Serpent S411

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  • I'll likely go with hard (medium) plastics, as my regular track is med grip on a very good day.

    The thing about to he kit C hubs I had is they aren't marked like the hard versions are, but they've got crescent shaped divots on the inside that matched with ones that were marked. Thanks for the tip on newer arms. I'll definitely look into that.

    Rebuilding shocks several times a day...nope. I'm a weekly club racer that will barely qualify in the B, if the competition is strong. I might rebuild shocks a few times per season in my cars that see a lot of action. Hell, yesterday I barely had time to charge and sauce, before I was running again. (2 classes + 4 heats = no wrench time!)

    Thanks again!
  • Quote: I'll likely go with hard (medium) plastics, as my regular track is med grip on a very good day.

    The thing about to he kit C hubs I had is they aren't marked like the hard versions are, but they've got crescent shaped divots on the inside that matched with ones that were marked. Thanks for the tip on newer arms. I'll definitely look into that.

    Rebuilding shocks several times a day...nope. I'm a weekly club racer that will barely qualify in the B, if the competition is strong. I might rebuild shocks a few times per season in my cars that see a lot of action. Hell, yesterday I barely had time to charge and sauce, before I was running again. (2 classes + 4 heats = no wrench time!)

    Thanks again!
    Jim, I'd go with the hard plastics, the XH plastics are fragile and maybe a pro can run them, but I'd stay away from them personally.

    The C-hubs are marked and usually they are on the inside lower left side or right side of the inside of the chub, unless you have old stock items, those where randomly marked or not at all some times. Just make sure when you install them that the tops of the chubs are tilted towards the back of the car.

    I only rebuild shocks when they make the squishy noise on compression, or when I fly with my cars. It seems like the shocks always need rebuilds after a plane trip.

    As long as the diff doesn't leak excessively, I usually only check it the same time as the shock rebuild, although lately because of playing with different diff thickness fluids, its apart more than normal.
  • Quote: How looking do you guys typically wait to replace your rear outdrives? Mine are getting pretty rounded and I seem to be replacing cvd blades every 8 to 10 packs before they look beaten up... I have a 2.0 with the v3 diff- aluminum outdrives.
    Stay on top of the replacement of the pin cushions (blades) and you shouldn't pound out the outdrives is all you can do. I'm still trying to confirm this, but I think the Yokomo pin cushions are of a better material than the Serpent ones and should be a direct replacement. I'd say 8 to 10 packs might be sooner than what I do, but I check them continually. A quick check for the front blades is to have your car on your setup board ready to run, now try to rotate your spur gear, if you get more than 2 teeth push on the gear you can pretty much count on the front blades being worn out. More than that and they are definitely shot, less and you should be okay for a few more runs.
  • I have been cutting a few Serpent 411 top decks for a few locals. If anyone wants one, I have two designs, and a few different thicknesses. Sorry for the terrible pic, its all I have right now. PM or email me at [email protected] Thanks!

    Serpent S411-serpent-411.jpg  

  • pM sent for specs. always curious to see what other designs people are experimenting with...
  • Sorry if this was asked before... I have a TE version and just wondered If I can use any other companies floating servo mount? I don't really like the serpent version and I would like to try a "floating servo"

    TIA
  • Curious what issues have you with the serpent floating mount...
  • Quote: I have been cutting a few Serpent 411 top decks for a few locals. If anyone wants one, I have two designs, and a few different thicknesses. Sorry for the terrible pic, its all I have right now. PM or email me at [email protected] Thanks!
    Large gain in front grip, rear stayed neutral. It's a good piece!
  • Quote: Curious what issues have you with the serpent floating mount...
    Nothing is wrong with them... just don't like the way it looks, that's all.
  • Maybe you can also wait a little bit for the prototype that Wilck has tested last ETS?
  • This has probably been mentioned before, but the part numbers on Serpent website for 401623 Wishbone FR Lw V2 XH, and 401624 Wishbone RR Lw V2 XH, - not only have the photos transposed, but if you order the Rear 401624 the front arms are in that package.
    On another note - rebuilding my 411 shocks and wondering if you guys are drilling the vent hole in the upper part of the shock above the bladder? And what advantage would that do - reduce the rebound?
  • Drilling a hole in the cap above the bladder will eliminate any rebound caused by the bladder. I do this with my Tamiya shocks and it's made them much easier to build and tune.

    I'm still fairly new to the Serpent family, so I'm hoping you can walk me through a few things regarding the versions of the cars. From what I gather, most parts (EG: wishbones) interchange between versions of the S411. What I'm wondering is will something like the V2 wishbones work with the "V1" C-hubs, etc?

    There have been so many revisions of the car that I'm unsure what's going to work. Another example is I have a gear diff revision set (401371). I'm pretty sure it'll work with my diffs, but are there identifiers to tell you which version you've got?

    Apologies for the many questions, but I'm doing my first complete teardown and rebuild soon.
  • Quote: Drilling a hole in the cap above the bladder will eliminate any rebound caused by the bladder. I do this with my Tamiya shocks and it's made them much easier to build and tune.

    I'm still fairly new to the Serpent family, so I'm hoping you can walk me through a few things regarding the versions of the cars. From what I gather, most parts (EG: wishbones) interchange between versions of the S411. What I'm wondering is will something like the V2 wishbones work with the "V1" C-hubs, etc?

    There have been so many revisions of the car that I'm unsure what's going to work. Another example is I have a gear diff revision set (401371). I'm pretty sure it'll work with my diffs, but are there identifiers to tell you which version you've got?

    Apologies for the many questions, but I'm doing my first complete teardown and rebuild soon.
    Yep. First thing I did when I built the kit was take a 1/16" bit and drill the shock caps. I read that this mod is basically for high traction carpet but zero rebound in all shocks is one less variable to deal with in my setup even though I typically run on low-medium traction asphalt. The only thing is there's no going back unless you buy new shocks caps if you decide you actually want the advantages of variable rebound
  • Quote: Yep. First thing I did when I built the kit was take a 1/16" bit and drill the shock caps. I read that this mod is basically for high traction carpet but zero rebound in all shocks is one less variable to deal with in my setup even though I typically run on low-medium traction asphalt. The only thing is there's no going back unless you buy new shocks caps if you decide you actually want the advantages of variable rebound
    This applies to every shock. Removing rebound will do what u said. Eliminating variables.but that is really vague statement.
    Shocks r composed of 2 actions. Dampening and rebound. Dampening is from oils. Rebound is from springs. Drilling the cap eliminates the rebounding action from shock's pressure and makes it rely completely on springs for rebound. That way w every adjustment u make on spring tension u see the expected result at most.. So shocks r not supposed to have the rebound u mentioned. There comes in drilling the hole.
    I personally dont do it because my car has been fine on the track w other adjustment but certainly drilling wouldnt hurt at all if not better as far as u do it correctly. Especially if u compete at national/inernational level, i dont see see why u dont do it.
  • Quote: This applies to every shock. Removing rebound will do what u said. Eliminating variables.but that is really vague statement.
    Shocks r composed of 2 actions. Dampening and rebound. Dampening is from oils. Rebound is from springs. Drilling the cap eliminates the rebounding action from shock's pressure and makes it rely completely on springs for rebound. That way w every adjustment u make on spring tension u see the expected result at most.. So shocks r not supposed to have the rebound u mentioned. There comes in drilling the hole.
    I personally dont do it because my car has been fine on the track w other adjustment but certainly drilling wouldnt hurt at all if not better as far as u do it correctly. Especially if u compete at national/inernational level, i dont see see why u dont do it.
    Thank you for the clarity and explanation.

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