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Old 01-07-2016, 02:08 PM   #6931
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Default Shock Springs

You can pretty much run all the springs out there by using either the RCm or the RCXX lower spring reatainer. I run the RCXX retainer with the 20mm Xray springs and have ample adjustment opposed to either being at the very top or the very bottom of the shock adjuster.
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Old 01-14-2016, 11:07 AM   #6932
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I went ahead and bought a sport to backup (21.5t) my eryx 3.0. Got it 180 shipped from australia. Hopefully it makes it in one piece.

Now should I use the stock 2.5 glass chassis or switch to an aluminum 3.0 or carbon 2.5 on stock configuration? It's for carpet. As I'd have all three.
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Old 01-14-2016, 11:23 AM   #6933
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Originally Posted by performula View Post
I went ahead and bought a sport to backup (21.5t) my eryx 3.0. Got it 180 shipped from australia. Hopefully it makes it in one piece.

Now should I use the stock 2.5 glass chassis or switch to an aluminum 3.0 or carbon 2.5 on stock configuration? It's for carpet. As I'd have all three.
Alu 2.0mm chassis is my goto chassis for carpet.
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Old 01-14-2016, 11:30 AM   #6934
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Alu 2.0mm chassis is my goto chassis for carpet.
I notice it has a lot of flex compared to the 2.5 graphite. Would you say the flex is similar between the 2.5 fibreglass chassis and the aluminum 2mm?
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Old 01-14-2016, 11:38 AM   #6935
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I notice it has a lot of flex compared to the 2.5 graphite. Would you say the flex is similar between the 2.5 fibreglass chassis and the aluminum 2mm?
I didn't feel the fibreglass chassis before (I've only ever had the 411 race kits) however I can only assume that the fibreglass is fairly stiff. I'd be inclined to leave the sport version car for what it is and run it stock initially. I've heard of people running the car stock and being competitive.
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Old 01-14-2016, 01:59 PM   #6936
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Originally Posted by dan_vector View Post
I didn't feel the fibreglass chassis before (I've only ever had the 411 race kits) however I can only assume that the fibreglass is fairly stiff. I'd be inclined to leave the sport version car for what it is and run it stock initially. I've heard of people running the car stock and being competitive.
I remember this atricle when i was deciding on the sport or a 2.0... Looks like the sport chassis is very capable.
http://www.area52.cc/news/3243-serpe...or-racing.html
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Old 01-14-2016, 07:52 PM   #6937
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I remember this atricle when i was deciding on the sport or a 2.0... Looks like the sport chassis is very capable.
http://www.area52.cc/news/3243-serpe...or-racing.html
Perfect for the stock class I intend to run. I wanted to race two classes so I wasnt bored between heats.
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Old 01-14-2016, 08:03 PM   #6938
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Yes, I think you'll be fine with the car stock! Keep us posted!
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Old 01-15-2016, 06:44 AM   #6939
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I remember this atricle when i was deciding on the sport or a 2.0... Looks like the sport chassis is very capable.
http://www.area52.cc/news/3243-serpe...or-racing.html
Nice to see this article used. I wrote it for my son Rasmus, when I was the mechanic on his cars.

Another good idea maybe a to buy: all the wishbone blocks are made of plastic, and they have a built-in 1,0 mm high roll center. The alu blocks from all other 411 cars fits right in this car, and they have standard a 1 mm lower roll center using shims to adjust the roll center.

The car showing in the article is still running in our home club. A young driver bought it, and allthough it have have had a real tough life up to now, it is still running. He has upgrated the car with the alu blocks and a second old used diff with 500.000 cst oil in for the front.
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Old 02-14-2016, 09:53 PM   #6940
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How looking do you guys typically wait to replace your rear outdrives? Mine are getting pretty rounded and I seem to be replacing cvd blades every 8 to 10 packs before they look beaten up... I have a 2.0 with the v3 diff- aluminum outdrives.
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Old 02-14-2016, 11:23 PM   #6941
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Hey guys, I'm looking to stock up on parts and I'm wondering about some specific items. What difference do regular or hard wishbones, uprights and/or C-hubs make? Are the C-hubs really separate left and right pieces? (manual doesn't specify)

I'll be doing major maintenance in a few months, so I'm looking to do some other stuff, as well. I don't believe the diff oil in the rear has been changed in a few years. Is there a benchmark or indicator to let me when it should be done? It runs smoothly enough, I think. Other than diff and shock rebuilds, I'll be replacing every ball joint on the car.

Thanks for your help. I'm still learning about TC chassis.
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Old 02-15-2016, 04:16 AM   #6942
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How looking do you guys typically wait to replace your rear outdrives? Mine are getting pretty rounded and I seem to be replacing cvd blades every 8 to 10 packs before they look beaten up... I have a 2.0 with the v3 diff- aluminum outdrives.
I've never changed out a rear out drive on any of my 411's. I've found the diff worn out before the out drives have so just replace the entire diff. 8 to 10 packs is about right for the blades really. I change mine out after each race day which is probably about 10 packs I'd say. Blades are very cheap so just keep on changing them because that's how the damage is done to the out drives.
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Old 02-15-2016, 04:22 AM   #6943
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing View Post
Hey guys, I'm looking to stock up on parts and I'm wondering about some specific items. What difference do regular or hard wishbones, uprights and/or C-hubs make? Are the C-hubs really separate left and right pieces? (manual doesn't specify)

I'll be doing major maintenance in a few months, so I'm looking to do some other stuff, as well. I don't believe the diff oil in the rear has been changed in a few years. Is there a benchmark or indicator to let me when it should be done? It runs smoothly enough, I think. Other than diff and shock rebuilds, I'll be replacing every ball joint on the car.

Thanks for your help. I'm still learning about TC chassis.
The hard versions of the plastics are standard now. They provide a more direct feeling to the car and are best for med/high traction. The medium plastics are the old version and are best in v low/low traction conditions. Most of us run the hard or X-hard now.

Yes C hubs are always handed left/right. The manual isn't specific because it assumes this to be convention. The hubs are swept back 2, 4 or 6 degrees and so would be handed left right. They come spare as a pair and 4 degree is common. If you are replacing the arms I'd recommend downloading the 3.0 or 4.0 manual and order the latest standard arms as they changed between the 2.0 and 3.0.

Diff oil should be changed regularly (as well as shock oil). I rebuild my shocks at least before every race and sometimes multiple times during the race day. Diff I generally rebuild before each race day. Some do it less frequently. Certainly more frequently than yours has!
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Old 02-15-2016, 12:25 PM   #6944
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If you go for new arms, check the XH arms. Those are the graphite arms.
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Old 02-15-2016, 12:55 PM   #6945
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If you go for new arms, check the XH arms. Those are the graphite arms.
The XH arms are so fragile I don't really see the benefit in them. The few tenths you might pick up isn't exactly a big reward for breaking and having a DNF in a big race.
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