Team Associated TC4
#1606
Hi Guys,
We have all the TC4 spares and hop-ups we received up on the website, including graphite components, factory team parts, teflon shocks and more. Click here to go directly to the TC4 pages
Thanks
Steve Wang
We have all the TC4 spares and hop-ups we received up on the website, including graphite components, factory team parts, teflon shocks and more. Click here to go directly to the TC4 pages
Thanks
Steve Wang
#1607
Turnbuckles
The kit lists turnbuckle sizes as 1.00" and 1.25" but the FT options list them as 1.30 and 1.125. Why the change and does it matter?
#1608
Tech Adept
I think it is because a "TC4" turnbuckles package isn't yet out but AE make some FT Turnbuckles in those sizes.
They will fit fine and actually be stronger as there will be more of the thread inside the ball cup.
Andy
They will fit fine and actually be stronger as there will be more of the thread inside the ball cup.
Andy
#1609
Can anyone explain to me the logic of packaging the steering blocks with a rear hub carrier? I can never remember breaking both of these at the same time. It burns me to have to purchase these together and overpay for the one part I broke, and now they only come one per package. Everyone I know always ends up with bundles of hub carriers when all they need are the steering blocks.
#1610
Originally posted by Brandon Melton
Can anyone explain to me the logic of packaging the steering blocks with a rear hub carrier? I can never remember breaking both of these at the same time. It burns me to have to purchase these together and overpay for the one part I broke, and now they only come one per package. Everyone I know always ends up with bundles of hub carriers when all they need are the steering blocks.
Can anyone explain to me the logic of packaging the steering blocks with a rear hub carrier? I can never remember breaking both of these at the same time. It burns me to have to purchase these together and overpay for the one part I broke, and now they only come one per package. Everyone I know always ends up with bundles of hub carriers when all they need are the steering blocks.
#1612
Tech Master
for the rear carriers i just use the graphite losi ones there 7.50 at my lhs and i never break them
#1613
TPhalen - can I get the TC4 setup that baker used at the race at SRS this past weekend? I am moving to PHX soon and would like a good setup to refer to with the new car.
Thank You
Thank You
#1614
YES....
I 2nd Brandon Melton, Rcracinglid, and Torsion. It's BS and I have 15 parts I don't need from the TC3.
#1615
Originally posted by Torsion
I agree... the steering blocks and rear hub carriers should be sold seperately... and the 2.0 and 2.5 X blocks should be available in plastic.
I've already broken two rear hub carriers, which means i've spent 2 x $8 to replace them... which is way too much.
I agree... the steering blocks and rear hub carriers should be sold seperately... and the 2.0 and 2.5 X blocks should be available in plastic.
I've already broken two rear hub carriers, which means i've spent 2 x $8 to replace them... which is way too much.
#1616
Originally posted by Javen13
for the rear carriers i just use the graphite losi ones there 7.50 at my lhs and i never break them
for the rear carriers i just use the graphite losi ones there 7.50 at my lhs and i never break them
Javen, Do you have the Losi part number?
#1617
Tech Master
its part number LOSA9847
#1618
Tech Master
yeah i know it really is crap that to get a $2.50 part you have to spend $10 on parts you dont need xrays good like that (selling parts indivudually) but not many shops have them but tamiays the worst you have to buy huge trees of parts
#1619
I have done a pretty cool/interesting spreadsheet of weights of all the carbon v's plastic v's alloy parts, if your interested email me at [email protected] .
I also agree the toe blocks should be made in plastic, the alloy ones and so heavy to the plastic ones.
I have been using Losi castor blocks in the front mainly to get rid of the slop from the AE ones. The losi ones only need a slight flie to sit them in the arms and there is zero slop. I also take out one of the arm spacers and replace it with a Tamiya 1mm spacer, again zero arm slop with this little bit extra thickness.
I must say the polised hinge pin set is a real good option. Takes out a lot of slop and is way smoother.
The new chassis def makes the car pretty stiff. I think the only thing I can't get yet is the roll bar mounting kits. Not interested in the bars as I make my own, but the mounting gear seems to be the hardest to get.
Coxy.
I also agree the toe blocks should be made in plastic, the alloy ones and so heavy to the plastic ones.
I have been using Losi castor blocks in the front mainly to get rid of the slop from the AE ones. The losi ones only need a slight flie to sit them in the arms and there is zero slop. I also take out one of the arm spacers and replace it with a Tamiya 1mm spacer, again zero arm slop with this little bit extra thickness.
I must say the polised hinge pin set is a real good option. Takes out a lot of slop and is way smoother.
The new chassis def makes the car pretty stiff. I think the only thing I can't get yet is the roll bar mounting kits. Not interested in the bars as I make my own, but the mounting gear seems to be the hardest to get.
Coxy.
#1620
Originally posted by Peter Busch
Tony, when is AE going to give us wheel nuts that are low profile like the IRS ones? The nut doesn't screw on far enough for the lock to touch the threads.
Tony, when is AE going to give us wheel nuts that are low profile like the IRS ones? The nut doesn't screw on far enough for the lock to touch the threads.
Coxy.