Speedmerchant Rev.4
#61
superior hobbies had one in stock last time i was there.
#62
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
Originally posted by odpurple
Thanks Storm, How heavy is "close to weight"? I was hoping to get an overview of the weights of various cars to see if anybody ever gets down to minumum. Pictures of cars from the worlds and Cleveand show cars with lead on them and I don't see (from the photos) why they would be underweight. My new Rev4 is built with a lot of light weight stuff and is still overweight (813g)
I'm not on a quest to lighten this car, per say, but to understand what weight other racers are trying to achieve. It seems to me that some of the weight I see on cars is "psycological".
O'D
Thanks Storm, How heavy is "close to weight"? I was hoping to get an overview of the weights of various cars to see if anybody ever gets down to minumum. Pictures of cars from the worlds and Cleveand show cars with lead on them and I don't see (from the photos) why they would be underweight. My new Rev4 is built with a lot of light weight stuff and is still overweight (813g)
I'm not on a quest to lighten this car, per say, but to understand what weight other racers are trying to achieve. It seems to me that some of the weight I see on cars is "psycological".
O'D
#63
Originally posted by CypressMidWest
... The Niftech bulkheads are a bit portly compared to the CRC ones,...
... The Niftech bulkheads are a bit portly compared to the CRC ones,...
The bottom line is that the range of weight of motor bulkheads from the lightest to the heaviest is just over 2 grams (.07oz).
One thing I've never weighed is the AE magnesium motor bulkhead because I've never been able to get one, and that should be the lightest combination out there.
I do appreciate you guys' input, as most of the people I've asked about this stuff don't seem to have any practical knowledge.
O'D
#64
High-bite Carpet Setup
Hey guys,
I'm having a bit of a problem tuning my car to high bite conditions. The car drives great in both low and high bite conditions, but as the grip comes up the laptimes get slower. Is this normal? I always assumed laptimes went lower as the grip came up. There is a little bit of blackening on the left side chassis near the link mounting screw and on the bottom pod plate on the outside edge, so it may be a case of rubbing on the track and slowing the car down.
My setup is:
Front:
Strut front end, 10 reactive blocks, both shims forward, .018 springs, 3.5mm ride height, 1 deg toe out, servo up on mounts, TM Magentas with the sidewall glued and TQ orange on the inside 1/3.
Rear:
White side springs, Speedmerchant black center spring, 80wt oil in Silva shock, 2 deg pod droop, chassis set level, battery forward, heavy dampening fluid, Jaco pink rears with full TQ orange, 3.5mm ride height, speed 12 body. Redline 9X2 geared 23/100
Would going up one spring all the way around to .020 and reds help keep the chassis flatter and keep the balance? I'm also looking for a bit more cornerspeed in the slow 180s, would laying down the servo help this?
Thanks for any help you guys can give. So far i'm the only one who runs at rev. 4 in mod at my local track so i don't really have anyone to work with to try setups.
Thanks,
James
I'm having a bit of a problem tuning my car to high bite conditions. The car drives great in both low and high bite conditions, but as the grip comes up the laptimes get slower. Is this normal? I always assumed laptimes went lower as the grip came up. There is a little bit of blackening on the left side chassis near the link mounting screw and on the bottom pod plate on the outside edge, so it may be a case of rubbing on the track and slowing the car down.
My setup is:
Front:
Strut front end, 10 reactive blocks, both shims forward, .018 springs, 3.5mm ride height, 1 deg toe out, servo up on mounts, TM Magentas with the sidewall glued and TQ orange on the inside 1/3.
Rear:
White side springs, Speedmerchant black center spring, 80wt oil in Silva shock, 2 deg pod droop, chassis set level, battery forward, heavy dampening fluid, Jaco pink rears with full TQ orange, 3.5mm ride height, speed 12 body. Redline 9X2 geared 23/100
Would going up one spring all the way around to .020 and reds help keep the chassis flatter and keep the balance? I'm also looking for a bit more cornerspeed in the slow 180s, would laying down the servo help this?
Thanks for any help you guys can give. So far i'm the only one who runs at rev. 4 in mod at my local track so i don't really have anyone to work with to try setups.
Thanks,
James
#65
James- with high bite i would think your car would be traction rolling a good bit with such a soft set up, up front and a stiff one in the back...
Some suggestions..
Bruce's manditory question, lol, have u tried a old sytle front end? I think almost all of the speedmerchant mod guys in clevland all ran the old school front end, (and jake ran one when he finished very well at the nats last year). On asphalt I would suggest running the new front end, but on carpet it is possible to get the old one to work.
I would suggest trying (with keeping that front end...) .020 front springs, possibly a little more front sauce, and 30-40 weight in the center shock and the batteries back, get the car to transfer weight in the 180's better.
