Team Associated TC4
I have a fan mount very similar to that. That should take care of your cooling issues, no sweat.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (2)
Need a new chassis for VTA. TC4 club is only 150 and I have tons of spare parts, but it also needs some upgrades like DJ CVDs and shocks which ups the price. Should I just get a ARC R11 on sale for $299 @ hobbyking instead?
Tech Master
iTrader: (28)
I wouldn't.
This a link to my blog, it details everything I did to my personal TC4 when I raced it. I also have setup sheets posted on there as well. Cheers!
https://theracerunderground.blogspot...l-20-team.html
Tech Elite
iTrader: (67)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00J2MDZK4
Yeah Racing DSG-0055GM Shock-Gear 55mm Damper Set for 1/10 Touring Car Gun Metal | eBay
*These are also available in 50mm which may work with the short towers RSD made. Not quite sure... just a proposed idea.
Looking at the TC4 for VTA because of affordability. But once you buy the kit and then upgrade to better shocks, would a used TC7 be a better option? What are the Pros/Cons of this?
I guess Assuming that AE will support the TC4 for a while???
I guess Assuming that AE will support the TC4 for a while???
Tech Elite
iTrader: (16)
I'd get the used TC7. That's what I use in VTA and it works great. It's a TC7, not a TC7.1 and it was almost new for $200. The good thing is my USGT and Touring Car are both TC7.1, so there are a lot of common parts.
Kinda new to the TC4. Picked up a club racer and have upgrades already on the way! Question is I bought a set of Tc7.1 DCVs and the steering blocks. With the exception of dremeling the caster block is there anything else that needs to be done or should I use tc7.1 caster blocks as well?
Kinda new to the TC4. Picked up a club racer and have upgrades already on the way! Question is I bought a set of Tc7.1 DCVs and the steering blocks. With the exception of dremeling the caster block is there anything else that needs to be done or should I use tc7.1 caster blocks as well?
Get the TC7 (or even a 6.1 or 2) Dont get me wrong , I like my old Tc4 but they are not the Equal of the newer cars.
Last edited by Lone Drifter; 07-21-2017 at 10:56 AM. Reason: exchanging Newer for Never :)
Tech Regular
iTrader: (7)
My TC4 seems to have a strange problem, and I'm wondering if anybody else has experienced this (not necessarily with a TC4. The car has 3 degrees of rear toe-in. Running it on USGT tires, at slow speed, the rear end seems to "waddle." What I mean is, as the car coasts at a low speed, the back end seems to shift back and forth. Once the speed picks up, it becomes unnoticeable (at least to me). Could it be that there's too much rear toe-in, and the wheels are actually fighting each other to shift the rear end's direction?
My TC4 seems to have a strange problem, and I'm wondering if anybody else has experienced this (not necessarily with a TC4. The car has 3 degrees of rear toe-in. Running it on USGT tires, at slow speed, the rear end seems to "waddle." What I mean is, as the car coasts at a low speed, the back end seems to shift back and forth. Once the speed picks up, it becomes unnoticeable (at least to me). Could it be that there's too much rear toe-in, and the wheels are actually fighting each other to shift the rear end's direction?
Maybe the Rear Diff or CVD is slightly bound up in one spot
Seen it with a set of tires with a bad warped wheel. A bent axle will do the same.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (7)
Would I be able to see the wobble when I turned the wheels by hand? Looking at it, nothing seems out of whack. The axles look straight and the wheels don't shift or shimmy when turning. The diff turns smoothly (rebuilt with steel outdrives) and I don't feel any binding (again, when turning by hand).
Tech Lord
iTrader: (3)
You probably won't see it turning by hand. Pick it up and give it a little throttle and watch. My bet is either bent rim or the foam shifted inside one or both tires.