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Old 08-05-2014, 03:49 PM
  #6661  
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Originally Posted by snuvet75
Smaller,tight track: FDR 3.4-3.6
Large, long track: FDR 3.2-3.4
Body: Any VTA body will fit. Just reamer the holes where the posts are. Just decide how forward you like the body is. If you are an novice, I would put the front end of the body closer to the bumper than usual. That way, you get more stable rear end and less chance to break the front grill of the body during crash. But again, it depends on the body type.
Awesome thanks. I'll do some more research on figuring out the FDR. I know what it is but not how to use it.

Are there any paint templates out there for VTA? I can't paint bodies to save my life so I'm looking to find an easy way to do it.
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Old 08-05-2014, 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by FullMetalGrave
Awesome thanks. I'll do some more research on figuring out the FDR. I know what it is but not how to use it.

Are there any paint templates out there for VTA? I can't paint bodies to save my life so I'm looking to find an easy way to do it.
FDR (final drive ratio)= DTR( drive train ratio) x Spur teeth number/pinion teeth number. S411 DTR is 2.
If you use 96 spur and want to make FDR 4.2 for example, 2x96/pinion=4.2 FDR. So 2x96/4.2 FDR= 45.7 pinion. So you can use 46 teeth pinion to get close to 4.2 FDR.

There are many paint schemes. But if you don't bother to make it nice, just buy one color spray paint and use it for entire body. To put some design, liquid mask or masking tape can be used.
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Old 08-06-2014, 03:21 AM
  #6663  
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Originally Posted by CamLS
Sorry, I didn't know I wasn't allowed to run any 3rd party parts on my Serpent cars. Not like tie rods and ball studs are going to change the dynamics of the cars, but your concern is noted.
Sorry to sound anal but I am a fan boy. FWIW the xray parts are about 0.5mm shorter in height than the serpent parts. So yes all your camber angles and heights will be different and the new car is that good I would imagine you will feel a difference.

Originally Posted by Adam B
A lot of people run other companies products. Springs for one.
This is another area where I keep coming back to the kit springs. I have all the xray, yoko, ride and Hpi springs. And IMO with the right tuning the kit blk grey are the money.
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Old 08-10-2014, 06:55 PM
  #6664  
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Hey Guys,
Looking at buying the 411 ERYX 3.0 and have a couple of questions:

Which springs come with the kit?

What brand of spur gears fit these apart from genuine Serpent (need super small ones for 21.5, 48 pitch 55-60T)?

Thanks guys
Simon
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Old 08-10-2014, 09:12 PM
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Anyone have a picture of the shrink-wrap cvd pin retainer? It would help me understand exactly how to do it. Lost pin cost me a main today that sucked.
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Old 08-11-2014, 04:50 AM
  #6666  
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Originally Posted by scooby61
Anyone have a picture of the shrink-wrap cvd pin retainer? It would help me understand exactly how to do it. Lost pin cost me a main today that sucked.
If it was on the front then I'd upgrade to the V2 DJC's as they won't fail you. I've personally never lost a rear CVD pin as I loctite the retaining Allen screw. The shrink wrap method in my opinion restricts the freedom of movement of the shaft when not inline with the diff out drive. If you want to do it make sure you use fairly thin heat shrink and use a piece about 8mm wide and shrink down over the pin area. Do this before installing the axle into the hub. I think the v1 DJC heat shrink covers may work...
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Old 08-11-2014, 04:55 AM
  #6667  
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Originally Posted by pullstarter
Hey Guys,
Looking at buying the 411 ERYX 3.0 and have a couple of questions:

Which springs come with the kit?

What brand of spur gears fit these apart from genuine Serpent (need super small ones for 21.5, 48 pitch 55-60T)?

Thanks guys
Simon
Serpent Gray and Black 23mm TC springs come with the kit. The 2.0 had just grays.

Most 3rd party spurs fit.
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Old 08-11-2014, 04:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Benzaah
Sorry to sound anal but I am a fan boy. FWIW the xray parts are about 0.5mm shorter in height than the serpent parts. So yes all your camber angles and heights will be different and the new car is that good I would imagine you will feel a difference.



This is another area where I keep coming back to the kit springs. I have all the xray, yoko, ride and Hpi springs. And IMO with the right tuning the kit blk grey are the money.
Benzaah,

I totally agree. There is absolutely nothing wrong with the stock Serpent parts. In actual fact I find them among the highest quality out there. Certainly on par if not better than xrays offerings. I don't really understand why people change out things as the slightly different sizes etc must have a detrimental effect on roll centers etc making it difficult to compare set ups with other 411 drivers!

I'd also agree that the kit setup black/gray is a great combo and it's always my starting point which I usually end up back with!
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Old 08-11-2014, 05:02 AM
  #6669  
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Originally Posted by FullMetalGrave
Awesome thanks. I'll do some more research on figuring out the FDR. I know what it is but not how to use it.

Are there any paint templates out there for VTA? I can't paint bodies to save my life so I'm looking to find an easy way to do it.
On the 411 just go by Serpents handy FDR table!

http://serpent.com/file.php?FileID=5257
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Old 08-11-2014, 05:26 AM
  #6670  
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Originally Posted by dan_vector
Serpent Gray and Black 23mm TC springs come with the kit. The 2.0 had just grays.

