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Old 12-16-2015, 07:50 PM   #6871
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Originally Posted by swerv512 View Post
I ever so slightly sanded some material from the c-hub and it no longer binds against the a-arm. Thanks for the tips.

BTW... the Durango HD servo saver works great and fits without any modification.
Glad to hear, it's a great option instead of an Xray saver!
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Old 12-18-2015, 12:19 PM   #6872
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I've been having an issue lately with the pins in both of my rear axles sliding out during a race and making me DNF. I've been using blue loctite paste on the grub screws and they still slide out. Has anyone had the same issue, and if so how did you fix it?
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Old 12-18-2015, 12:44 PM   #6873
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I've been having an issue lately with the pins in both of my rear axles sliding out during a race and making me DNF. I've been using blue loctite paste on the grub screws and they still slide out. Has anyone had the same issue, and if so how did you fix it?
Grind a bit and make a little slot on the pin. Exactly where your grub screw meet the pin. Then reinstall and tighten your grub screw using blue loctite and you'll be fine next race
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Old 12-18-2015, 01:44 PM   #6874
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Grind a bit and make a little slot on the pin. Exactly where your grub screw meet the pin. Then reinstall and tighten your grub screw using blue loctite and you'll be fine next race
I was also thinking of using heat shrink tubing over the pin similar to how the pins on the V1 Serpent djc's were held in place.
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Old 12-18-2015, 01:55 PM   #6875
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The pins that hold the axles to the CVDs on my Eryx 2.0 have notched flats where the set-screw tightens against. Make sure your pins are rotated so that the flats notch will be centered against the set screw.
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Old 12-18-2015, 02:49 PM   #6876
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I was also thinking of using heat shrink tubing over the pin similar to how the pins on the V1 Serpent djc's were held in place.
Serpent makes this part also, you may want to take a look at it. I bought a set but I have not put it on yet, it looks like it will work great.

SER401606 its called a CVD aluminum bushing.


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Old 12-18-2015, 10:21 PM   #6877
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I use univeral pins from TOP PO-DT0011 and slightly longer grup screws than stock with a totally flat end that I picked up at the specilaized hardware store.
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Old 12-19-2015, 07:11 AM   #6878
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Yes, stock is 4 and the 2 and 6 are in aluminum only.
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Originally Posted by The FastFred View Post
You can use these old parts with a little grinding and they work fantastic. I hear the AL bends upon impact so it's not reliable.

Need to pay attention to hub entering into a-arm so you get easy and full droop. A little relief at hub so drive train does not hit and ream out the A-arm for the larger pin. I use a drill bit for the pin size and all works great.

have photos if interested.

PS anyone have the old parts and want to sell them Im buying!

#401085 - hub
#401152 - pin
# 401035 - steel pin
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Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone View Post
Paul says that Yokomo c-hubs will work in the current car with some slight modification. Not sure if its the pin or the steering hub that needs to be modified. It also looks like the TC 6.2 chubs will work with some slight modification, not sure about the durability on these though. (Same pin)
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On the topic... My front c-hub is also unbearably tight. I'm not sure if the pin hole needs reaming out or if I need to sand some material off. I notice when setting the car up that the arms are super free before installing the c-hub on the front. Once installed the movement is very tight.... Going to take a tad bit of material off around where the c-hub pin to see if that helps.
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More information please. Is this when its installed with everything attached, Steering hub, DJC, camber links and steering linkage, or just the c-hub into the arm?
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Gets tight once c-hub goes onto front arm, nothing else is attached at that point. The arms move up and down super free when only the front arms are attached. The moment I attach the c-hub the friction appears. The pins are very tight going in, but that is normal on all the arm hinge pins, but the balls in the mounts keep them friction-free somehow.


