 90 bucks going to carbon and titanium turnbuckles... but i'd sure like to know how much weight i'd lose first.

I plan to eventually go to graphite anyway for rigidity reasons, but I would rather wait until I break less parts to make that move.

Last edited by Bob Nilsen; 01-11-2005 at 12:32 AM.
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Old 01-10-2005, 12:22 PM   #2526
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Hey Bob,

Check out Ultimate hobbies for a break on your carbon part set. $50 bones! I'm sure they're cheaper on the Ti stuff too...

http://www.ultimatehobbies.com//c510.html

P.S. No shipping on orders over $50
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Old 01-10-2005, 12:39 PM   #2527
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Bob, Going to graphite you will drop about 1 1/2 oz.
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Old 01-10-2005, 02:49 PM   #2528
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Default wishbones just giving way?

hiya guys, raced my tc4 for the first time on carpet on saturday (wasn't good at all, had problems with diffs..appears i ahd them fat gears, all sorted now though )

anyway, it was in the final qualifier and it was no longer than say 30 secs in, came onto the straight and when i put the power on coming out of the corner the wishbone just gave way and totally broke off (upto the part where the shock mount goes, see in pic..its a little blurred though)

anyway, is it just me having a dodgey wishbone? i didnt hit anything, well i clipped a corner but it was on the opposite side and i can't remember coming in contact with anyone on that side hard.

heres the pic:
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Old 01-10-2005, 02:59 PM   #2529
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Wishbone?

Can't see too well from your picture, I've had my TC4 at the track twice now...

Day 1, woohoo!! new car (1st TC too) 2 hrs later... left front arm broken and outdrive. (heavy collision with a very solid object)


Day 2, ok $20 later we got it all fixed up, 2nd run hmm sounds funny.. right front dogbone has popped out of the outdrive, outdrive chewed up... 40 minutes later, after 1 run with new outdrive it is also chewed up, but at least dogbone has not come out. lasted rest of the day, though that was only 2 more runs.

Overall I like the car, and after I add the NTC3 bumper and IRS outdrives hopefully I will be able to focus on learning to drive the thing.

The front arms seem weakest around the lower shock mount, but I hear thats been solved though none of the new arms have made it to any of my LHS.
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Old 01-10-2005, 03:14 PM   #2530
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well melted 2 diffs so i ordered some lt steel outdrives and wishbones etc....should be alright for this weekend.

i have just been talking to someone and they seem to think its most likely a small air bubble inside the platic that caused to t crack..then give way but never mind, this stuff happens.

anyone here race stock rubber on a medium ish sized track? (surface is like a rubbery type stuff..indoor running track)...if so, anyone got alright starting gearing for an EA monster?
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Old 01-10-2005, 04:04 PM   #2531
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Several more ways to drop weight off the TC4 are to use the TC3 aluminum center shaft/output cups and the composite dogbones. The stock TC4 center shaft is solid, so it's heavy, while the TC3 aluminum shaft is hollow and lighter. The TC4 aluminum dogbones are nice and beefy, but also heavy.

Of course, this all depends on what surface you are racing on. I'd say keep the stock TC4 stuff if you are using a one way or spool in the front. Those put a ton more stress on the drivetrain when you hit things, so you need the heavy, beefy components. But, if you run a diff in the front, you should be OK running the lighter TC3 parts.

That said, I'm still a fan of the IRS aluminum diffs over the stock plastic ones. For me, the plastic ones just break too easily.
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Old 01-10-2005, 04:49 PM   #2532
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another way to lose weight, is eliminate battery strap and use tape. That is the heavy side of the car. If you go to the NOVAK race thread and look thru the pictures that were put up, look for Barry Baker car. You will see no strap, no poles that the strap clips too and the chassis is drilled out in front of battery.
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Old 01-10-2005, 04:50 PM   #2533
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Default Fastasu2...

are there any close up pics of Baker's car?
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Old 01-10-2005, 04:53 PM   #2534
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Here is a link to a pic of Bakers car. This was posted on the Novak race thread.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...postid=1306703
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Old 01-10-2005, 04:54 PM   #2535
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http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...postid=1306703

See if this works, never done it before.
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