Most 3rd party spurs fit.
Thanks Dan much appreciated.
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Old 08-11-2014, 10:04 AM
  #6671  
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Originally Posted by scooby61
Anyone have a picture of the shrink-wrap cvd pin retainer? It would help me understand exactly how to do it. Lost pin cost me a main today that sucked.
Originally Posted by dan_vector
If it was on the front then I'd upgrade to the V2 DJC's as they won't fail you. I've personally never lost a rear CVD pin as I loctite the retaining Allen screw. The shrink wrap method in my opinion restricts the freedom of movement of the shaft when not inline with the diff out drive. If you want to do it make sure you use fairly thin heat shrink and use a piece about 8mm wide and shrink down over the pin area. Do this before installing the axle into the hub. I think the v1 DJC heat shrink covers may work...
Serpent has pins that are notched already or just dremel a notch into the ones you have. As far as the shrink wrap, I have to disagree on using the really thin stuff, as I used to do that and actually had a pin rip threw the thin shrink wrap. I have found that the shrink wrap that is slightly thicker, usually has a insulator in it makes for a much better pin retainer as the wrap sets up and feels a little stiffer than a thin shrink wrap. Not sure how your shrink wrap is restricting the movement as, if done correctly, it shouldn't effect the articulation of the joint at all.

Ultimately the new clip type are the best to use, but make sure you have the spring clips rotating the proper direction when using them.
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Old 08-11-2014, 02:49 PM
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The shrink wrap method just isn't for me as there are better ways to do it. Using the notched pins or dremeling your own notch in the existing pin with decent thread lock should be all that's needed. I've never lost a pin on my 411 in either mod or stock.
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Old 08-11-2014, 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone
Serpent has pins that are notched already or just dremel a notch into the ones you have. As far as the shrink wrap, I have to disagree on using the really thin stuff, as I used to do that and actually had a pin rip threw the thin shrink wrap. I have found that the shrink wrap that is slightly thicker, usually has a insulator in it makes for a much better pin retainer as the wrap sets up and feels a little stiffer than a thin shrink wrap. Not sure how your shrink wrap is restricting the movement as, if done correctly, it shouldn't effect the articulation of the joint at all.

Ultimately the new clip type are the best to use, but make sure you have the spring clips rotating the proper direction when using them.
Haven't seen the clip type. I already have the notched pins but bought the chassis used so not sure if the builder thread locked the set screws. I'm going take them all apart and I ordered the top racing cvd retainers I think this should take care of the issue right?
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Old 08-11-2014, 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by dan_vector
Benzaah,

I totally agree. There is absolutely nothing wrong with the stock Serpent parts. In actual fact I find them among the highest quality out there. Certainly on par if not better than xrays offerings. I don't really understand why people change out things as the slightly different sizes etc must have a detrimental effect on roll centers etc making it difficult to compare set ups with other 411 drivers!

I'd also agree that the kit setup black/gray is a great combo and it's always my starting point which I usually end up back with!
I never said there was anything wrong with the stock Serpent parts, I was simply looking for alternates to use as the stock ones can be difficult to source locally in town (LHS doesn't stock any TC brand parts), let alone in Canada. I'm not sponsored, so I don't exactly have the resources to stock spares of every single little part of my Serpent TC's.

Saying 3rd party parts can't be used due to geometry/dynamics reasons is one thing, but to say they can't be used just because of the manufacturers name seems a little farfetched. Everyone I knows uses the Xray Hard foam bumper as the stock Serpent foam bumper is far too soft for the hard track boards that we use. Broken front suspension parts dropped significantly once I switched to the Xray hard bumper.
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Old 08-11-2014, 03:27 PM
  #6675  
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Originally Posted by dan_vector
The shrink wrap method just isn't for me as there are better ways to do it. Using the notched pins or dremeling your own notch in the existing pin with decent thread lock should be all that's needed. I've never lost a pin on my 411 in either mod or stock.
But if we are talking about the DJC there are no set screws used, so the only alternative is the shrink wrap or the spring clips. Please share your better way for pin retention.

Originally Posted by CamLS
I never said there was anything wrong with the stock Serpent parts, I was simply looking for alternates to use as the stock ones can be difficult to source locally in town (LHS doesn't stock any TC brand parts), let alone in Canada. I'm not sponsored, so I don't exactly have the resources to stock spares of every single little part of my Serpent TC's.

Saying 3rd party parts can't be used due to geometry/dynamics reasons is one thing, but to say they can't be used just because of the manufacturers name seems a little farfetched. Everyone I knows uses the Xray Hard foam bumper as the stock Serpent foam bumper is far too soft for the hard track boards that we use. Broken front suspension parts dropped significantly once I switched to the Xray hard bumper.
Cam I'm using the stock Serpent bumper, even my car you ran in Calgary was on the stock bumper. Don't sweat the rest, you have to use what works for you, but I can say I'm 100% on all stock Serpent parts on the new car, its just some things need to be used in the right places.
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