Jack Smash

iTrader: (35)

Hmmmm, sounds like it was built wrong.

You should have the thrust assy on the side with the bolt head and the other side should be the spring and t-nut. There shouldn't be a white spacer there. There is a little white cover that goes on the side with the thrust assy after everything is together.

1shnot

iTrader: (2)

so spring should be under the white nut? ..
I thought I've built it(rear) diff long screw then thrust , then spring under....

either way I'll have to take it apart any whom, so I will try that.

Thanks alot for your help

Fatboy Joe

I am using some cheap smooth circular stone bit with a flat bottom. You can buy that bit in any hardware store around.

Brandon Melton

iTrader: (7)

You did build it that way with the plastic diffs. The plastic and steel ones are opposite. Like stated above, the thrust assembly goes in the "short" outdrive and the spring goes in before the white nut on the long side.

1shnot

iTrader: (2)

thanx alot for your advise.....
It worked, just curious.. I'm not a newbie, without any instructions , how could I have figure this out with out coming to forum?

I driven xray for about 3 yrs (and by no means I'm trying to start up this "xray is better" business) and I've never had anything like this before.......... but how are we suppost to figure it out?

I could of asked someone at the track, but at that moment no one was available

Anywhom, again thank you for quick reply...

Joon kim

Jack Smash

iTrader: (35)

I've been building AE cars since the old 6 gear tranny. I knew because my TC3 was part of the first batch that came out and they came with steel diffs. AE probably should include instructions with both sets of diffs due to people not being in the know on how to build each of them. Oh well I guess thats why we have rctech.

They don't include instructions with things as complicated as a diff but they will hold up the release of the anti-roll bar kits because the instructions werent done. Go figure.

rayhuang

iTrader: (5)

The car really came alive tonight. I chnaged a lot of things on it all to increase corner speed and maintain drivability. I got it to steer liek made and got it lazy too. IN the end i am very happy with the set-up. I will talk to Jason tomorrow about it-but it seems ready to me.

I might get a pre-production car soon with all the chnages we discussed and run it another week-then its for sale.

Ray

Big KAT

iTrader: (1)

Here's a picture to show the diffs assembly side by side.

Big KAT

iTrader: (1)

Diff picture

JDM_DOHC_SiR

iTrader: (31)

Hey Ray are you ever going to put that thing on a scale or what
-Dave

lem2

iTrader: (6)

http://www.kmodels-kai.com/tc4kai.htm

CRASH

iTrader: (26)

Here is the link to the instructions for the steel diff:

TC3-TC4 Steel Diff

Later,

CRASH

iTrader: (26)

Ray, good to hear the car is doing so well. Give me a call if you get a chance.

Later,

runnin rc10

iTrader: (1)

Has anyone here done any serious experimenting with the shims under the pivot supports? It seems that there are soo many ways to setup the car using the different shims just wondering if anyone has had any specific success with a certain setup.

Edit: Is everyone running the 2* rear toe blocks? Im seein them everywhere

rayhuang

iTrader: (5)

OH-yeah-here goes.

With:
NOvak GT7 and 12 gauge wire and cap and Schottly
All aluminum hingepin blocks
KO 301 receiver
LT wt. Steel front diff
All steel screws and ballstuds.
2.25" foam tires
Parma Alfa

53oz. If I put alum screws and my GTX and 302 Receiver-Easily 51oz.