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Old 11-16-2015, 03:39 PM   #6826
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ok. so i know much of my understeer is caused by going into corners too hot and not getting weight transfer to the front wheels. i always run zero drag brake and i NEVER use the brakes when running. i simply adjust entry speed into the corner and go neutral throttle on tight bends. because of this i never take advantage of the front end's available grip because neutral throttle seems to shift weight off the rear but never really gets to loading up the front end. so, i'm looking at either playing with drag brake (i run 17.5 blinky 99% asphalt) or actually manipulating the brake by myself (OMG)- both very foreign. I've been playing with suspension settings to band-aid my driving style but any setup that gets me the desired steering effect makes the rear end really loose. i was going to change the ackerman but i think i first need to get some time with driving changes.
another question: does changing the link position on the steering block change ackerman? i dont really get what that adjustment does? i know i can add/subtract ackerman by adding/removing shims under the ball joint on the steering bellcrank.

sorry for the long post, i'm just excited.
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Old 11-17-2015, 06:49 AM   #6827
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ok. so i know much of my understeer is caused by going into corners too hot and not getting weight transfer to the front wheels. i always run zero drag brake and i NEVER use the brakes when running. i simply adjust entry speed into the corner and go neutral throttle on tight bends. because of this i never take advantage of the front end's available grip because neutral throttle seems to shift weight off the rear but never really gets to loading up the front end. so, i'm looking at either playing with drag brake (i run 17.5 blinky 99% asphalt) or actually manipulating the brake by myself (OMG)- both very foreign. I've been playing with suspension settings to band-aid my driving style but any setup that gets me the desired steering effect makes the rear end really loose. i was going to change the ackerman but i think i first need to get some time with driving changes.
another question: does changing the link position on the steering block change ackerman? i dont really get what that adjustment does? i know i can add/subtract ackerman by adding/removing shims under the ball joint on the steering bellcrank.

sorry for the long post, i'm just excited.
No issues. I use a little bit of drag brake (10-15%) this aids to transfer the weight forwards and get the front end turned in. This is particularly useful for people coming from the brushed motor days as brushless motors spin a lot freer so the motor braking is a lot less.

To get more steering on the 411 just put 4mm shims below the steering block pivot ball that you connect the steering link to. This straightens the steering link and will give you more steering without making the car loose at the rear. We used to flip the steering blocks left/right but that messed with the caster too much so found the shims worked better. Try it and see.
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Old 11-17-2015, 09:33 AM   #6828
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ok. so i know much of my understeer is caused by going into corners too hot and not getting weight transfer to the front wheels. i always run zero drag brake and i NEVER use the brakes when running. i simply adjust entry speed into the corner and go neutral throttle on tight bends. because of this i never take advantage of the front end's available grip because neutral throttle seems to shift weight off the rear but never really gets to loading up the front end. so, i'm looking at either playing with drag brake (i run 17.5 blinky 99% asphalt) or actually manipulating the brake by myself (OMG)- both very foreign. I've been playing with suspension settings to band-aid my driving style but any setup that gets me the desired steering effect makes the rear end really loose. i was going to change the ackerman but i think i first need to get some time with driving changes.
another question: does changing the link position on the steering block change ackerman? i dont really get what that adjustment does? i know i can add/subtract ackerman by adding/removing shims under the ball joint on the steering bellcrank.

sorry for the long post, i'm just excited.
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No issues. I use a little bit of drag brake (10-15%) this aids to transfer the weight forwards and get the front end turned in. This is particularly useful for people coming from the brushed motor days as brushless motors spin a lot freer so the motor braking is a lot less.

To get more steering on the 411 just put 4mm shims below the steering block pivot ball that you connect the steering link to. This straightens the steering link and will give you more steering without making the car loose at the rear. We used to flip the steering blocks left/right but that messed with the caster too much so found the shims worked better. Try it and see.
Definately want to use some braking to get weight transfer and better steering, although you may want to play with droop settings as well.

For carpet the flipped steering blocks is still the prefered method, not sure how this would effect castor though? (1mm bump steer spacer)

As far as which holes to use on the steering block, using the different holes will effect the ackeman, but on asphalt the prefered setting would be on the outer holes. The inner holes produce less difference in wheel radius.
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Old 11-17-2015, 09:46 PM   #6829
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Definately want to use some braking to get weight transfer and better steering, although you may want to play with droop settings as well.

