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Old 10-10-2011, 04:46 AM   #1336
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Originally Posted by S.A.W View Post
Hi,

Does anyone know what gear ratios you can actually fit on the car ? Just so I know what spur and pinions I need.

Thanks.
Below is a link to a PDF file with all the info you require.

http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/serp...ng-Springs.pdf

Cheers

Ren
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Old 10-10-2011, 04:53 AM   #1337
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Yeah I also use a grease (just high temp bearing grease) around the o-ring and where the outdrives exit the case. It just seems logical to add some protection. I also spray my rubber seals with motor spray. This makes them expand a little so it improves the seals. As it is the only leak I have had is when you over fill the diff and it leaks through the screws.....
i would keep motor spray or brake cleaner, or any other liquid away for the X seals , they swell up so much. not a good idea. puts extra stress on the seal and if you happen to run it the same day, its likely to be binding up and wearing it out premo. a little shock slime on the outdrive shaft is all that is needed.
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Old 10-10-2011, 05:04 AM   #1338
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Originally Posted by silvalis View Post
Any tricks on getting the diff to stop leaking? the stock build with the oring does nothing. Coming from a sakura zero S its sort of crappy...
Wow, that's surprising. I've had about 4 racedays this year on asphalt with this car (dual geardiffs) and no leakage whatsoever. Are you sure the 2 halves of the diff case is 'seated' correctly?
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Old 10-10-2011, 06:13 AM   #1339
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Originally Posted by venom54 View Post
Below is a link to a PDF file with all the info you require.

http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/serp...ng-Springs.pdf

Cheers

Ren
Thankyou.
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Old 10-10-2011, 08:37 AM   #1340
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Originally Posted by mutley001 View Post
I couldn't agree more with the praise for this car
As a new owner of a serpent after many years with schumacher and an occasional dabble with Tamiya and xray, the fit and finish of the serpent is fantastic. So much so that a week after building and running the car I ordered a second.
I love the way the car just fell together and was quick out of the box.
I predominately run on carpet so then put Rasmus's Crarpet setup on the car and instantly went quicker on our track then my old Mi4CX - which I'd got going pretty well- by a whole lap! I'm now only a few tenths behind the group of faster racers I'd been chasing for over a year.
Love this car - really smooth, loads of steering and grip, really easy to drive.
Looking forward to the outdoor season next year to see how it goes on asphalt but on carpet its looking good for the winter
Cheers serpent!
Hi mutley001.

Nice, that you could use the indoor set up from Rasmus.

The set up works also with a modified motor as well. Rasmus has now driven the car for about 25 batteries with a modified motor, and he has set 3 new track records. On a track, where he drives about 10-15 batteries every week in the winter season. He now can drive 33 laps in 5 minutes on the track almost every time. Last weekend 8 times in a row. With the previous car (Tamiya 417) it was maybe once or twice every week.

You write the word, that describes the driving of the Serpent: it is EASY to drive - and more important: it is EASY to drive it FAST.

We have tested some more settings, and changing the FR brace to a 1,5 makes the car even easier to drive - but not faster. We also tried the standard 1,4 mm rear anti roll bar again, and changed the damper settings one whole to the 6th. position. Very small changes, you feel it (rear more stable), but not faster.
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Old 10-10-2011, 10:40 AM   #1341
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Hi mutley001.

Nice, that you could use the indoor set up from Rasmus.

The set up works also with a modified motor as well. Rasmus has now driven the car for about 25 batteries with a modified motor, and he has set 3 new track records. On a track, where he drives about 10-15 batteries every week in the winter season. He now can drive 33 laps in 5 minutes on the track almost every time. Last weekend 8 times in a row. With the previous car (Tamiya 417) it was maybe once or twice every week.

You write the word, that describes the driving of the Serpent: it is EASY to drive - and more important: it is EASY to drive it FAST.

We have tested some more settings, and changing the FR brace to a 1,5 makes the car even easier to drive - but not faster. We also tried the standard 1,4 mm rear anti roll bar again, and changed the damper settings one whole to the 6th. position. Very small changes, you feel it (rear more stable), but not faster.
Thank for the reply

Actually ou mentioned here the things I planned on trying next. Raising the shock positions another hole, trying the 1.4 rear roll bar etc so I'll rethink.
At the moment I'm running kit arms and hubs etc so I think my next move should be to go with the hard versions. Do they make a big difference to lap times???
Are people finding them brittle at all?
Anyway - thanks for the info it saves me a buch of testing time!
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Old 10-10-2011, 10:58 AM   #1342
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Hi,

I think the uk version comes with a 2.5mm chassis and top deck but looking at alot of set up's most run the 2mm or 2.25mm is it best to get this for the UK tracks espcially with low to med grip ? what about top deck thickness ?

