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Old 09-08-2011, 05:36 AM   #1081
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Has anyone done a back to back with the 2.50 mm and the 2 mm chassis ?
If so wat one do u think is better?
yep i have i prefer the 2mm chassi for me it made the car feel more conistant.
the rar end wasnt nearly as taily when i drove both of them
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Old 09-08-2011, 05:46 AM   #1082
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For those who don't kind a bit of.wrk you may be jnterested to know that the exceed light weight internals rorba 733 diff can be made to fit into a 411 diff. I forgot to weigh it before I began but with light weight internals and 1200 oil the diff weighs in at 22g. A new diff in the packet plus the extra shaft and 2 bevels (without oil) weighs in at 32g. It takes a bit of work to the out drives and mounting the main diff housing side main gear but when you get it together it feels better than the steel gears. I don't think the gears are a perfect fit so I think I need to do.some.more work on shimming but it does.go together.

Keep in mind that this gearset is not cheap for a few.plastic parts and alloy shafts.
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Old 09-08-2011, 06:05 AM   #1083
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For those who don't kind a bit of.wrk you may be jnterested to know that the exceed light weight internals rorba 733 diff can be made to fit into a 411 diff. I forgot to weigh it before I began but with light weight internals and 1200 oil the diff weighs in at 22g. A new diff in the packet plus the extra shaft and 2 bevels (without oil) weighs in at 32g. It takes a bit of work to the out drives and mounting the main diff housing side main gear but when you get it together it feels better than the steel gears. I don't think the gears are a perfect fit so I think I need to do.some.more work on shimming but it does.go together.

Keep in mind that this gearset is not cheap for a few.plastic parts and alloy shafts.
Many Thanks Dragon,

Isn't the 733 Big bevel gears are using pin instead of Hex shape to lock on the outdrive?

Do you have the part no?
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Old 09-08-2011, 07:10 AM   #1084
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Many Thanks Dragon,

Isn't the 733 Big bevel gears are using pin instead of Hex shape to lock on the outdrive?

Do you have the part no?
link to the LW gears

http://www.xceedrc.com/product/108248
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Old 09-08-2011, 07:42 AM   #1085
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Many Thanks Dragon,

Isn't the 733 Big bevel gears are using pin instead of Hex shape to lock on the outdrive?

Do you have the part no?
the 733 has the same setup. this is where the 411 diff came from.
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Old 09-08-2011, 12:39 PM   #1086
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Hy everyone,

can someone tell me the length of the central drive shaft (middle shaft alu) that supports the center pullies, item #401366, please

Thanks a lot
G-rem
No one can help me?!!!
Please, it's very important.

Bye bye
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Old 09-08-2011, 02:31 PM   #1087
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the 733 has the same setup. this is where the 411 diff came from.
Yep thats what I was told too... The main gears are pin driven rather than hex/bolt. You have to cut down one of the pins a bit as well to fit it together...
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Old 09-08-2011, 03:23 PM   #1088
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yep i have i prefer the 2mm chassi for me it made the car feel more conistant.
the rar end wasnt nearly as taily when i drove both of them
cheers im running the 2mm now but i got the std one aswell , ill prob use the 2.5mm wen the indoor carpet meetings start next month..
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Old 09-08-2011, 06:59 PM   #1089
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yes you can how ever when you need to tighten the back motor mount screw you will need to remove the motor mount once you have set the mesh and tighten the front the motor mount screw
Thanks for your respond matt as always For me some how it quit massive to change spur / pinion for EP compared with GP as i experienced with or probably my method itself is wrong and complicated I have to unscrew the upperdeck and motor mount in order to change those..
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Old 09-08-2011, 08:36 PM   #1090
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Thanks for your respond matt as always For me some how its quite massive to change spur / pinion for EP; probably my method itself is wrong and complicated I have to unscrew the upperdeck and motor mount in order to change those..
YEP....but I'm used to it now. Still a PITA though
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Old 09-08-2011, 08:44 PM   #1091
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YEP....but I'm used to it now. Still a PITA though
Lol my last car was a losi jrxs-r. Chnaging the spur or pinion was about the same amount of effort... After that tuis setuo really sucks...
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Old 09-09-2011, 03:59 AM   #1092
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Default setting pinion mesh.

i see some guys are having problems. it is really dependant of what class or motor you are running. i am using the serpent 84T spur and a 19-20 T pinion, as i am running 3.5T Mod. everything is just easy. 2 motor screws can be accessed easily, and motor is out inseconds with out removing anything else.
i also run speed passion, so a motor change doesnt incurr any soldering either.
i just love how everything is. i wouldnt have it any other way.
but stock....... different story. remove spur, and top deck, ouch........
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Old 09-09-2011, 04:28 AM   #1093
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can someone tell me the length of the central drive shaft (middle shaft alu) that supports the center pullies, item #401366, please.
WTF?!?
No one have had to dismont his central shaft yet? =)
Please, can you help me, it's just to know if that part is fittable in my own car.

Thanks
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Old 09-09-2011, 04:40 AM   #1094
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Default STOCK PINION AND SPUR CHANGE

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Originally Posted by esham View Post
Thanks for your respond matt as always For me some how it quit massive to change spur / pinion for EP compared with GP as i experienced with or probably my method itself is wrong and complicated I have to unscrew the upperdeck and motor mount in order to change those..
RE XRAY spurs come as low as 64 tooth and with the BIG hole for motor removal, no need to take the top deck off!



Common sizes available.

Cheers
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Old 09-09-2011, 05:41 AM   #1095
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i now use the xray spurs to but you can also use the other spurs. i have been using a 70 spur i dont remove the top deck at all when i put my stock motor in just split the 2 peice mount a few more screws but can be done with very little effort if you dont have the xray spurs..
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