For carpet the flipped steering blocks is still the prefered method, not sure how this would effect castor though? (1mm bump steer spacer)

As far as which holes to use on the steering block, using the different holes will effect the ackeman, but on asphalt the prefered setting would be on the outer holes. The inner holes produce less difference in wheel radius.
The steering blocks are not zero degree blocks and so when you flip them left/right you change the caster as well. If you use the hudy gauges you can see the difference. It isn't much but it does change. For me personally I've found varying the bump steer shims to be a much better way of doing it on both carpet and asphalt (I usually run 4mm on asphalt and 2mm on carpet initially). Each to their own of course.
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Old 11-18-2015, 07:28 AM   #6830
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The steering blocks are not zero degree blocks and so when you flip them left/right you change the caster as well. If you use the hudy gauges you can see the difference. It isn't much but it does change. For me personally I've found varying the bump steer shims to be a much better way of doing it on both carpet and asphalt (I usually run 4mm on asphalt and 2mm on carpet initially). Each to their own of course.
We look at it more at axle height and relation to the outdrive, much like diff height but on the outside of the car. I never even looked at caster as I thought the pivot screws passed straight threw the hub itself regardless of which way they mounted.
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Old 11-18-2015, 01:50 PM   #6831
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All my cars are serpent except my touring car and it's a awesomatix. I've looked this car but they stopped making it for a bit and the issue of getting parts was painful. Whats the status now.
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Old 11-18-2015, 02:35 PM   #6832
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All my cars are serpent except my touring car and it's a awesomatix. I've looked this car but they stopped making it for a bit and the issue of getting parts was painful. Whats the status now.
Parts availability is pretty decent through Amain Hobbies with $1.99 shipping for almost everything. I believe RC Mushroom, and RCMart, stock some serpent stuff as well.

Afaik, the Eryx 3.0 is still being made and is available.
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Old 11-18-2015, 02:42 PM   #6833
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OK my buddy and I were thinking about it but as I said before the issue was getting extra parts. I'll have a look at those places.
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Old 11-18-2015, 02:57 PM   #6834
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OK my buddy and I were thinking about it but as I said before the issue was getting extra parts. I'll have a look at those places.
I'm on Mobile so I can't tell if you're in Victoria Australia, or Victoria British Columbia?
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Old 11-18-2015, 02:59 PM   #6835
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Victoria, British Columbia
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Old 11-18-2015, 06:09 PM   #6836
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OK my buddy and I were thinking about it but as I said before the issue was getting extra parts. I'll have a look at those places.
You can also look for parts here at the Australian retailer for Serpent cars, and yes they do international orders.

http://www.walterrchobby.com.au/inde...parts/411.html
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Old 11-18-2015, 06:44 PM   #6837
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Victoria, British Columbia
Gripworks RC out of Langley will be stocking Serpent parts soon, and there is another shop out of Winnipeg that carries some parts online. By far the best option is Amain Hobbies with their USPS super saver shipping until Alex @ Gripworks gets parts in.

Honestly, I haven't broken anything on both my Serpents in 10+ months. With an Xray hard bumper (slight mods to body post holes needed) you will break very few parts. Also, don't use the extra hard parts as they are pretty fragile, stick with hard arms and chubs.
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Old 11-18-2015, 08:24 PM   #6838
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Grip works, I met him last couple weekends at the big chill.
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Old 11-18-2015, 08:56 PM   #6839
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No issues with parts or kit availability of the 3.0 plenty around. RC Market and RC Mushroom both have kits and spares if you have any issues in the US sourcing parts.
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Old 11-18-2015, 08:58 PM   #6840
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We look at it more at axle height and relation to the outdrive, much like diff height but on the outside of the car. I never even looked at caster as I thought the pivot screws passed straight threw the hub itself regardless of which way they mounted.
Ok I hadn't really looked at it that way! Personally I found the bump steering was the major difference when I flipped the blocks. I'll give it another shot when the indoor season properly kicks off here.
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