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Old 07-31-2014, 03:06 PM   #6646
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Originally Posted by snuvet75 View Post
How's ur wheelbase? And did u increase roll center in the rear? Lastly what diff do u use Dan?
Wheelbase is standard i.e. lower wishbone in the middle front and rear and I haven't played much with wheelbase to be honest as in my experience in nitro it made the car a bit nervous when shortened. I need to try it on my 3.0.

I lowered the rear inner link to 2mm and so raised the RC (from 4mm). This added some of the steering I'd lost as the traction increased although I still needed a bit more but didn't want to change the car too much going into the finals.

I run 3,000 cst 4 gears in the rear diff, spool up front.

For completeness the rest of the setup was:

Front:
Shocks - 3-hole delrin with 600 cst. Serpent YELLOW springs middle position
2 degrees camber
0.5 toe out on each wheel
Zero bump stop washers
Steering blocks right way around
Long upper link with 3 mm inner washers zero outside

Centre stiffener tube installed

Rear:
Shocks - 3-hole delrin with 500 cst. serpent BLACK springs 2nd hole from bottom
2.5 degrees camber
3.0 rear block 0.5 front block (2.5 toe in)
Long long upper link 2mm outside washers 2mm inner washers.
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Old 08-01-2014, 09:14 AM   #6647
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Is there an alternate brand of hex ball studs that can be used with the Serpent rod ends for the camber links, or do most of you switch out the rod ends and hex ball studs entirely to another brand? I see guys using Xray rods/studs on their S411's, but the Associated and Team Durango ones are both cheap and easier to get.
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Old 08-01-2014, 09:51 AM   #6648
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Is there an alternate brand of hex ball studs that can be used with the Serpent rod ends for the camber links, or do most of you switch out the rod ends and hex ball studs entirely to another brand? I see guys using Xray rods/studs on their S411's, but the Associated and Team Durango ones are both cheap and easier to get.
I think the Serpent ballstuds are great quality, but if you use the closed-end ballcup they can bind at extreme angles. Using the open-style ballcups can help with this.

Associated ballstuds are a bit more prone to stripping, but don't bind at extreme angles (assuming you use Associated ballcup too). However it is nice having the .75mm (I think?) difference between the Associated silver and black ballstuds for fine tuning if you don't have less than 1mm shims.

XRAY I believe has both 4.8 and 4.9mm ballstuds. I can't remember which size you need but they work great. XRAY ballcups are also indestructible!

Take your pick. I've used all 3 on my cars with no issues
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Old 08-02-2014, 01:45 PM   #6649
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I've kept the standard Serpent ball studs and arms. They are very good quality and I haven't had a problem with them I've also never seen anyone else here have a issue or have substituted them for something else.
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Old 08-02-2014, 04:23 PM   #6650
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Originally Posted by dan_vector View Post
I've kept the standard Serpent ball studs and arms. They are very good quality and I haven't had a problem with them I've also never seen anyone else here have a issue or have substituted them for something else.
The main reason for wanting to know is because my LHS can easily stock Team Durango Parts, and Associated. Anything Serpent related I have to order in, which can be a pain at times.

We've got a few Detc410's at the track so maybe I will try them out and see. Durango stuff is cheap too.
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Old 08-02-2014, 06:42 PM   #6651
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Originally Posted by CamLS View Post
Is there an alternate brand of hex ball studs that can be used with the Serpent rod ends for the camber links, or do most of you switch out the rod ends and hex ball studs entirely to another brand? I see guys using Xray rods/studs on their S411's, but the Associated and Team Durango ones are both cheap and easier to get.
Firstly, people say the ball cups bind at big angles. You have about 20mm of range on the ball cup once everything is installed and ready to run. Yes when you have shocks and wheels off the car the cups do bind at the extreme angles you can make the arms go up to but you will never get this much range in a RTR car. People do run xray parts as the serpent camber links are hudy steel same as the xray. I feel people run these parts because they offer short, medium and long ball studs which is helpful if you want to run ultra high or ultra low roll centres with under 2.5mm or more than 5mm of shims which the serpent ball studs don't like. BUT The xray parts are more expensive than the serpent parts and it's very rare you will run into extreme low or high traction these set up changes work in.

I get a bit of frustrated here as I don't understand why people want to put other brand parts on our cars. The serpent parts are very good and I have had 4 ball cup failures in 3 years. Yes I don't hit much and don't have to run on tight boarded tracks but saying that the spare ball cups are $3ish a packet.

Is it that hard to stock a few parts your LHS doesn't?

I have zero LHS support in the state I live and order all my parts through the Australian distributor who is 3 states away. It takes 4 days to get most orders I place unless I want to fork out extra for overnight shipping. Yes I keep a fair inventory of spares but the car rarely breaks anything. I have campaigned this car for the last 3 years just fine.


Quote:
Originally Posted by CamLS View Post
Anything Serpent related I have to order in, which can be a pain at times.

We've got a few Detc410's at the track so maybe I will try them out and see. Durango stuff is cheap too.

Maybe you should just run a full assoc or Durango package so you can get LHS support for your ride.