It just seems really odd that your set up isnt steering enough, since it should steer alot, you could possibly be too stiff, so thats why i would almost suggest softening some things. Or possibly the traction compound is creating odd grip or a greasy track.
I know that jake ran a soft set in comparison to that in cleveland (.020 or .022 front springs on the old front end with a camber shim and 2 degrees of castor, copper center spring, 40 weight, and orange or possibly blue side springs, double pink front, pink rear jaco's, and his car was really good, also he ran ofna 10k in the tubes).
Also i would almost want to say, try higher roll center cones, it locks the back end in less.
Some suggestions..
Bruce's manditory question, lol, have u tried a old sytle front end? I think almost all of the speedmerchant mod guys in clevland all ran the old school front end, (and jake ran one when he finished very well at the nats last year). On asphalt I would suggest running the new front end, but on carpet it is possible to get the old one to work.
I would suggest trying (with keeping that front end...) .020 front springs, possibly a little more front sauce, and 30-40 weight in the center shock and the batteries back, get the car to transfer weight in the 180's better.
It just seems really odd that your set up isnt steering enough, since it should steer alot, you could possibly be too stiff, so thats why i would almost suggest softening some things. Or possibly the traction compound is creating odd grip or a greasy track.
I know that jake ran a soft set in comparison to that in cleveland (.020 or .022 front springs on the old front end with a camber shim and 2 degrees of castor, copper center spring, 40 weight, and orange or possibly blue side springs, double pink front, pink rear jaco's, and his car was really good, also he ran ofna 10k in the tubes).
Also i would almost want to say, try higher roll center cones, it locks the back end in less.
#66
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
Re: High-bite Carpet Setup
Originally posted by JamesArluck
Hey guys,
I'm having a bit of a problem tuning my car to high bite conditions. The car drives great in both low and high bite conditions, but as the grip comes up the laptimes get slower. Is this normal? I always assumed laptimes went lower as the grip came up. There is a little bit of blackening on the left side chassis near the link mounting screw and on the bottom pod plate on the outside edge, so it may be a case of rubbing on the track and slowing the car down.
My setup is:
Front:
Strut front end, 10 reactive blocks, both shims forward, .018 springs, 3.5mm ride height, 1 deg toe out, servo up on mounts, TM Magentas with the sidewall glued and TQ orange on the inside 1/3.
Rear:
White side springs, Speedmerchant black center spring, 80wt oil in Silva shock, 2 deg pod droop, chassis set level, battery forward, heavy dampening fluid, Jaco pink rears with full TQ orange, 3.5mm ride height, speed 12 body. Redline 9X2 geared 23/100
Would going up one spring all the way around to .020 and reds help keep the chassis flatter and keep the balance? I'm also looking for a bit more cornerspeed in the slow 180s, would laying down the servo help this?
Thanks for any help you guys can give. So far i'm the only one who runs at rev. 4 in mod at my local track so i don't really have anyone to work with to try setups.
Thanks,
James
Hey guys,
I'm having a bit of a problem tuning my car to high bite conditions. The car drives great in both low and high bite conditions, but as the grip comes up the laptimes get slower. Is this normal? I always assumed laptimes went lower as the grip came up. There is a little bit of blackening on the left side chassis near the link mounting screw and on the bottom pod plate on the outside edge, so it may be a case of rubbing on the track and slowing the car down.
My setup is:
Front:
Strut front end, 10 reactive blocks, both shims forward, .018 springs, 3.5mm ride height, 1 deg toe out, servo up on mounts, TM Magentas with the sidewall glued and TQ orange on the inside 1/3.
Rear:
White side springs, Speedmerchant black center spring, 80wt oil in Silva shock, 2 deg pod droop, chassis set level, battery forward, heavy dampening fluid, Jaco pink rears with full TQ orange, 3.5mm ride height, speed 12 body. Redline 9X2 geared 23/100
Would going up one spring all the way around to .020 and reds help keep the chassis flatter and keep the balance? I'm also looking for a bit more cornerspeed in the slow 180s, would laying down the servo help this?
Thanks for any help you guys can give. So far i'm the only one who runs at rev. 4 in mod at my local track so i don't really have anyone to work with to try setups.
Thanks,
James
Also, you may wanna try the Parma Speed 8. The Proto works very well in low to med. bite, but I think it's too much when the bite gets high.
#67
Thanks for the suggestions guys. Wouldn't going softer on the rear roll rate make the chassis drag more though?
-James
-James
#68
James- Is this your Stockton setup? The same track I was at last spring?
