Serpent S411
#2086
Tech Apprentice
Hi
Can anyone tell me what to do with the stock 411 so it doesnt get twisted. All i have heardfrom have big problem with a twisted car , also without even have runned on a track , sounds like a factory failure
Can anyone tell me what to do with the stock 411 so it doesnt get twisted. All i have heardfrom have big problem with a twisted car , also without even have runned on a track , sounds like a factory failure
#2088
Tech Adept
#2089
Tech Apprentice
#2090
Tech Fanatic
#2091
Martin,
The hinge pin block in the front lays down flat against the chassis. The rearward block for the front of the car is flipped upside down. This is done for belt clearance. So you need 3mm shim under the rear front block if nothing is under the front front block. This would create the lowest hingepin and it would be flat. If you were to put a 1mm under the Front, front block and still want a level hingepin then you would need 4mm under the rear front block. So when he put 4.5 under the rear, if he also had 1mm under the front then he had .5mm anti-dive. Does that make sense?
Steve
The hinge pin block in the front lays down flat against the chassis. The rearward block for the front of the car is flipped upside down. This is done for belt clearance. So you need 3mm shim under the rear front block if nothing is under the front front block. This would create the lowest hingepin and it would be flat. If you were to put a 1mm under the Front, front block and still want a level hingepin then you would need 4mm under the rear front block. So when he put 4.5 under the rear, if he also had 1mm under the front then he had .5mm anti-dive. Does that make sense?
Steve
#2092
Tech Master
iTrader: (23)
I think jonny wishbone said this gives you more chassis flex and more tuning adjustabileity. It should be a nice addition.
FYI, I may be at the track next Wednesday and have just received a 3.5 rear block I was going to install. If you want to give it a try first your more then welcome, as I know your much more consistent than I am.. Any how let me know.
FYI, I may be at the track next Wednesday and have just received a 3.5 rear block I was going to install. If you want to give it a try first your more then welcome, as I know your much more consistent than I am.. Any how let me know.
#2093
The one piece will allow you to run the top deck without the center screw and seems to give the car better rotation and rear traction. It can be used in combination with the the 2 pce center section so you can actually get 3 options for rear chassis stiffness.
#2094
Yes Martin, same as Tamiya suspension bridges, flipped front/rear 1 piece unit. By the way the Tamiya suspension bridges WILL NOT work with the S411. Thought you might have some spares kicking around, lol.
#2095
have you tried other bell cranks or steering knuckles to enable more ackerman adjustments?
#2096
Speaking of the steering rack, be careful of the pushed in bearings. I haven't had this issue but others have stated that the bearings are loosely fitted and will "walk" the rack up off the bearings when running the car. the fix has been to glue the bearings in or run a larger washer over the bearing to keep the rack down. I'm not sure if this is caused by the bearing being tilted a little when being pressed in, again, I have no issues with mine yet.
#2098
Tech Regular
I have run Xray steering knuckles which have given similar feel to the stock ones. I have been trying to keep the car as stock as possible to give better feedback on setup for kit supplied parts. I have also heard that Serpent is working on a new steering rack with more ackerman adjustments, I think its suppose to be out in the next couple months.
Speaking of the steering rack, be careful of the pushed in bearings. I haven't had this issue but others have stated that the bearings are loosely fitted and will "walk" the rack up off the bearings when running the car. the fix has been to glue the bearings in or run a larger washer over the bearing to keep the rack down. I'm not sure if this is caused by the bearing being tilted a little when being pressed in, again, I have no issues with mine yet.
Speaking of the steering rack, be careful of the pushed in bearings. I haven't had this issue but others have stated that the bearings are loosely fitted and will "walk" the rack up off the bearings when running the car. the fix has been to glue the bearings in or run a larger washer over the bearing to keep the rack down. I'm not sure if this is caused by the bearing being tilted a little when being pressed in, again, I have no issues with mine yet.
#2099
ya, I CA all the steering rack bearings.... it seems to fit quite loosely.... After the CA everything is nice and smooth.... for the chassis as I had a few different chassis in different thickness for testing... Almost all of them are slightly twisted even before I mount anything on it..... One of the worst one is the one that came with my kit. Before I even CA the edge I place it on my setup board with the rear end flat on the board. The Front is around 4mm twisted...... And the other 2 chassis I got when I purchase the kit were twisted too...... It got so bad I was checking my setup board and make sure it is not twisted....
I can't guarantee that this will fix your problem, but it shouldn't hurt it. If anything the twist is usually caused during the cooling time.
#2100
Super Moderator
iTrader: (63)
Join Date: May 2005
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ya, I CA all the steering rack bearings.... it seems to fit quite loosely.... After the CA everything is nice and smooth.... for the chassis as I had a few different chassis in different thickness for testing... Almost all of them are slightly twisted even before I mount anything on it..... One of the worst one is the one that came with my kit. Before I even CA the edge I place it on my setup board with the rear end flat on the board. The Front is around 4mm twisted...... And the other 2 chassis I got when I purchase the kit were twisted too...... It got so bad I was checking my setup board and make sure it is not twisted....
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