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Old 02-17-2014, 12:08 PM   #6316
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Originally Posted by TerribleTy View Post
Any magic vudouh for the Eryx? I have the car planted more or less curious as to what others are doing. I have the stiff chassis and top deck with the stiffer motor mount. Figured go stiff in high traction and well its carpet season here.
No magic voodoo, the only thing I would check as it has caused some issues, is make sure that your front wheel hexes don't rub on the steering hubs. The bearings sit a little deeper and the flashing of the hubs cause some drag. Only other thing I can suggest is playing with top decks, there is time to be found playing with those.
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Old 02-17-2014, 02:57 PM   #6317
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I have a dummy question, but I need to know....
_Talking about final drive ratio... does it matter how you get to a specific ratio, for example:

assume 48p
26 pinion 72 spur the FDR will be 5.54
similar will be:
30 pinion 83 spur the FDR will be 5.53

does it matter the size of the pinion or the spur or just the FDR ?

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Originally Posted by dan_vector View Post
No it doesn't matter. Stick to the confines of this table and you'll be fine

http://www.serpent.com/file.php?FileID=5257
I was going to ask his question because I was talking to one of my friends and he was saying that bigger spur makes a difference even if the FDR's same. He couldn't give the theory behind it and I wanted to ask you too.
I've always thought it's just the FDR that matters, not the sizes of pinions or spurs. But I sort of remember a thread that discusses the possible difference between spur sizes even with same FDR.
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Old 02-17-2014, 03:30 PM   #6318
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The front and rear belt tension adjustment can help for traction ??
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Old 02-17-2014, 06:20 PM   #6319
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Great deal

NEW Parts Serpent ERYX fire sale
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Old 02-17-2014, 07:15 PM   #6320
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Hi Guys,
I haven't been on here in quite awhile. It is good to see all the familiar faces.
How is the latest version of the s411 holding up on race day (outdoor)? I still have my s411 le but haven't ran much do to my sons busy soccer schedule and moving to a new city.
Is the new version easier to get rear grip out of and how does it measure up against the other kits?
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Old 02-17-2014, 07:28 PM   #6321
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Originally Posted by rdlkgliders View Post
Hi Guys,
I haven't been on here in quite awhile. It is good to see all the familiar faces.
How is the latest version of the s411 holding up on race day (outdoor)? I still have my s411 le but haven't ran much do to my sons busy soccer schedule and moving to a new city.
Is the new version easier to get rear grip out of and how does it measure up against the other kits?
Loved my ERYX, let others drive it, Xray, etc drivers and they liked it. You cant go wrong. I always had good rear grip.
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Old 02-17-2014, 07:29 PM   #6322
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The front and rear belt tension adjustment can help for traction ??
From my experience with other cars, that I think is probably applicable to the serpent... If the rear belt is too tight relative to the front, it can make the back end of the car kick out when you get onto the power. Likewise if it's too loose, it can cause the front to totally wash out. It's all about which end gets hit with the power first. Also, if the belts are tighter overall, it can be less efficient, can make the power hit too hard (like in modified), and can even lead to broken belts.

So it depends on what kind of traction problem you're trying to solve, but yes, belt tension changes should be noticeable, and bad settings can make the car handle poorly when you get on power. Or even onto the brakes.

-Mike
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Old 02-17-2014, 08:07 PM   #6323
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Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
From my experience with other cars, that I think is probably applicable to the serpent... If the rear belt is too tight relative to the front, it can make the back end of the car kick out when you get onto the power. Likewise if it's too loose, it can cause the front to totally wash out. It's all about which end gets hit with the power first. Also, if the belts are tighter overall, it can be less efficient, can make the power hit too hard (like in modified), and can even lead to broken belts.

So it depends on what kind of traction problem you're trying to solve, but yes, belt tension changes should be noticeable, and bad settings can make the car handle poorly when you get on power. Or even onto the brakes.

-Mike
I didn't know the tightness of the rear belt can do such a thing Mike. It's a really amazing finding to me. Why does it happen by the way? Belt being tighter than the other belt transmits more power?
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Old 02-17-2014, 09:29 PM   #6324
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When there is slack in the belt and you apply power or brake, it takes a split second to take up the slack before it actually engages. So if you have more tension (less slack) in one belt, that end will engage slightly sooner.
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Old 02-18-2014, 05:26 PM   #6325
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When there is slack in the belt and you apply power or brake, it takes a split second to take up the slack before it actually engages. So if you have more tension (less slack) in one belt, that end will engage slightly sooner.
So I guess this may be more apparent with high torque when the car accelerates such as nitro cars and modified class? Would the tighter rear belt make the car's rear step out exiting corner?
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Old 02-18-2014, 11:33 PM   #6326
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Default oh ratio ratio

Quote:
Originally Posted by snuvet75 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Byronf1 View Post
I have a dummy question, but I need to know....
_Talking about final drive ratio... does it matter how you get to a specific ratio, for example:

assume 48p
26 pinion 72 spur the FDR will be 5.54
similar will be:
30 pinion 83 spur the FDR will be 5.53

does it matter the size of the pinion or the spur or just the FDR ?



