BigRon

iTrader: (22)

Will the hole need to be drilled deeper?

BCDK

Hi.

I think, you have tighten the set up screw in the arm too much or you have tighten the shock mount too much.

If you tighten those two too much, you can easaly pull the set up screw out of the arms.

The set up screw must be screwed in until you can't anymore. Then stop. The shock mount you have to tighten with a "loose hand". Not overtighten it, otherwise you pull the set up screw out. You can try on an old arm, how easy it is to do wrong.

To avoid the shock mount to get loose on the set up screw, you can use a small drop of Loctite.

You can fix the hole for the set up screw in the arms. Put a drop of ca glue into the hole and let it dry. Now you can fasten the set up screw again.

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

I agree with BCDK, sounds like a longer set screw is needed. I know in the kit there are quite a few different lengths included, so possible they got swapped round during the build.
In the arms it should be an M3x8, this should leave around 3mm or so of thread poking out the arm.

On another random point tonight, I've been doing some comparison of the Eryx vs TE, mainly to check some things out next time I hit the track.

First up, I had a quick look at the battery position. As has been noted before, the kit Eryx has the battery moved back by about 2mm compared to the TE...add in turning the mounts around, and the battery is moved over 5mm back in the full back Eryx position, compared to the full forward TE. Doesn't sound like much, but I couldn't get on with the backward position on the TE (hence always running the battery forward), but on the Eryx I found it much faster, without getting loose...

The next thing I had a play around with was springs again, and I'm pretty sure (although this was all down by calibrated hand on pit table ) that using the same springs front and rear isn't a good idea for the Eryx... let me explain.
Basically, I fitted the TE and Eryx with the same springs (Ride Blue F, Yellow R), put kit shock positions on both cars (Holes 3F 4R... although I already know they aren't quite the same). When doing a pushdown test, the Eryx felt both a lot softer on the front, and a little harder on the rear the TE.
Interestingly, I switched the TE back to the same spring F&R (Ride Green), and it felt very similar to the Eryx with the Blue/Yellow. A smidge softer on the front, and very similar on the rear. Moving the Eryx to hole 2 on the front tower, and both cars felt almost exactly the same on the table.
Obviously, this is only a guestimation based on a push test, but I think the findings were pretty interesting. I do know that I'll be leaving the Blue/Yellow combo on the car to start with this weekend, as the rates give a similar split (albeit softer all round) to the HPI Pink/Silver I ended up on last time out....

Anyway, brain dump over... boy this rain is getting boring!
Ed

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

Big Ron, I have to agree with the other two on this, as I just watched one of our new racers do the same thing. Its just a matter of over tightening the shock ball to the setscrew in the arm. These don't have to be cranked down just snugged up. The good thing is the new hard arms are quite a bit harder so less likely to pull threads.

For those of you that happened to read my build suggestions, I purposely left the link measurements long as I always find that from the book they seem so short that you can collapse the inner portion of the ball cup and just cause unneeded bind problems. In any matter the final link lengths are as follows;
Page 21, A25 - 22.85mm
Page 23, A30 - 24.80mm
Page 27, A38 - 10.00mm
Page 30, A47 - 12.45mm

Also a couple other items that could help the car. on page 14, A13 for the front spool, I like to run the gear on the spool assembly so the big gear washer is on the long side of the spool. I do this so that if you need to pull the belt off to clean the gear, you don't have to pull the belt over the gear edge, just pop the washer off the gear and slip the belt off. This becomes more apparent because the lock collar for the torsion bar gets in the way when you try to get over the gear edge.

Speaking of the spool, another thing I do especially when I run the DJC in the car, is to run a small o-ring inside the spool cup, this just give a slight cushion when the axles are shifting back and forth, it probably does nothing, but the small chatter I see in older units seems cushioned a bit. Still run the grease in the cups though, and if your outside, I would run shrink wrap on the cups just to keep the grease in better and the car cleaner in general.

