Serpent S411
#6661
Smaller,tight track: FDR 3.4-3.6
Large, long track: FDR 3.2-3.4
Body: Any VTA body will fit. Just reamer the holes where the posts are. Just decide how forward you like the body is. If you are an novice, I would put the front end of the body closer to the bumper than usual. That way, you get more stable rear end and less chance to break the front grill of the body during crash. But again, it depends on the body type.
Large, long track: FDR 3.2-3.4
Body: Any VTA body will fit. Just reamer the holes where the posts are. Just decide how forward you like the body is. If you are an novice, I would put the front end of the body closer to the bumper than usual. That way, you get more stable rear end and less chance to break the front grill of the body during crash. But again, it depends on the body type.
Are there any paint templates out there for VTA? I can't paint bodies to save my life so I'm looking to find an easy way to do it.
#6662
If you use 96 spur and want to make FDR 4.2 for example, 2x96/pinion=4.2 FDR. So 2x96/4.2 FDR= 45.7 pinion. So you can use 46 teeth pinion to get close to 4.2 FDR.
There are many paint schemes. But if you don't bother to make it nice, just buy one color spray paint and use it for entire body. To put some design, liquid mask or masking tape can be used.
#6663
Tech Elite
iTrader: (24)
This is another area where I keep coming back to the kit springs. I have all the xray, yoko, ride and Hpi springs. And IMO with the right tuning the kit blk grey are the money.
#6666
If it was on the front then I'd upgrade to the V2 DJC's as they won't fail you. I've personally never lost a rear CVD pin as I loctite the retaining Allen screw. The shrink wrap method in my opinion restricts the freedom of movement of the shaft when not inline with the diff out drive. If you want to do it make sure you use fairly thin heat shrink and use a piece about 8mm wide and shrink down over the pin area. Do this before installing the axle into the hub. I think the v1 DJC heat shrink covers may work...
#6667
Most 3rd party spurs fit.
#6668
Sorry to sound anal but I am a fan boy. FWIW the xray parts are about 0.5mm shorter in height than the serpent parts. So yes all your camber angles and heights will be different and the new car is that good I would imagine you will feel a difference.
This is another area where I keep coming back to the kit springs. I have all the xray, yoko, ride and Hpi springs. And IMO with the right tuning the kit blk grey are the money.
This is another area where I keep coming back to the kit springs. I have all the xray, yoko, ride and Hpi springs. And IMO with the right tuning the kit blk grey are the money.
I totally agree. There is absolutely nothing wrong with the stock Serpent parts. In actual fact I find them among the highest quality out there. Certainly on par if not better than xrays offerings. I don't really understand why people change out things as the slightly different sizes etc must have a detrimental effect on roll centers etc making it difficult to compare set ups with other 411 drivers!
I'd also agree that the kit setup black/gray is a great combo and it's always my starting point which I usually end up back with!
#6669
#6671
If it was on the front then I'd upgrade to the V2 DJC's as they won't fail you. I've personally never lost a rear CVD pin as I loctite the retaining Allen screw. The shrink wrap method in my opinion restricts the freedom of movement of the shaft when not inline with the diff out drive. If you want to do it make sure you use fairly thin heat shrink and use a piece about 8mm wide and shrink down over the pin area. Do this before installing the axle into the hub. I think the v1 DJC heat shrink covers may work...
Ultimately the new clip type are the best to use, but make sure you have the spring clips rotating the proper direction when using them.
#6672
The shrink wrap method just isn't for me as there are better ways to do it. Using the notched pins or dremeling your own notch in the existing pin with decent thread lock should be all that's needed. I've never lost a pin on my 411 in either mod or stock.
#6673
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Serpent has pins that are notched already or just dremel a notch into the ones you have. As far as the shrink wrap, I have to disagree on using the really thin stuff, as I used to do that and actually had a pin rip threw the thin shrink wrap. I have found that the shrink wrap that is slightly thicker, usually has a insulator in it makes for a much better pin retainer as the wrap sets up and feels a little stiffer than a thin shrink wrap. Not sure how your shrink wrap is restricting the movement as, if done correctly, it shouldn't effect the articulation of the joint at all.
Ultimately the new clip type are the best to use, but make sure you have the spring clips rotating the proper direction when using them.
Ultimately the new clip type are the best to use, but make sure you have the spring clips rotating the proper direction when using them.
#6674
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
Benzaah,
I totally agree. There is absolutely nothing wrong with the stock Serpent parts. In actual fact I find them among the highest quality out there. Certainly on par if not better than xrays offerings. I don't really understand why people change out things as the slightly different sizes etc must have a detrimental effect on roll centers etc making it difficult to compare set ups with other 411 drivers!
I'd also agree that the kit setup black/gray is a great combo and it's always my starting point which I usually end up back with!
I totally agree. There is absolutely nothing wrong with the stock Serpent parts. In actual fact I find them among the highest quality out there. Certainly on par if not better than xrays offerings. I don't really understand why people change out things as the slightly different sizes etc must have a detrimental effect on roll centers etc making it difficult to compare set ups with other 411 drivers!
I'd also agree that the kit setup black/gray is a great combo and it's always my starting point which I usually end up back with!
Saying 3rd party parts can't be used due to geometry/dynamics reasons is one thing, but to say they can't be used just because of the manufacturers name seems a little farfetched. Everyone I knows uses the Xray Hard foam bumper as the stock Serpent foam bumper is far too soft for the hard track boards that we use. Broken front suspension parts dropped significantly once I switched to the Xray hard bumper.
#6675
I never said there was anything wrong with the stock Serpent parts, I was simply looking for alternates to use as the stock ones can be difficult to source locally in town (LHS doesn't stock any TC brand parts), let alone in Canada. I'm not sponsored, so I don't exactly have the resources to stock spares of every single little part of my Serpent TC's.
Saying 3rd party parts can't be used due to geometry/dynamics reasons is one thing, but to say they can't be used just because of the manufacturers name seems a little farfetched. Everyone I knows uses the Xray Hard foam bumper as the stock Serpent foam bumper is far too soft for the hard track boards that we use. Broken front suspension parts dropped significantly once I switched to the Xray hard bumper.
Saying 3rd party parts can't be used due to geometry/dynamics reasons is one thing, but to say they can't be used just because of the manufacturers name seems a little farfetched. Everyone I knows uses the Xray Hard foam bumper as the stock Serpent foam bumper is far too soft for the hard track boards that we use. Broken front suspension parts dropped significantly once I switched to the Xray hard bumper.