Edit: it feels like the arms only get friction-free once the weight of the wheels and tires are attached. When setting droop I have to push the arm down to make sure the set screw is touching the chassis. In comparison, the rear arm and upright are friction free all the time.
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johnny anyone will x-ray fit. They have a good selection of plastics.
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Arms should drop freely with no added weight of other components, if they dont then you have some bind somewhere in your assembly. When I assemble arms onto the chassis, once they are close to tightening the suspension mount screws, I will give them a small tap with the handle end of the wrench just to make sure everything seats in properly and there is no bind. Tighten the screws as normal and check, if there is bind loosen one of the screws slightly and give the arm a tap and tighten. There can be no bind in the arms or you will be chasing handling ghosts. The c-hub should also be free to rotate, if not some fitting may be required. What ever you do, DO NOT ream the arms, as the pins are suppose to rotate in the suspension block bushings.



If I remember correctly I think the Xray pin is larger than what we use.


Here is another tip for ill handling cars. Ive had a couple guys run their cars and have had really strange handling issues, most notable, the car wants to oversteer on exit. After going threw all the basic checks for chassis adjustments the issue continues. Both times now, it has turned out to be weak servo savers causing the cars to not come back to center. So if you have one of these weird issues, check your servo saver, it may be the culprit. I prefer the xray servo saver or the Durango HD servo saver, both of these are very similar and I will use the xray springs in the durango plastic to make a nice long horn servo saver when required.
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Originally Posted by Benzaah View Post
With regards to the arm and chub binding, the quality of the latest plastics is much better than what we used to deal with. It's only Every now and then you get either an arm or a c hub that's tight, like the plastic didn't set properly and it's slightly warped and binds the pin into the arm. unfortunately sounds like you have both. I've tried a few different ways to fix this over the years and if you sand the outside or ream the entire hole in the C hub it creates uneven surfaces and it will be free but will have more slop.

I've found that if you get your body reamer and lightly ream both sides of the c hub and then give the arm a very light sand just around the inside edge of the arm as pictured you can eliminate most if not all bind. I also ream the steering knuckles before I install them as I like those to be super free too.
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Originally Posted by swerv512 View Post
I ever so slightly sanded some material from the c-hub and it no longer binds against the a-arm. Thanks for the tips.

BTW... the Durango HD servo saver works great and fits without any modification.
I'm glad I brought up the C-Hub topic. Thanks to all for the great tips...keep em coming.
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Old 12-21-2015, 05:37 AM   #6879
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I got an opportunity to try XH v2 wishbones for my Serpent, here is a link of video and how it felt like to drive.
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Old 12-21-2015, 06:42 AM   #6880
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i've been using the XH arms for a while and had some initial issues with durability, but once i cut the number of board taps downs i've been happy with the result on asphalt of all grip levels. haven't tried carpet yet though.
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Old 12-22-2015, 03:42 AM   #6881
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i've been using the XH arms for a while and had some initial issues with durability, but once i cut the number of board taps downs i've been happy with the result on asphalt of all grip levels. haven't tried carpet yet though.
Maybe you were unlucky! The durability is questionable on any car. But if you are looking for performence i think less durability is worth it.
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Old 12-22-2015, 10:46 AM   #6882
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alert

http://www.serpent.com/news/13874/Sc...iving-....html
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Old 12-27-2015, 03:37 PM   #6883
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Got a bad bearing on the steering rack. Looks like they come pressed in so I have to buy a whole new rack for $35 because I can't replace the $5 bearings..... Doesn't make much sense... Anyone have any luck replacing these bearings in the steering rack. I'm not cheap, I just hate paying for stuff that should have been better thought out in the design phase....
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Old 12-27-2015, 04:06 PM   #6884
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Got a bad bearing on the steering rack. Looks like they come pressed in so I have to buy a whole new rack for $35 because I can't replace the $5 bearings..... Doesn't make much sense... Anyone have any luck replacing these bearings in the steering rack. I'm not cheap, I just hate paying for stuff that should have been better thought out in the design phase....
Just heat it up and it will pop out. The old racks had issues with the bearings walking out on their on, so the best fix was for them to pre-assemble them and take that part of the build out of the process. Lots of people with ball bearing bushings the old way.
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Old 12-27-2015, 04:13 PM   #6885
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Gonna use the heat gun at work tomorrow to pop them out and the calipers to get a size on them for ordering. Thanks!
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