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Old 04-19-2014, 07:11 PM   #6436
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Originally Posted by Benzaah View Post
I was never doubting anyone's ability to set up a car. It was actually a question not having a crack! You did see the ??? Right? so yeah Adam can set up a car but by the sounds of it he can't drive it himself lol (sarcasm)

From my experience a harder rear than front has helped due to the huge side walls In the rear tyres. Seeing as I'm not American and I don't run these name dropped events I'll just crawl back in my hole yeah!
You forgot to use the sarcasm font! So either way it's your fault
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Old 04-21-2014, 12:44 AM   #6437
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hi, a quick question for anyone that can answer it. I took my S411 down to the local track today, got halfway through a pack and was finding the thing an absolute pig to drive. It was spinning like top on the track. Letting go of power would see it swap ends. The kit is largely setup as stock so I pulled it off lay the back springs down put some softer springs on the back and tried again, absolutely nothing happened.

Was still horrible, one thing I struggle with having only owned tamiyas is how to setup these sway bars. I feel some of the lack of traction in the rear comes from A. The sway bars B. The front being too soft so the weight is transferring to the front too much.

It's the FF version but the principles remain the same, anyone have a video / link on setting up serpent sway bars?

Cheers

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Old 04-21-2014, 12:44 AM   #6438
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hi, a quick question for anyone that can answer it. I took my S411 down to the local track today, got halfway through a pack and was finding the thing an absolute pig to drive. It was spinning like top on the track. Letting go of power would see it swap ends. The kit is largely setup as stock so I pulled it off lay the back springs down put some softer springs on the back and tried again, absolutely nothing happened.

Was still horrible, one thing I struggle with having only owned tamiyas is how to setup these sway bars. I feel some of the lack of traction in the rear comes from A. The sway bars B. The front being too soft so the weight is transferring to the front too much.

It's the FF version but the principles remain the same, anyone have a video / link on setting up serpent sway bars?

Cheers

Dane
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Old 04-21-2014, 01:13 AM   #6439
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hi, a quick question for anyone that can answer it. I took my S411 down to the local track today, got halfway through a pack and was finding the thing an absolute pig to drive. It was spinning like top on the track. Letting go of power would see it swap ends. The kit is largely setup as stock so I pulled it off lay the back springs down put some softer springs on the back and tried again, absolutely nothing happened.

Was still horrible, one thing I struggle with having only owned tamiyas is how to setup these sway bars. I feel some of the lack of traction in the rear comes from A. The sway bars B. The front being too soft so the weight is transferring to the front too much.

It's the FF version but the principles remain the same, anyone have a video / link on setting up serpent sway bars?

Cheers

Dane
There is a thread specific for the FWD version. This thread is for the 4WD version.

You can find it at SERPENT S411 FWD

However to answer your Q the Sway bars are easy to set up. Start with the rods equal length and ensure the downstops are set correctly. Then with the wheels off the ground connect the sway bar and make sure there is no bias left or right. Adjust as required. Finally connect the shocks and tweek out the car as normal.

Also bring in the UK the grip is probably very low and so you'll need to set the car accordingly. What tires were you using?
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Old 04-21-2014, 05:09 AM   #6440
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Originally Posted by dan_vector View Post
There is a thread specific for the FWD version. This thread is for the 4WD version.

You can find it at SERPENT S411 FWD

However to answer your Q the Sway bars are easy to set up. Start with the rods equal length and ensure the downstops are set correctly. Then with the wheels off the ground connect the sway bar and make sure there is no bias left or right. Adjust as required. Finally connect the shocks and tweek out the car as normal.

Also bring in the UK the grip is probably very low and so you'll need to set the car accordingly. What tires were you using?

Thanks I saw that, but that thread is barely ever watched or commented on.
Thanks for the advice on sway bars. So far it's not well setup at all. But I'll get to work on it see what I can do. Thanks again
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Old 04-21-2014, 05:12 AM   #6441
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Thanks I saw that, but that thread is barely ever watched or commented on.
Thanks for the advice on sway bars. So far it's not well setup at all. But I'll get to work on it see what I can do. Thanks again
Yeah definitely something way out of wack. Reset it all to kit standard and make sure you set with accurate gauges etc.
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Old 04-21-2014, 07:55 AM   #6442
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Just getting my 411 eryx 2.0 up and running and haveing read through most of this thread I see a lot of posts about the slop in the center shaft. Is there a final solution to this issue and is it a performance damaging problem? I couldnt find a definite answer in the thread if any has some insight on this I would appreciate it. Found a YouTube video whee the guy said that the bearing carrier for the TE would fix it but all the part numbers I find are the same.
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Old 04-21-2014, 10:46 AM   #6443
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Originally Posted by scooby61 View Post
Just getting my 411 eryx 2.0 up and running and haveing read through most of this thread I see a lot of posts about the slop in the center shaft. Is there a final solution to this issue and is it a performance damaging problem? I couldnt find a definite answer in the thread if any has some insight on this I would appreciate it. Found a YouTube video whee the guy said that the bearing carrier for the TE would fix it but all the part numbers I find are the same.
Not really sure of this problem, but as long as the spur gear doesn't hit the edges of the top deck, having a bit of float in the center shaft is not a problem as it allows the pulleys to follow the belts.

If the side to side movement is enough to hit the top deck edges you can either shim the center shaft or file the top deck enough to allow clearance.
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Old 04-21-2014, 10:51 AM   #6444
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Not really sure of this problem, but as long as the spur gear doesn't hit the edges of the top deck, having a bit of float in the center shaft is not a problem as it allows the pulleys to follow the belts.

If the side to side movement is enough to hit the top deck edges you can either shim the center shaft or file the top deck enough to allow clearance.
Didn't seem like a serious issue
I think I was confusing the posts about the steering rack but it does seem to have a lot of play in that center shaft but no where near enough to hot the deck.
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Old 04-21-2014, 07:26 PM   #6445
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17.5 blinky mode carpet track 30-40ft straight some technical areas. What should be a good start for gearing. Thank you guys
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Old 04-21-2014, 07:58 PM   #6446
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17.5 blinky mode carpet track 30-40ft straight some technical areas. What should be a good start for gearing. Thank you guys
40ft?

Depends on motor, but that short of a straight start at 4.2ish. I ran an R1 at a 4.0 (max timing) on a 65x40ish track on Friday and the gearing felt good. Add teeth from there as necessary.
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Old 04-22-2014, 03:43 AM   #6447
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Tekin gen 2
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Old 04-22-2014, 08:45 AM   #6448
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I'm new to this so do you think 80 spur and 38 pinion
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Last edited by Revo Dan; 04-22-2014 at 05:51 PM.
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Old 04-22-2014, 08:59 AM   #6449
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I'm new to this so do you think 80 spurge and 38 pinion
http://www.serpent.com/file.php?FileID=5257

Here is the FDR calculator which will allow you to select the right spur/pinion for the 411.

38/80 in 48dp would give you 4.2 but I doubt it'll fit unless you have the v3 motor mount.
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Old 04-22-2014, 05:09 PM   #6450
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Oops....
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