Ed, I finally got a chance to do some testing on the new car, on carpet mind you, but I can confirm that my magic combo on the old car used the same springs front and back, usually greys. The new car really prefers a spring split, in Serpent springs a one step split works the best. So I'd say your correct in your bench test. Interestingly the stock suggested setup is pretty close for my tracks carpet. The springs worked, but I ended up going lighter all around on them. But the roll center settings are darn close. The only big change I had to do was changing the rear upper link roll center. Other than that the car is very good. The arms are really strong as I managed to stress test them a few times and haven't broke one yet.

gerg

Maybe you have the gear washer on backwards. When I first assembled mine, I put it on the wrong way, and it does tend to catch on the front belt. When it's on the correct way, it will guide the belt back onto the diff.......... check it.

jeff jenkins

iTrader: (84)

Well the belt does seem loose but I will double check the washer which I am assuming is the ring that snaps onto the spool pulley?

corallyman

iTrader: (101)

I think that is what happened to you Jeff, I had my washer backwards when we were playing with my car two weeks ago. That's what was causing the occasional click in the front. Switched the belt guide around and it solved it.

I am thinking that since your belt jumped off, make sure it didn't stretch slightly.

jeff jenkins

iTrader: (84)

I just didn't notice a difference between the sides when I was building it. So probably is on wrong.

corallyman

iTrader: (101)

Eryx 2.0 question, how long did you guys' make your shocks? End of plastic to the other end of plastic. Just curious because in other areas the manual being incorrect.

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

I measure mine the way the manual suggests, in fact I always measure shocks that way as well, find it more consistent. 11mm gives enough stroke to achieve a gauged 3mm on rear droop, I have never run more than that (normally use 4.0-5.0 on the gauge).

Having said that, I think all mine are now at 10.5mm, mainly as I don't use that much droop

TheZoof

I finished building my ERYX 2.0 kit yesterday.

Overall it was a good build and I like the improvements over my S411SE that I have raced the last year.

I have two major problems though that I have sent an email to Serpent about.

1. One of the shock shaft threads(that hold piston) is too small. The nut just slides on it rather than thread. I was able to use an e-clip to hold it on for now, however it will be on my mind if the car does weird things.

2. One of my DJC(bought separately from the car) front cvd is not the right size. It seems that the machining wasn't perfect and the axle output size is about .2mm larger than it should be. I can't fit my Hudy setup wheels onto it. Thankfully, I can push the car hex on with some effort. Definitely not good though.

Looking forward to racing it on the weekend. I hope Serpent takes care of me as a loyal customer who has owned their products for many years.

Should be noted - This is the first time I have had issues with a Serpent product.

corallyman

iTrader: (101)

Thanks for the answer Ed, I followed the manual or at least I meant too. I will double check later today. I think my rear shocks might be shorter than they need to be for the settings that I currently have on the car. Despite a slight rush job to get the car running, it was still pretty good. I really like the Eryx.

Steve

zoomster

Hi TheZoof.
Part 2-I had the same problem ,just could not get my setup wheel onto the shaft,a very quick fix and it worked out well was to remove the hex and pin,turn the car on ,move the trim on the throttle of the transmitter so the shaft is now turning,and using some wet and dry sanding paper just lightly sand the shaft,remember the hex is what is aligning the wheel ,the step level is not used,it only took a few seconds,now all good.

TheZoof

Thank you for the tip. I understand how to fix it however on a new product, this shouldn't be necessary. Especially on $75 cvd units. I will see what Serpent has to say before making my own fix. I would expect them to send me the individual part of the out-drive that is manufactured incorrectly, at minimum.

There is always solution to a problem, except I should certainly get what I paid for before using it.

jimjav

iTrader: (1)

I am having some issues during the built of the eryx,

I have too much side to side movement in the midle axle, I am talking about 2 mm, I have also the same issue in the spool. For the spool I have try another set of eccentrics that I have as spare in my toolbox and the results is the same. For the middle axle I will tray another sets of bearing but I donīt belive that this will resolve the problem

Anyone has the same problems? Ideas for solution?

My first impresions abour the few things that I have built is that the gear diff it's so good, and the new arms seem quite better

regards