16LikesSerpent S411
08-30-2012, 05:28 AM
#4111
Hi.
About leaking diffs. and the big O-ring.
All new batch of diffs. are delivered with a new big O-ring. The new O-ring is made of silicone (same material as the x-ring in the diffs.) and is slightly bigger in the material than the old black one. I have no leaking at all with the new O-ring. Soon you can order the new O-ring as a spare part. Serpent told me, that they should be available this week. I don't know the order no. yet.
With the old black O-ring you can use Asso greenslime to prevent leaking as some other mentioned. It really helps. Also be sure to tighten the screws even not to flex the diff. cups.
When I assemble the diff. i sand all gears on the backside. Especially the two big metal gears, as I want to have slightly less pressure on the x-ring to let the outdrives run smoother. Then I use Tamiya blue damper grease on the x-ring, but you can also use Asso greenslime. As I wrote above, I have no problems with leaking.
About leaking diffs. and the big O-ring.
All new batch of diffs. are delivered with a new big O-ring. The new O-ring is made of silicone (same material as the x-ring in the diffs.) and is slightly bigger in the material than the old black one. I have no leaking at all with the new O-ring. Soon you can order the new O-ring as a spare part. Serpent told me, that they should be available this week. I don't know the order no. yet.
With the old black O-ring you can use Asso greenslime to prevent leaking as some other mentioned. It really helps. Also be sure to tighten the screws even not to flex the diff. cups.
When I assemble the diff. i sand all gears on the backside. Especially the two big metal gears, as I want to have slightly less pressure on the x-ring to let the outdrives run smoother. Then I use Tamiya blue damper grease on the x-ring, but you can also use Asso greenslime. As I wrote above, I have no problems with leaking.
Cheers
Ed
08-30-2012, 05:32 AM
#4112
The older kits come with orange/yellow.... I can't remember for the TE, but orange/yellow is too stiff in my opinion. My favorite Serpent spring combinations have been grays (14.8) front and rear, OR gray front and white (13.0) rear.
Black (16.0) front and grey rear is a good combo, too, but I typically like the car to be really smooth.
As for swaybars..... 1.2 rear/1.4 front is the default.
Black (16.0) front and grey rear is a good combo, too, but I typically like the car to be really smooth.
As for swaybars..... 1.2 rear/1.4 front is the default.
08-30-2012, 05:36 AM
#4113
All Serpent 1/10 eTC kits come with Orange/Yellow, including the Sport and FF
Kind of seems like someone thinks that is the magic sping combo... ( not for most people ).
Kind of seems like someone thinks that is the magic sping combo... ( not for most people ).
The older kits come with orange/yellow.... I can't remember for the TE, but orange/yellow is too stiff in my opinion. My favorite Serpent spring combinations have been grays (14.8) front and rear, OR gray front and white (13.0) rear.
Black (16.0) front and grey rear is a good combo, too, but I typically like the car to be really smooth.
As for swaybars..... 1.2 rear/1.4 front is the default.
Black (16.0) front and grey rear is a good combo, too, but I typically like the car to be really smooth.
As for swaybars..... 1.2 rear/1.4 front is the default.
08-30-2012, 06:57 AM
#4114
Tech Apprentice
Please also note, that the diff. house has been slightly developed. If you have a diff. house from one of the first TE production, you can have problems with the diff. like leaking or odd action. Recently I bought a new diff., and this diff. has a different action than my diff. from the TE kit - more free and smoother action. The new diff. comes with the new silicone O-ring.
08-30-2012, 08:08 AM
#4115
Tech Apprentice
Diif Issues
when building the diff make sure you drill the closed end of the screw hole so that trapped oil can get out.
when building the diff make sure you sand the flat sides so that they fit flush to each other. I noticed some had mold flashes that causes leaks and wobbly movement.
do not overfill your diff.
when building the diff make sure you sand the flat sides so that they fit flush to each other. I noticed some had mold flashes that causes leaks and wobbly movement.
do not overfill your diff.
About the big o-ring, I took a spare diff last week end, and the oring is already the new white one. I couln'd notice any dimension change, but perhaps my foult. Double check next work time.
Thank you by now for the support.
Lets prepare the Snakes to our National in November here in Brazil.
You are welcome here.
Cestari
08-30-2012, 02:02 PM
#4116
Its realy make sense. The hydraulic lock can be the rooth cause of this leaking issues. Let's use the drill to try to solve it.