Also would I need to change arms, hubs etc to hard ?

Any other items I should get or change for the UK ?

Thanks.
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Old 10-10-2011, 08:00 PM   #1343
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plastics are different Ren. a good way to tell, is check your blades. if you can indent the plastic with your nail, then V1. if they are hard, then you have V2.
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Originally Posted by venom54 View Post
Unless stated by SERPENT with an website notice your won't!

Such as the inclusion of a spur gear in a second kit run ! That was a welcome surprise.

Cheers

Ren
My kit, there is a spur gear but isn't v2 blade. I receive v2 blades separently from my local shop.
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Old 10-10-2011, 09:48 PM   #1344
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Wow, that's surprising. I've had about 4 racedays this year on asphalt with this car (dual geardiffs) and no leakage whatsoever. Are you sure the 2 halves of the diff case is 'seated' correctly?
I've pulled it apart and put it back together several times trying to stop it leaking. Also did this to try and get the thing to stop wobbling (was still wobbling slightly). Maybe this is related to the leak?

99% sure that the O ring wasn't twisted too (It was one of the things I checked), but you never know.

Chances are it's probably me doing something wrong anyway.

Anyway, I'll pick up some of that green slime and try that.
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Old 10-11-2011, 01:48 AM   #1345
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Originally Posted by Pattojnr View Post
i would keep motor spray or brake cleaner, or any other liquid away for the X seals , they swell up so much. not a good idea. puts extra stress on the seal and if you happen to run it the same day, its likely to be binding up and wearing it out premo. a little shock slime on the outdrive shaft is all that is needed.
Thats my point... I use them on the diff to make sure the seal is good. Its is also greased so it is quite smooth and free. Of course you keep the motor spray away from your shocks... thats a big no no.
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Old 10-11-2011, 03:22 AM   #1346
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Hi hi,

Is the oil leak from outdrive? Or screws holes? Or the gap from pulley teeth

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Originally Posted by silvalis View Post
I've pulled it apart and put it back together several times trying to stop it leaking. Also did this to try and get the thing to stop wobbling (was still wobbling slightly). Maybe this is related to the leak?

99% sure that the O ring wasn't twisted too (It was one of the things I checked), but you never know.

Chances are it's probably me doing something wrong anyway.

Anyway, I'll pick up some of that green slime and try that.
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Old 10-11-2011, 03:54 AM   #1347
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id be checking to make sure the seal has not been pinched if its leaking bad i would just repalce them all i bought spare ones but havnt had a problem with leaking diffs even my spare gear diff i put in the front is good also no leaks
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Old 10-11-2011, 04:16 AM   #1348
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Thats my point... I use them on the diff to make sure the seal is good. Its is also greased so it is quite smooth and free. Of course you keep the motor spray away from your shocks... thats a big no no.
i was talking about the diff seals. in no way or form would you want to expand seals before they are fitted. all it does is create other issues. coming from a Hydraulic background, this is from years of experience. forcing something round into a round hole, it makes the seal out of round. then you compress it, and im sure you know what happens next. but i dont want to argue about it. so lets move on.
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Old 10-11-2011, 05:39 AM   #1349
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Hi hi,

Is the oil leak from outdrive? Or screws holes? Or the gap from pulley teeth

I actually just rebuilt it to check it, as I had it sitting around for 3 weeks and noticed that the rear belt was completely lubed up (and the insides almost dry).

I suspect it was coming out through both, as previously i noticed the teeth completely lubed up and earlier i found the plate where the screw heads are lubed as well.

Anyway it's been 24 hrs and no signs of leaking, so maybe I got lucky this time.

I'll still get some green slime anyway I guess.
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Old 10-11-2011, 05:41 AM   #1350
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id be checking to make sure the seal has not been pinched if its leaking bad i would just repalce them all i bought spare ones but havnt had a problem with leaking diffs even my spare gear diff i put in the front is good also no leaks
mmm This is what I suspected I did the first time, however there were no signs of pinching when i pulled it apart. I may fit a larger oring one day and see what happens.
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