It sounds like your car is so stiff in the rear and soft in the front that is making the balance weird.
t
It sounds like your car is so stiff in the rear and soft in the front that is making the balance weird.
t
#69
Hey TJ,
Yeah, same track as last year. I guess i'm going too far in trying to get steering and need to go to a more traditional setup and get the balance back.
You gonna make it back out to Stockton this year? I heard you moved to florida.
-James
Yeah, same track as last year. I guess i'm going too far in trying to get steering and need to go to a more traditional setup and get the balance back.
You gonna make it back out to Stockton this year? I heard you moved to florida.
-James
#70
Tech Initiate
Rev 4
How wide are you running the rear track on your Rev 4?
MIne is 6 5/8", with TRC rear tires and the Trinity spacers from a Reflex 12.
Also does anyone know where a Rev 4 conversion is available? A buddy of mine wants one. Hobby ETC is out of stock.
Also I have been trying to find "tan" front tires. Kelly Bean @ Parma does not have them, and I can't find any Dist who stock them. Ordering direct from Trinity will cost me $8 extra.
Thanks
Dave
MIne is 6 5/8", with TRC rear tires and the Trinity spacers from a Reflex 12.
Also does anyone know where a Rev 4 conversion is available? A buddy of mine wants one. Hobby ETC is out of stock.
Also I have been trying to find "tan" front tires. Kelly Bean @ Parma does not have them, and I can't find any Dist who stock them. Ordering direct from Trinity will cost me $8 extra.
Thanks
Dave
#71
I have no idea how wide my car is, i think it is pretty close to the legal limit, with parma tires i am running 2 shims on the right side and 3 or 4 on the left side, and I have heard that the things that come with the trinity car are actually not spacers but go on the other side of the rim to make sure that the rim is bolted on true, although i could be wrong
As far as tan's... I dont think that Parma sells them currently, I think TRC is the only compnay that currently does, although a Jaco double pink is somewhat close to a GRP foam tan.
As far as rev. 4 conversions if hobby etc doesnt have them or speedmerchant's webstore you would probably have to call hobby shops that stock his product, which would include rc madness (www.rcmadness.com, I think they might ship) but I dont know of any other stores that ship off of the top of my head.
As far as tan's... I dont think that Parma sells them currently, I think TRC is the only compnay that currently does, although a Jaco double pink is somewhat close to a GRP foam tan.
As far as rev. 4 conversions if hobby etc doesnt have them or speedmerchant's webstore you would probably have to call hobby shops that stock his product, which would include rc madness (www.rcmadness.com, I think they might ship) but I dont know of any other stores that ship off of the top of my head.
#72
Tech Initiate
Rev 4
Mark
Thanks for the reply.
Trinity makes the wheel stiffners that you are referring to AND axle spacers for use with TRC wheels which have the IN offset. Both are included with the Reflex 12.
Is the Max width 6 3/4"?
I will have my friend try RC Madness.
Tomarrow I am going to try the settings that you and Ian suggested.
Thanks again
Dave
Thanks for the reply.
Trinity makes the wheel stiffners that you are referring to AND axle spacers for use with TRC wheels which have the IN offset. Both are included with the Reflex 12.
Is the Max width 6 3/4"?
I will have my friend try RC Madness.
Tomarrow I am going to try the settings that you and Ian suggested.
Thanks again
Dave
#73
maximum width
ROAR maximum track is 172mm, which is 6.771" so 6 3/4" is very close.
#74
Tech Regular
James,
What motor/wind/gearing are you running? You car really screams down the straight and seems to run strong for 8 minutes. Hope you don't mind my asking.
What motor/wind/gearing are you running? You car really screams down the straight and seems to run strong for 8 minutes. Hope you don't mind my asking.
#75
Hey Jim,
I'm running a redline TOP (non-V2) based 9X2 with serrated Quasar brushes geared 23/100 with ~1.90" rear tires, works out to something like 36mm rollout. It was my first time running one of EJ's motors and I was really impressed. Other than that I had some killer batteries (Thank you fukuyama ), and not pulling full throttle in the inflield until the last minute.
See you at Stockton, if you need anything else let me know.
-James
I'm running a redline TOP (non-V2) based 9X2 with serrated Quasar brushes geared 23/100 with ~1.90" rear tires, works out to something like 36mm rollout. It was my first time running one of EJ's motors and I was really impressed. Other than that I had some killer batteries (Thank you fukuyama ), and not pulling full throttle in the inflield until the last minute.
See you at Stockton, if you need anything else let me know.
-James
Originally posted by jrrc
James,
What motor/wind/gearing are you running? You car really screams down the straight and seems to run strong for 8 minutes. Hope you don't mind my asking.
James,
What motor/wind/gearing are you running? You car really screams down the straight and seems to run strong for 8 minutes. Hope you don't mind my asking.