About the big o-ring, I took a spare diff last week end, and the oring is already the new white one. I couln'd notice any dimension change, but perhaps my foult. Double check next work time.
Thank you by now for the support.
Lets prepare the Snakes to our National in November here in Brazil.
You are welcome here.
Cestari
About the big o-ring, I took a spare diff last week end, and the oring is already the new white one. I couln'd notice any dimension change, but perhaps my foult. Double check next work time.
Thank you by now for the support.
Lets prepare the Snakes to our National in November here in Brazil.
You are welcome here.
Cestari
one is black the other clear. and I really cant measure the damn things as they are soft. but we know the issue was not the orings as we have diffs without o rings and they dont leak. when you look at your diff while spinning if it wobbles they it will leak. that has always been the case with the diffs we seen built. the ones that run true only leaks from the outdrives after some use.
08-31-2012, 08:57 PM
#4117
Its realy make sense. The hydraulic lock can be the rooth cause of this leaking issues. Let's use the drill to try to solve it.
About the big o-ring, I took a spare diff last week end, and the oring is already the new white one. I couln'd notice any dimension change, but perhaps my foult. Double check next work time.
Thank you by now for the support.
Lets prepare the Snakes to our National in November here in Brazil.
You are welcome here.
Cestari
About the big o-ring, I took a spare diff last week end, and the oring is already the new white one. I couln'd notice any dimension change, but perhaps my foult. Double check next work time.
Thank you by now for the support.
Lets prepare the Snakes to our National in November here in Brazil.
You are welcome here.
Cestari
The wobble diffs where a problem for sure with the first batch of TE cars but was suppose to be rectified.
08-31-2012, 08:59 PM
#4118
You have photos 
send for me - [email protected]
send for me - [email protected]I haven't forgot about the pics but the first ones I took are absolutely terrible........I really need a better camera and lessons on how to use one.
08-31-2012, 11:34 PM
#4119
Ok, I thought about this for a while now, and my biggest question is, why are you putting diff lube in the screw holes? I guess I just don't understand........when I fill the diff I only fill to the top of the small gear cross pin, any more and it just gets pushed out, which I guess could cause your hydraulic lock issue with the screw, but this would also mean its over filled anyways.
The wobble diffs where a problem for sure with the first batch of TE cars but was suppose to be rectified.
The wobble diffs where a problem for sure with the first batch of TE cars but was suppose to be rectified.
09-01-2012, 02:10 PM
#4121
I'd get the spring set.... the orange and yellow are a little stiff to start with. Also, spare knuckles and caster blocks just in case, like any TC. Honestly the only part I've broke on the car this year was a driveshaft coupling, and the occasional driveshaft blade.
09-01-2012, 02:48 PM
#4122
Tech Regular
iTrader: (12)
Carpet or asphalt? I'm not sure what compound of parts the TE comes with, but the hard plastic parts work great in most situations. The soft parts can tame the car down a little bit, but develop slop easier so you may find yourself replacing the casters/knuckles more often as they wear out.
I'd get the spring set.... the orange and yellow are a little stiff to start with. Also, spare knuckles and caster blocks just in case, like any TC. Honestly the only part I've broke on the car this year was a driveshaft coupling, and the occasional driveshaft blade.
I'd get the spring set.... the orange and yellow are a little stiff to start with. Also, spare knuckles and caster blocks just in case, like any TC. Honestly the only part I've broke on the car this year was a driveshaft coupling, and the occasional driveshaft blade.
Thanks 1airborne
09-01-2012, 04:14 PM
#4123
Th best combo I've found, and I believe Johhny Wishbone agrees, is the 2.25mm chassis and 2.5 upper deck. If you run mod you might try the 2.0 upper deck for a bit more midcorner grip. Definitely get hard arms if you don't have them already.... they make the biggest difference. The other hard suspension parts also help but I wouldn't worry about replacing them until the stock parts break.
09-01-2012, 05:23 PM
#4124
Tech Regular
iTrader: (12)
Th best combo I've found, and I believe Johhny Wishbone agrees, is the 2.25mm chassis and 2.5 upper deck. If you run mod you might try the 2.0 upper deck for a bit more midcorner grip. Definitely get hard arms if you don't have them already.... they make the biggest difference. The other hard suspension parts also help but I wouldn't worry about replacing them until the stock parts break.
Thanks 1airborne