Good fast cheap. Choose 2. Fast and cheap isn't good. Just sayin'
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Old 08-02-2014, 07:54 PM   #6652
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Default Servo Horn

Does anyone use a aluminum servo horn if so what part number would it be for a 25 tooth I ordered one but I am sure after trying to put it on it is not the right one for this car.
Thank you.
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Old 08-05-2014, 02:50 AM   #6653
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Does anyone use a aluminum servo horn if so what part number would it be for a 25 tooth I ordered one but I am sure after trying to put it on it is not the right one for this car.
Thank you.
ok NO,,,,,,i would not use or recommend an aluminium one
our novices can break the plastic one but generally after a big hit...we tried aluminium at one point but then you get to buy a servo if you hit things...
carpet seems tougher than tarmac
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Old 08-05-2014, 10:03 AM   #6654
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ok NO,,,,,,i would not use or recommend an aluminium one
our novices can break the plastic one but generally after a big hit...we tried aluminium at one point but then you get to buy a servo if you hit things...
carpet seems tougher than tarmac
Plastic's fine. Servo saver's fine too. But to me, aluminum is the best. Reason being, Plastic horn can strip during crash, Then trim changes. Then you can't drive unless you have amazing ability to adjust the trim during the race. Servo saver is good but the steering arc seems narrower and not as accurate as regular horns. So is the aluminum horn the best. Just my thought..
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Old 08-05-2014, 11:17 AM   #6655
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I just got a Serpent s411 to run VTA with. I'm wondering what pinion I should run with this car with the Novak 25.5 motor and I'm wondering what bodies fit the existing body posts (if there are any)

Thanks!
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Old 08-05-2014, 11:26 AM   #6656
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I just got a Serpent s411 to run VTA with. I'm wondering what pinion I should run with this car with the Novak 25.5 motor and I'm wondering what bodies fit the existing body posts (if there are any)

Thanks!
Smaller,tight track: FDR 3.4-3.6
Large, long track: FDR 3.2-3.4
Body: Any VTA body will fit. Just reamer the holes where the posts are. Just decide how forward you like the body is. If you are an novice, I would put the front end of the body closer to the bumper than usual. That way, you get more stable rear end and less chance to break the front grill of the body during crash. But again, it depends on the body type.
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Old 08-05-2014, 11:53 AM   #6657
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Originally Posted by FullMetalGrave View Post
I just got a Serpent s411 to run VTA with. I'm wondering what pinion I should run with this car with the Novak 25.5 motor and I'm wondering what bodies fit the existing body posts (if there are any)

Thanks!
+1 on what snuvet75 wrote. I have ran the 69 camaro, 68 camaro and as of lately I have been running the javlin which has tons of steering. but any body will fit.
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Old 08-05-2014, 12:34 PM   #6658
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Originally Posted by snuvet75 View Post
Plastic's fine. Servo saver's fine too. But to me, aluminum is the best. Reason being, Plastic horn can strip during crash, Then trim changes. Then you can't drive unless you have amazing ability to adjust the trim during the race. Servo saver is good but the steering arc seems narrower and not as accurate as regular horns. So is the aluminum horn the best. Just my thought..
I have used the Xray X-Stiff servo saver for years without any issues. Always centers, never stripped anything or damaged a servo. On the earlier 411's, you dremeled the carbon fiber plate a little for clearance. On the Eryx, I notched the servo saver itself, but as I am turning down my end points anyway, it was unnecessary.

Quote:
Originally Posted by FullMetalGrave View Post
I just got a Serpent s411 to run VTA with. I'm wondering what pinion I should run with this car with the Novak 25.5 motor and I'm wondering what bodies fit the existing body posts (if there are any)

Thanks!
I have not had any issues with bodies, running either the GT350 Mustang, Javelin or Camaro. FDR will depend on track, motor, temps, and timing. Most used to recommend starting at 4.0 and working from there, though that is fairly conservative these days. I have run as low as a 3.2 and as high as a 4.2.
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Old 08-05-2014, 01:59 PM   #6659
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Originally Posted by Benzaah View Post
Firstly, people say the ball cups bind at big angles. You have about 20mm of range on the ball cup once everything is installed and ready to run. Yes when you have shocks and wheels off the car the cups do bind at the extreme angles you can make the arms go up to but you will never get this much range in a RTR car. People do run xray parts as the serpent camber links are hudy steel same as the xray. I feel people run these parts because they offer short, medium and long ball studs which is helpful if you want to run ultra high or ultra low roll centres with under 2.5mm or more than 5mm of shims which the serpent ball studs don't like. BUT The xray parts are more expensive than the serpent parts and it's very rare you will run into extreme low or high traction these set up changes work in.

I get a bit of frustrated here as I don't understand why people want to put other brand parts on our cars. The serpent parts are very good and I have had 4 ball cup failures in 3 years. Yes I don't hit much and don't have to run on tight boarded tracks but saying that the spare ball cups are $3ish a packet.

Is it that hard to stock a few parts your LHS doesn't?

I have zero LHS support in the state I live and order all my parts through the Australian distributor who is 3 states away. It takes 4 days to get most orders I place unless I want to fork out extra for overnight shipping. Yes I keep a fair inventory of spares but the car rarely breaks anything. I have campaigned this car for the last 3 years just fine.

Maybe you should just run a full assoc or Durango package so you can get LHS support for your ride.

Good fast cheap. Choose 2. Fast and cheap isn't good. Just sayin'
Sorry, I didn't know I wasn't allowed to run any 3rd party parts on my Serpent cars. Not like tie rods and ball studs are going to change the dynamics of the cars, but your concern is noted.
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Old 08-05-2014, 04:36 PM   #6660
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Sorry, I didn't know I wasn't allowed to run any 3rd party parts on my Serpent cars. Not like tie rods and ball studs are going to change the dynamics of the cars, but your concern is noted.
LOL! Really the serpent stuff isn't bad. Only change I considered was using xray cups and ball studs on the top of the c-hubs. I was having an issue with the serpent ball coming loose sometimes, but seems that issue went away. A lot of people run other companies products. Springs for one. Also, I recently wanted to do 6* castor but didn't want to use the aluminum hubs, so I ran the xray spool, Xray DCJ's, c-hubs, knuckles, and something else. Let's just say it was an expensive test, lol. But serpent is releasing plastic c-hubs eventually.
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