1/12th setup
#2
Tech Lord
iTrader: (103)
these were just posted in the 12th thread
http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...oting-tips.pdf
http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...etup-guide.doc
http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...oting-tips.pdf
http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...etup-guide.doc
#4
Tech Lord
iTrader: (103)
1/12TH TIPS
FRONT WIDTH
NARROW - more agressive steering
WIDER - less agressive
FRONT SPRINGS
No preload for .020 springs. E-clip preload for .018 springs.
SOFTER more steering but may dig or square up too hard. Softer springs have higher chance of collapsing.
STIFFER less steering. Do not allow the front to dive as easily. Smoothes car out on corner entry
CAMBER
MORE NEGATIVE decrease low speed and increase high speed steering. Outside tire will tend to flatten out at higher cornering speeds and have
better contact patch. 1 ½ to 2 ½ deg.
CASTER
LESS easier the car will turn. But, lose straight line stability and lose exit speed (car will not cut into a turn as well).
REACTIVE reduces caster at turn in and increases it at exit. However, can cause more tire scrub in a turn and slow you down if not set up
properly.
TOE
OUT decrease straight line stability and can make car wander but it enhances turn-in, especially on initial cut
IN increase straight line stability but make it more difficult to turn
SIDE SPRINGS
If car feels edgy, a Ό turn of preload can settle car down.
If car does not center up quick enough thru twisties, use stiffer spring.
SOFTER more side bite for rear end but will be lazier transitioning back to center
STIFFER less side bite. Faster transition, but can feel edgy.
SIDE TUBES / DAMPER DISK LUBE
Typically 10,000 ofna lube or Losi med hydra fluid
THICKER increases front traction adds steering. Slows transition and softens steering in fast sweepers. If car is double steering on power use
thicker oil to slow reaction time but if go to far you can see inside rear tire lift in tight corners.
THINNER decreases front traction decreases steering.
CENTER SHOCK
Spring/Oil combo have greater effect on net rear traction the softer the spring/oil combo the more rear grip.
POSITION
FLATTER more on-power steering (to a point)
HIGHER less on-power steering
SPRING
LIGHTER more rear traction and better control on bumpy tracks. much off power steering, little on power steering (less spinouts coming out of the
corner
STIFFER less rear traction. much on-power mid-out steering, little off power steering
OIL
Controls the front to rear grip bias.
LIGHER - balance to rear (more rear traction)
HEAVIER - balance to front (more front traction/steering).
Best use a very weak oil with a softer front tire compound, for example a magenta instead of a purple for more overall traction instead of heavy oil
and a hard front tire.
REAR POD DROOP
MORE makes car turn in harder. More hi-speed steering. Handles bumpy tracks better.
LESS or NONE car smoother into corners
SIDE LINKS (ROLL-CENTER)
RAISE raises roll center. Will increase steering.
LOWER lowers roll center. Locks rear end more.
BATTERY POSITION
FORWARD easier to drive, less steering. Less wt xfer into corners.
BACK more steering due to increase in wt xfer. Car can feel darty off-power. This coupled with longer shock (rear pod droop) makes car rotate
harder into corners by unloading rear tires.
FRONT STEERING KNUCKLES
OFFSET standard on any pancar (but oval)
INLINE huge increase in steering response. Car becomes really twitchy. Sometimes used on 10th scale roadcourse pan car.
T-BAR SHIM
UNDER FRONT BALL adds anti-squat more initial steering on entry and plants rear mid corner and exit (push)
FRONT TIRES
LESS ROUNDED EDGE makes car edgy and car want to tip over at high speed cornering situations. Can be advantageous on loose conditions
where car has no high-speed bite, tho.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Typical tuning: front tires, center spring, and front tire-dope
In general: anything that stiffens rear end adds steering
FRONT WIDTH
NARROW - more agressive steering
WIDER - less agressive
FRONT SPRINGS
No preload for .020 springs. E-clip preload for .018 springs.
SOFTER more steering but may dig or square up too hard. Softer springs have higher chance of collapsing.
STIFFER less steering. Do not allow the front to dive as easily. Smoothes car out on corner entry
CAMBER
MORE NEGATIVE decrease low speed and increase high speed steering. Outside tire will tend to flatten out at higher cornering speeds and have
better contact patch. 1 ½ to 2 ½ deg.
CASTER
LESS easier the car will turn. But, lose straight line stability and lose exit speed (car will not cut into a turn as well).
REACTIVE reduces caster at turn in and increases it at exit. However, can cause more tire scrub in a turn and slow you down if not set up
properly.
TOE
OUT decrease straight line stability and can make car wander but it enhances turn-in, especially on initial cut
IN increase straight line stability but make it more difficult to turn
SIDE SPRINGS
If car feels edgy, a Ό turn of preload can settle car down.
If car does not center up quick enough thru twisties, use stiffer spring.
SOFTER more side bite for rear end but will be lazier transitioning back to center
STIFFER less side bite. Faster transition, but can feel edgy.
SIDE TUBES / DAMPER DISK LUBE
Typically 10,000 ofna lube or Losi med hydra fluid
THICKER increases front traction adds steering. Slows transition and softens steering in fast sweepers. If car is double steering on power use
thicker oil to slow reaction time but if go to far you can see inside rear tire lift in tight corners.
THINNER decreases front traction decreases steering.
CENTER SHOCK
Spring/Oil combo have greater effect on net rear traction the softer the spring/oil combo the more rear grip.
POSITION
FLATTER more on-power steering (to a point)
HIGHER less on-power steering
SPRING
LIGHTER more rear traction and better control on bumpy tracks. much off power steering, little on power steering (less spinouts coming out of the
corner
STIFFER less rear traction. much on-power mid-out steering, little off power steering
OIL
Controls the front to rear grip bias.
LIGHER - balance to rear (more rear traction)
HEAVIER - balance to front (more front traction/steering).
Best use a very weak oil with a softer front tire compound, for example a magenta instead of a purple for more overall traction instead of heavy oil
and a hard front tire.
REAR POD DROOP
MORE makes car turn in harder. More hi-speed steering. Handles bumpy tracks better.
LESS or NONE car smoother into corners
SIDE LINKS (ROLL-CENTER)
RAISE raises roll center. Will increase steering.
LOWER lowers roll center. Locks rear end more.
BATTERY POSITION
FORWARD easier to drive, less steering. Less wt xfer into corners.
BACK more steering due to increase in wt xfer. Car can feel darty off-power. This coupled with longer shock (rear pod droop) makes car rotate
harder into corners by unloading rear tires.
FRONT STEERING KNUCKLES
OFFSET standard on any pancar (but oval)
INLINE huge increase in steering response. Car becomes really twitchy. Sometimes used on 10th scale roadcourse pan car.
T-BAR SHIM
UNDER FRONT BALL adds anti-squat more initial steering on entry and plants rear mid corner and exit (push)
FRONT TIRES
LESS ROUNDED EDGE makes car edgy and car want to tip over at high speed cornering situations. Can be advantageous on loose conditions
where car has no high-speed bite, tho.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Typical tuning: front tires, center spring, and front tire-dope
In general: anything that stiffens rear end adds steering