JETT

iTrader: (3)

Thanks TIM. Did you use spool in front and what rear diff oil did you settle with?

Kensei

Martin joined Serpent Team at the end of last year, I think.
And he is a gonner already?!
Well that marriage didn't last very long!
How come?

cwoods34

iTrader: (10)

Just wasn't feeling it anymore..... If he's like the rest of us, the bug will start biting again soon

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

From what we have heard, Martin has taken on a new project that has taken him away from RC for a while...........nothing to do with the car.

Pattojnr

iTrader: (19)

here is a different view. i must say thanks to Rodney for sitting at the end of the straight, to have a car come at you at over 110k/hr just 2 mts from you is pretty ballsy.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M5H_1...ature=youtu.be

TimPotter

iTrader: (15)

Spool front 800wt in diff

Kensei

Manual says 1,200 cst. What track conditions does Serpent mean here?
What best to use on
- low traction tarmac
- medium traction tarmac

How about this XRay info? Any good for the S411?
LOW-TRACTION
600cst
700cst
800cst
Note : softer oil increases rear traction,
harder oil increases on-power steering.
HIGH-TRACTION
900cst
1000cst
2000cst

What pinion gears best to use? (the ones on the Serpent website are too big for me)
Are the spur gears on the Serpent website any good?
Any alternatives?
Would these fit? http://www.rc-mushroom.com/advanced_...sort=1a&page=1

Do I need any special tools, that are not in the kit, to build this car?

gearhead_22

iTrader: (10)

[quote=Johnny Wishbone;10915772]I have not found a Serpent pivot ball with a longer shank. I changed out my outer pivot for a xray link and ball that allows you to use a screw so you can get more thread into the meat of the rear upright.[/qu


I solved my problem, I put the v2 steering rack and took the ball ends from the v1 steering system and a couple of 6mm grubs screws and put the ballends on top with plenty of thread in the rear up rights

gearhead_22

iTrader: (10)

now with the v2 steering system what does adding spacers to move the akerman foward or leave it back do?

TimPotter

iTrader: (15)

The X-ray info is good. I would start with 600 on low traction. Get the car close, then work on the diff. Not sure who makes the serpent gears , but they are nice, I have not had any noticeable problems with them.

No special tools needed

Kensei

Thanks for the info.

What brand of pinion gears best to use on this car?
(the ones on the Serpent website are too big for me. Need FDR from 3.5 to 4.5)

So the Serpent spurs are good.
Any alternatives?
Would these fit? http://www.rc-mushroom.com/advanced_...sort=1a&page=1

orcadigital

iTrader: (61)

Spur or pinion? Get a spur in the 92-96 range and you will be running pinions between 45-55, all which fit. I am running a Core RC spur right now (RW Xray) and have used Xray and Serpent in the past. All are quality gears. Running a 94 spur currently in VTA (96 in 17.5 blinky TC). Should have no problem getting into your FDR range.

For pinions, I am using CRC and PRS. Both work well, the CRC seem lighter, both super quiet. This is all 64 pitch of course.

Kensei

Thanks for the info.
Sorry my bad, but I forgot to mention it has to be 48 pitch.
Any comments on that matter?
Thanks again.

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

I got to run my car this past weekend, and I can't agree with Ryan more.
As I noted earlier, I had a real struggle building the shocks initially, and switched out the bladders before running. During the first run, I also drilled the top, and again that improved the car... quite a lot, with a very different (better!) feeling on track. Bladders are TAM53576 for those interested.

Anyway, back to the first run.... Having been pretty busy and not had a lot of opportunity to race recently, I headed into the weekend with limited preperation, and making it slightly harder by running mod, and at a new track too... deep end anyone

Anyway, I made up a list of stuff to run through during the day. This consisted mostly of major changes, and leaving the geometry alone, mainly as the geometry is something that doesn't seem to change too much over a number of setups.

First up was the V1 vs V2 (one-piece) motor mount.. felt that the car was more locked in and consistent with the V2, so left that on the car for the rest of the day.

Next up was a load of Diff changes, as I had built the diff as kit to start with (2gear, 1.2K), and felt this was a little soft, as the car was a bit unstable into the turns, and seemingly diffing out a bit on power. From those runs, I settled on 2gears with 2K oil as the prefered combo. The 4gear diff I also tried with 1.2K, but this was very hard and inconsistent to drive, very snappy on low throttle. Maybe 1000wt would have been better with the four gear, but it didn't feel great on the bench, so maybe needs a bit of work still.

Last on the list (well, not quite, as the shock change was last of all as I didn't have time to do that between rounds!) was playing with the rear roll bar positions. Having started out with kit (1.4mm, inside mount), feeling that the car was a bit too unstable during quick direction changes, I tried the 1.2mm bar on the outside mount to make it more linear and generally softer. This worked well to settle the rear down, too well in fact as the car then started to generate a on power push. To resolve this, moved the rear shock up one hole to 5 from 4. One thing nice to feel was that even this small change was felt on track, and did make a difference.

Overall, the day went really well, very happy with were the car ended up. Plenty still to come from it (and the driver), but every run learnt something, and every change I could feel on track. Also very impressed with the durability of the car, only issue I had all day was a rear CVD pin falling out after the grub screw came loose. Replaced both the rear's with TOP pins, that have a ground flat on them, and loctite, and that was the sum of the days problems. No issues with losing settings, no loose bits, no tweak issues... just a solid, easy and relaxing days racing. Just great really

Looking forward to running the car some more.

Regards
Ed

Final Setup - EC - Landsborough Interclub

Kensei

Is it really necessary to drill the shock top to get the shocks to work well?