whityboy

iTrader: (1)

these are the parts you need.

401583 Shocktower carbon low front 411
401584 Shocktower carbon low rear 411
401585 Suspension bracket alu 0-2 mirror
401586 Spacer alu bracket 0.5 (4)
401587 Suspension bracket alu 1.0 - 1.0
401588 Steering post low steel (2)
401589 Servo-mount direct 411
401590 Chassis carbon 2.25
401592 Geardiff V2 composite
401593 Outdrive alu for geardiff V2 composite (2)
401594 Diff gear 10T+18T for geardiff V2 composite (4+2)
401595 Geardiff x-shaft for geardiff V2 composite
160124 super short shocks x2

not included the new arms
it will be close to 2/3 of a new car if you need to buy everything separately i think

Benzaah

iTrader: (24)

These are the parts I'm going to order for my current S411.

401583 Shocktower carbon low front 411
401584 Shocktower carbon low rear 411

401588 Steering post low steel (2)
401589 Servo-mount direct 411

160124 super short shock


I don't see the point in updating the whole list as just posted Otherwise it's a better investment to sell a roller and get a new kit IMO

gearhead_22

iTrader: (10)

the 411 ERXY 2.0 is on the market http://www.rc-mushroom.com/product_i...ar-kit-p-26088 now we need this in the USA

Paolo M

The ERYX will land in USA on Monday. Call your LHS or contact Desoto Racing.

Team Serpent will be present at the Snowbirds and at the Indoor Nationals.

gearhead_22

iTrader: (10)

thanks paolo see you at the nats.

R3VoLuTiOn

iTrader: (29)

Any thoughts on the next name?

Serpent S420? S412?

Jim Frahm

iTrader: (68)

Thanks for the update! I already own a S411LE and S411 with V2 parts but I still plan on buying the ERYX. It cost a lot more to update a car versus just buying a new kit, that and you can always use a lot of the parts from the other two cars. I'll use the ERYX in TC class and the other car/s will be my VTA ride.

Jim

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

You can strike one part off, as the servo mount direct already comes with the short posts

valk

iTrader: (13)

silly question but the new servo style will bolt up to an older chassis? didnt i hear something about a lowered layshaft? did they make shorter layshaft carriers or no?

will these new plastics replace the existing ones or do we have to look for a specific sku?

ps... gonna try running the shocks upsidedown tomorrow. seems like a cheaper way to lower the cg ha.

AUSCAN

iTrader: (6)

Is anyone out there running a Reedy in 21.5 blinky? I've been struggling a bit with gearing and motor temps. The track I regularly race on is low grip and technical. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

From the serpent site, the new steering set comes with everything to mount it existing chassis (from original V1), including the lowered steering posts.

The new layshafts aren't lowered, just looks like the rear top deck mounts are machined 1mm lower, which can be taken up with shims.
The lowered mounts don't appear have a new part numbers (looking at the manual), so suspect this will be a rolling change.

As for new plastics (all taken from the manuals)
Old 'kit' (soft) arms - R 401393, F 401397
Old 'Medium' arms - R 401460, F 401459
Old 'Hard' arms - R 401453, F 401452

New rears are 401460, Front arms 401459... so again going to be a running change again by all accounts.

Not sure on testing the shocks upside down mind, you'll be adding to the unsprung weight on the arms.

Regards
Ed

Geberit

Which parts do you use to mount the rear long ARB?

Thanks!

valk

iTrader: (13)

so just the shocks and steering you have the new car form a te. that's more reasonable than $489 lol.

Im sure the split blocks would be nice but you could probably achieve the same effect using urethane spacers instead of the metal ones on the old style arm mounts.

but that makes for a lot of sku's for chassis parts. are the new chassis plates going to be compatible with the old arm mount location for those of us who might want to keep older cars running?
I don't really wanna get into having to buy more than one chassis plate or top deck in addition to the car..
though. i guess if I ever get to the competitive level some of you guys are running, i might have a different outlook on that ha.

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

How long is the track? What are the temps your getting? What are you running for a fdr? Are you running a fan on the motor?

Let us know and we'll try and help you out.

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

As I'm looking at the bottom of the chassis screw holes, I'm going to guess that you will be able to run either the split mounts or the 1 piece mounts inboard on the new chassis.

I actually made my own split block car from a original kit and it works pretty well. I can see that the new blocks do give better support for twist by using screws on either side of the pin, opposed to mine , that has the two screws on the inside of the pin. My modded car is okay as long as you stay off the boards.