I was going to ask his question because I was talking to one of my friends and he was saying that bigger spur makes a difference even if the FDR's same. He couldn't give the theory behind it and I wanted to ask you too.
I've always thought it's just the FDR that matters, not the sizes of pinions or spurs. But I sort of remember a thread that discusses the possible difference between spur sizes even with same FDR.
Bigger gears have more teeth engaged than little gears....and thus are a little smother and better at high speed but not necessarily high acceleration.

Little gears have less mass and can accelerate better....but not as smooth

so thats the theory but at the end of it the working ratio is the same so thats it a simply as i can grasp it

now steppin out out of corners thats something iv con cored and i need to know more...what track /tyre combo and class of motor
A lot of the step out seems to occur from too little ride height at our track but i need to understand your track a little first...

BELT TENSION CREATES DRAG....and too much drag when throttling off could cause step out but once again i need to know more as it adds to braking
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Old 02-19-2014, 12:00 AM   #6327
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Bigger gears have more teeth engaged than little gears....and thus are a little smother and better at high speed but not necessarily high acceleration.

Little gears have less mass and can accelerate better....but not as smooth

so thats the theory but at the end of it the working ratio is the same so thats it a simply as i can grasp it

now steppin out out of corners thats something iv con cored and i need to know more...what track /tyre combo and class of motor
A lot of the step out seems to occur from too little ride height at our track but i need to understand your track a little first...

BELT TENSION CREATES DRAG....and too much drag when throttling off could cause step out but once again i need to know more as it adds to braking
Track: large outdoor asphalt. Usually hot in southern CA. Traction is low to medium.
Car: My Eryx is fantastic. My nitro sedan has that problem but foam tires in low traction track.. it's expected sliding. Everyone has it. Not only out of corner but everywhere LOL. More rear toe in than 3 and camber at 3.5 or more seem to make things better.
I was more or less asking generally in an effort to understand the theory behind it. Thank you my friend.
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Old 02-19-2014, 12:23 AM   #6328
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Originally Posted by snuvet75 View Post
Track: large outdoor asphalt. Usually hot in southern CA. Traction is low to medium.
Car: My Eryx is fantastic. My nitro sedan has that problem but foam tires in low traction track.. it's expected sliding. Everyone has it. Not only out of corner but everywhere LOL. More rear toe in than 3 and camber at 3.5 or more seem to make things better.
I was more or less asking generally in an effort to understand the theory behind it. Thank you my friend.
we generally run rubber tires but look too rear toe in and dont be scared of running carpet tires on asphalt,,,,just some hints the but reducing rear toe and raising ride height+ shortening top arm in the rear.
This induces short long suspension geometry which add neg as the weight is transferred to the wheel

Carpet tires tend to not pick up as much stuff of the track....and lastly try no goop
running without it will cut the variables of the first 3 minutes
try it youll be surprised
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Old 02-19-2014, 12:52 AM   #6329
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we generally run rubber tires but look too rear toe in and dont be scared of running carpet tires on asphalt,,,,just some hints the but reducing rear toe and raising ride height+ shortening top arm in the rear.
This induces short long suspension geometry which add neg as the weight is transferred to the wheel

Carpet tires tend to not pick up as much stuff of the track....and lastly try no goop
running without it will cut the variables of the first 3 minutes
try it youll be surprised
You mean rubber tires in nitro? You must have misunderstood me. Rubber tires in nitro cars don't work well due to the weight and torque. When I tried rubber tires on my nitro, they worked fine only briefly at the beginning and the car started sliding uncontrollably unlike foam tires' sliding.
Carpet tires on asphalt track.. I will certainly try it. Last time I tried those, the car was all over the place though.
I know short upper links create more camber rise but increasing ride height and reducing rear toe?? Why? If you reduce rear toe(I assumed you meant e.g. from -3 to -1), the rear looses traction. How can this translate into less stepping out?? What I said earlier was proven by testing. I was using 2.5 rear toe in and then increased it later to 3.5 and the car went more stable...
Regarding the spur gear size, so you're saying the size of the spur doesn't matter as far as FDR remains same. Correct? Please enlighten me. Thanks.
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Old 02-19-2014, 02:02 AM   #6330
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Originally Posted by snuvet75 View Post
You mean rubber tires in nitro? You must have misunderstood me. Rubber tires in nitro cars don't work well due to the weight and torque.
Carpet tires on asphalt track.. I will certainly try it.
I know short upper links create more camber rise but increasing ride height and reducing rear toe?? Why? If you reduce rear toe(I assumed you meant e.g. from -3 to -1), the rear looses traction. How can this translate into less stepping out?? What I said earlier was proven by testing. I was using 2.5 rear toe in and then increased it later to 3.5 and the car went more stable... Please enlighten me JAM.
we ran the 1/12 on carpet tires on ashphalt......1 set of tires all day in mod and a 4th outright

ps we test too so try my suggestion first...i was bemused when it worked as well thinking that a low cg was the whole game....watching the car yaw and the tire add neg
we run heavier bars at the front


On another note what class are you running......what oil in the diff what tires..we use ride/muchmore/sorex....and panaracers
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