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Old 01-01-2016, 08:29 AM   #6901
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Originally Posted by spacendeman View Post
First of all ; Happy new year to all

I have a question.
Anyone already run the new diff yet in the 4.0?

I have always got a bad diff in the 3.0. Leaking, so I could not run a complete raceday with 1 diff.

Thanks!
I started using green slime on both x-rings and haven't seen any diff fluid leak out at all. I swear by that green slime now and use it in all my diffs.
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Old 01-01-2016, 10:36 AM   #6902
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Yea what is this green stuff people are talking about? Someone recommended "green lube" for my orings on my shocks today. Same stuff?
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Old 01-01-2016, 11:39 AM   #6903
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Yea what is this green stuff people are talking about? Someone recommended "green lube" for my orings on my shocks today. Same stuff?
Most likely the same stuff. My tube actually says "green slime" on it. It works wonders on the shock o-rings as well.
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Old 01-01-2016, 12:15 PM   #6904
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Thanks CamLS!
I will look for some green slime thing
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Old 01-01-2016, 02:26 PM   #6905
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This is getting ridiculous. 3 S411 threads going at once now.
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Old 01-01-2016, 02:48 PM   #6906
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Originally Posted by performula View Post
Yea what is this green stuff people are talking about? Someone recommended "green lube" for my orings on my shocks today. Same stuff?
Quote:
Originally Posted by spacendeman View Post
First of all ; Happy new year to all

I have a question.
Anyone already run the new diff yet in the 4.0?

I have always got a bad diff in the 3.0. Leaking, so I could not run a complete raceday with 1 diff.

Thanks!
Depending what you can get locally I've tried all the below with good results. I'm using the o slip now and I find it excellent. I would also consider ordering new orings too. The latest diff and shock orings are vastly improved. The shock orings are now orange and the diff black. I have 3 diffs and 2 sets of shocks that have not leaked since switching them out.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...ftc004/p412918

http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...rchess/p153363

http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...k-1410/p448398
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Old 01-01-2016, 03:40 PM   #6907
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Thanks Benzaah,

I will try some green slime. That is easy to get for me.
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Old 01-01-2016, 08:16 PM   #6908
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Originally Posted by Benzaah View Post
In 4 years running serpent I've never properly balanced a car. The cars these days are designed around the components we run which are all very similar. Heavy lipos used to unbalance the car but now motors are lighter and it balances out. So unless your running some monster battery, servo and huge lengths of extra wire and crap in the car it should be around the mark from the get go. IMO Using scales is a waste of time unless you have 4 pins the length of the shocks to lock the corners to weigh them. You can use the hudy balance pins to get it close. If you have access to a hudy tweak station this is your best bet. I will adjust the ride height to where I want it and then set the shock collars so they are the same length side by side. Then adjust the car up on the tweak station and if the car is around the balance you will find you only have to adjust the collars around 1 turn either way to untweak the car.
Looks like my sway bar was tweaked. I replaced it and the tweak settings no longer get all out of sorts with the sway bar connected. Very helpful. Thank you.

The real question is should I start a s411 2.0 thread...lol
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Old 01-01-2016, 09:55 PM   #6909
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Originally Posted by performula View Post
Yea what is this green stuff people are talking about? Someone recommended "green lube" for my orings on my shocks today. Same stuff?
Brilliant stuff. Personally I use associated green slime. 1 tube lasts for a couple seasons at least.
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Old 01-01-2016, 10:22 PM   #6910
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The real question is should I start a s411 2.0 thread...lol
See that's the thing the original thread continued when the 2.0 was released. The 3.0 came with an Alu chassis so the new thread got started. We were all confused for a while. There was a limited edition orange version that missed its own thread. Dibs on starting that thread.

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Looks like my sway bar was tweaked. I replaced it and the tweak settings no longer get all out of sorts with the sway bar connected. Very helpful. Thank you.
Glad the advice helped. I won't be running the Serpent this season so I'll miss all the banter guys. I've been given lots of great advice over the years so thanks to you all. Regards Benzaah
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Old 01-02-2016, 12:05 AM   #6911
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Are there alternatives to the 2.0 DJCs?
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Old 01-02-2016, 02:33 AM   #6912
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Hi All,

As the kits come with steel rear axles, is there any option for alu driveshafts at the rear?
Thanks!
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Old 01-02-2016, 05:29 AM   #6913
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Are there alternatives to the 2.0 DJCs?
ARC djc's work and I use those in my 2.0 as I hated the shrink tube original Serpent djc's. I can't recall the inner bearing size off hand, but it's different than the Serpent one.
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Old 01-02-2016, 05:30 AM   #6914
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Hi All,

As the kits come with steel rear axles, is there any option for alu driveshafts at the rear?
Thanks!
Ser401470 is the part # for the rear aluminum drive shaft.
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Old 01-02-2016, 07:17 AM   #6915
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Quote:
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Ser401470 is the part # for the rear aluminum drive shaft.
Thanks!
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Serpent F110 SF2 with Hobbywing ETS setup.
Serpent S411 Eryx 4.0 with ETS Stock setup
Serpent S411 Eryx 3.0 with ETS Stock setup as rain car.
Serpent S120 LTR with 10.5 blinky mode.
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