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Old 12-23-2004, 12:47 PM   #2176
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Quote:
Originally posted by StephenSobottka
Ray- heh, I use the IRS alu outdrives on my stuff with the IRS cvd's and pinsavers, never had a problem yet.
Yeah-I always ran IRS diffs and pin cushions in my eTC3's-only complaint-required diff rebuilds very frequently to keep them Butter. Though they worked gritty. The plastic and old steal ones were smooth for months!!!
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Old 12-23-2004, 07:32 PM   #2177
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Default Waiting..................

for the factory team kit to be released. I'm just looking for a change from my xxx-s g+ and I saw a blueprinted tc3 drivetrain free spin for like ten seconds after a hand spin. The Losi only spins for like a second or two. It's good to know I'll still have a use for all my caster hubs and toe blocks. I've read every other page of this thread so from what I can gather I'll need an RPM NTC3 bumper(cause ya I still tap the boards) and lightened steel outdrives or a good oneway(suggestions?). Are there any other must have parts that would increase durability/performance?
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Old 12-23-2004, 09:15 PM   #2178
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Default teflon shock bodys

I was wondering where you can teflon or white shock bodys that I saw on bakers car?
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Old 12-23-2004, 09:29 PM   #2179
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He is running the factory team shocks...most shops should be carrying them now..
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Old 12-23-2004, 09:29 PM   #2180
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Their the Associated Hard anodized ones that will come standard on the Factory team TC-4 kit........I Just put 'em on yesterday(pretty sweet)...kinda goldish white color...You can but the whole kit or just the bodys like I did..... part # 3990 (2 bodys per pack) 17.50..........
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Old 12-23-2004, 09:30 PM   #2181
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same time
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Old 12-23-2004, 09:41 PM   #2182
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Hey Poppa ray, the only other things I would put at the top of the list is the full Carbon kit, it took out alot of the excessive flex, along with over 2 ounces, and the blue aluminum screw kit.....and before I'd go with the lightened steel outdrives, I'd get the IRS aluminum outdrives and use the pin cushins so they won't wear......their still way lighter that the steel ones
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Old 12-23-2004, 09:43 PM   #2183
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opps.... just noticed you are waiting for the FT kit anyway
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Old 12-23-2004, 11:33 PM   #2184
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When using Losi rear hubs to reduce toe-in on the TC4, which part should I pick up: LOSA9853 (1 Deg Graph Rear Hub Set:XXX-S) or the LOSA9856 (1 Deg Graph Offset RR Hub: XXX-S)?

Also, when using Losi XXX-S front castor blocks are you guys using the Losi XXX-S steering knuckle as well?

Thanks in advance and Merry Christmas.
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Old 12-23-2004, 11:34 PM   #2185
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Use the regular hubs
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Old 12-23-2004, 11:45 PM   #2186
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What about the front castor blocks, should I use the castor blocks and the steering spindles for the Losi XXX-S that are 4 degrees?

Thanks,
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Old 12-23-2004, 11:45 PM   #2187
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Yep, they wont strip out and are stiffer as well.
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Old 12-24-2004, 12:25 AM   #2188
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Default diff issue

hey guys,

been runnin' the TC4 for the past 2 weeks, an dI love the car....

I am runnin' mod sedan, and I have installed the IRS diff out drives (TC3) and used all TC3 parts to build it...

The problem I am having, is that I cannot seem to get the diff to work properly. I have checked it doing the hold one tire/wheel and spur and try to turn the opposite wheel, and it turns when I have it to where it should "feel", in order to have the diff set to where the "opposite" wheel does NOT move, the diff - might as well be a "spool".....

This has bothered me so much, that I thought it was the IRS outdrives (which I doubt), so I went and purchased the AE Lightened Steel ones (specifically for the TC4), but how does it "come together". There is NO specific "socket" for the 2-52 nt to go "into", and also, it is set up to run "with" "D-Style" diff rings.....


can anyone out there help me out? and point me in the right direction.

(part numners, explanations, etc.)

HELP!, I don't want to run knowing my diff is NOT working properly!
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Old 12-24-2004, 03:05 AM   #2189
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Ghoppa -

There were some problems with the original crown gear moulds whch made some of them a little too think causing the diff to stick (basically they were too wide for the diff balls). If you have a look back through this thread Tony Phalen explained a bit about it and gave details on how to get a replacement from Associated.

Hope that helps

Andy
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Old 12-24-2004, 03:11 AM   #2190
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Use some fine sandpaper to sand your rings. Unpolish them.

Also make sure you don't have any oil, grease, or anything other than Diff Lube in there. If you used anythign other than Diff Lube, motor spray it clean and use Diff Lube only.

That will do it... you shouldn't have to buy new diff parts.
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