CamLS

iTrader: (3)

I've yet to get a V3/V4 motor mount for my Eryxx 2.0 so I need a spur with larger openings like the Durango ones. Serpent spurs work well after 3 of the hole are reamed with a body post reamer.

Thanks for the info.

Taffyjnr5

iTrader: (32)

Hi,
I have just picked up a couple of S411's for me and my son, I have raced TC previously with TCXX and Spec R so it will be good to compare chassis.....

dan_vector

iTrader: (27)

Welcome to the brand!! You'll love the cars... Enjoy!

Paulie Bee

iTrader: (2)

4 degree are stock ... correct?
Are the 2,6 degree C hubs available in stock plastic or only aluminum?

CamLS

iTrader: (3)

Yes, stock is 4° and the 2° and 6° are in aluminum only.

swerv512

iTrader: (21)

Today was an awesome day for me and the Eryx 2.0. Car handled better than a slot car. It was totally hooked up on a tight high bite asphalt track. Amazing feeling when this car is in the groove. Just sending credit where it's due to all of you who consistently give feedback and support. You guys are my factory support lol.

The FastFred

You can use these old parts with a little grinding and they work fantastic. I hear the AL bends upon impact so it's not reliable.

Need to pay attention to hub entering into a-arm so you get easy and full droop. A little relief at hub so drive train does not hit and ream out the A-arm for the larger pin. I use a drill bit for the pin size and all works great.

have photos if interested.

PS anyone have the old parts and want to sell them Im buying!

#401085 - hub
#401152 - pin
# 401035 - steel pin

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

Paul says that Yokomo c-hubs will work in the current car with some slight modification. Not sure if its the pin or the steering hub that needs to be modified. It also looks like the TC 6.2 chubs will work with some slight modification, not sure about the durability on these though. (Same pin)

swerv512

iTrader: (21)

On the topic... My front c-hub is also unbearably tight. I'm not sure if the pin hole needs reaming out or if I need to sand some material off. I notice when setting the car up that the arms are super free before installing the c-hub on the front. Once installed the movement is very tight.... Going to take a tad bit of material off around where the c-hub pin to see if that helps.

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

More information please. Is this when its installed with everything attached, Steering hub, DJC, camber links and steering linkage, or just the c-hub into the arm?

swerv512

iTrader: (21)

Gets tight once c-hub goes onto front arm, nothing else is attached at that point. The arms move up and down super free when only the front arms are attached. The moment I attach the c-hub the friction appears. The pins are very tight going in, but that is normal on all the arm hinge pins, but the balls in the mounts keep them friction-free somehow.


Edit: it feels like the arms only get friction-free once the weight of the wheels and tires are attached. When setting droop I have to push the arm down to make sure the set screw is touching the chassis. In comparison, the rear arm and upright are friction free all the time.

The FastFred

johnny anyone will x-ray fit. They have a good selection of plastics.

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

Arms should drop freely with no added weight of other components, if they dont then you have some bind somewhere in your assembly. When I assemble arms onto the chassis, once they are close to tightening the suspension mount screws, I will give them a small tap with the handle end of the wrench just to make sure everything seats in properly and there is no bind. Tighten the screws as normal and check, if there is bind loosen one of the screws slightly and give the arm a tap and tighten. There can be no bind in the arms or you will be chasing handling ghosts. The c-hub should also be free to rotate, if not some fitting may be required. What ever you do, DO NOT ream the arms, as the pins are suppose to rotate in the suspension block bushings.

If I remember correctly I think the Xray pin is larger than what we use.


Here is another tip for ill handling cars. Ive had a couple guys run their cars and have had really strange handling issues, most notable, the car wants to oversteer on exit. After going threw all the basic checks for chassis adjustments the issue continues. Both times now, it has turned out to be weak servo savers causing the cars to not come back to center. So if you have one of these weird issues, check your servo saver, it may be the culprit. I prefer the xray servo saver or the Durango HD servo saver, both of these are very similar and I will use the xray springs in the durango plastic to make a nice long horn servo saver when required.

Benzaah

iTrader: (24)

With regards to the arm and chub binding, the quality of the latest plastics is much better than what we used to deal with. It's only Every now and then you get either an arm or a c hub that's tight, like the plastic didn't set properly and it's slightly warped and binds the pin into the arm. unfortunately sounds like you have both. I've tried a few different ways to fix this over the years and if you sand the outside or ream the entire hole in the C hub it creates uneven surfaces and it will be free but will have more slop.

I've found that if you get your body reamer and lightly ream both sides of the c hub and then give the arm a very light sand just around the inside edge of the arm as pictured you can eliminate most if not all bind. I also ream the steering knuckles before I install them as I like those to be super free too.

swerv512

iTrader: (21)

I ever so slightly sanded some material from the c-hub and it no longer binds against the a-arm. Thanks for the tips.

BTW... the Durango HD servo saver works great and fits without any modification.