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Old 02-02-2014, 09:21 AM   #6271
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So ahh, I'm finding the 411 a bit more complicated to work on compared to the mi4 cx. Is there a way to alter gear mesh/change motor/pinion without needing a) a ball end driver and going through the holes in the spur gear or having to remove the top plate and what not?.. I'm sure there must be an easier solution that I am just not seeing here.
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Old 02-02-2014, 09:54 AM   #6272
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Use 401601. it has 2 holes on the bottom away from the spur

it is 29.95 Euro
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Old 02-03-2014, 09:21 AM   #6273
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Originally Posted by orcadigital View Post
My personal opinion is that the majority of the handling, and specifically matching that handling to your driving style and the track conditions, are not shock and spring dependent. My own experience (so take that into account), is that weight transfer (roll centers and droop) and contact patch (camber and camber gain) have the largest impact on handling. Not to say the other pieces are not important, but once you get them correct, I do not see a lot of adjustment necessary as track conditions change. I have been running the same shock and spring package for over a year now (rebuilt many times, but same pistons and oils). I adjust droop and roll centers as conditions change, sometimes shock mounting positions, and maybe up or down a sway bar for small "feel" adjustments.
Hi I am new running 1/10, I been running MiniZ past 7 years, how you archive weight transfer... I built my car as the manual says, and have been playing with the shocks and its placement, the track is very low traction and little bumpy... what can I do to have more rear traction, I already put 25 silicone oil grade to the differential V3... I am with black springs on front and white rear, 6mm ride height Fr and 7 on rear. I move the spacer on the rear camber links to near the tire... to raise the RC. The camber on the Fr is 1 and Re is 2. What are for the spacers on the hinge pins rear and front, just for the wheelbase?
My car is S411 TE....
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Old 02-04-2014, 09:00 PM   #6274
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Hi I am new running 1/10, I been running MiniZ past 7 years, how you archive weight transfer... I built my car as the manual says, and have been playing with the shocks and its placement, the track is very low traction and little bumpy... what can I do to have more rear traction, I already put 25 silicone oil grade to the differential V3... I am with black springs on front and white rear, 6mm ride height Fr and 7 on rear. I move the spacer on the rear camber links to near the tire... to raise the RC. The camber on the Fr is 1 and Re is 2. What are for the spacers on the hinge pins rear and front, just for the wheelbase?
My car is S411 TE....
Hi and welcome to Serpent.

Not sure if I totally understand you question, but, the spacers on the hinge pins are for wheelbase adjustments. You can also adjust your lower roll center by using either the 0.5mm or the 1mm shims.

Some of the things you can also consider on the TE would be to run the V2 motor mount leg and use the 2.0mm super flex top deck. Also either shim your top deck up by 1mm using spacers, or cut your idler shaft uprights down 1mm if you have the old ones, so they don't touch the top deck and then do not use the screws in the idler uprights (8 screws in the top deck instead of 10).

Other things to consider are going to the floating steering servo mount, and going to the V2 composite gear diff. All are upgrades that will bolt onto your existing car with no problems.
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Old 02-05-2014, 08:05 AM   #6275
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Hi and welcome to Serpent.

Not sure if I totally understand you question, but, the spacers on the hinge pins are for wheelbase adjustments. You can also adjust your lower roll center by using either the 0.5mm or the 1mm shims.

Some of the things you can also consider on the TE would be to run the V2 motor mount leg and use the 2.0mm super flex top deck. Also either shim your top deck up by 1mm using spacers, or cut your idler shaft uprights down 1mm if you have the old ones, so they don't touch the top deck and then do not use the screws in the idler uprights (8 screws in the top deck instead of 10).

Other things to consider are going to the floating steering servo mount, and going to the V2 composite gear diff. All are upgrades that will bolt onto your existing car with no problems.
Thank you very much! I already order V2 Motor mount, V3 composite diff, and floating servo I hope to install them this week, Ok I just to want be sure about spacer on the hinge pins thanks, about this if my track is very low traction, I should use long wheelbase as possible, correct? and the last question about the rollcenter spacers, if I want more traction on the rear, I shoud add spacers on the rear ? On the green part where is the idler uprights and how to know if I have the old ones?
thanks again...
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Old 02-05-2014, 10:06 AM   #6276
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Thank you very much! I already order V2 Motor mount, V3 composite diff, and floating servo I hope to install them this week, Ok I just to want be sure about spacer on the hinge pins thanks, about this if my track is very low traction, I should use long wheelbase as possible, correct? and the last question about the rollcenter spacers, if I want more traction on the rear, I shoud add spacers on the rear ? On the green part where is the idler uprights and how to know if I have the old ones?
thanks again...
Long wheelbase would be a good starting point, but don't get locked into thinking its the best, only you will be able to determine that depending on what the car is doing or what you want the car to do. I believe more of your traction can be found with camber and rc adjustments. Lower rc adjustments are very large and make big swings in the feel of a car, in your case you would probably want the car to roll more which should feel like better traction, right until it breaks loose or hits the chassis.

The lowered idler shaft blocks or uprights can be determined by looking at your car in final assembly. If the top deck touched the uprights they are the first version ones or the tall ones. If you have a 1mm gap between the uprights and the top deck then they are the lowered ones. Take note that if you do have the lowered ones that if you use the screws in the uprights that you'll be required to run 1mm spacers between the top deck and the uprights or you'll have a tweek in the car.
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Old 02-06-2014, 11:42 PM   #6277
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Originally Posted by Byronf1 View Post
Thank you very much! I already order V2 Motor mount, V3 composite diff, and floating servo I hope to install them this week, Ok I just to want be sure about spacer on the hinge pins thanks, about this if my track is very low traction, I should use long wheelbase as possible, correct? and the last question about the rollcenter spacers, if I want more traction on the rear, I shoud add spacers on the rear ? On the green part where is the idler uprights and how to know if I have the old ones?
thanks again...
You can get your car planted in the rear by this:
1. Put more droop(like 4-5mm) in the front. (same as low front downstop(2-3).)
2. High RC front, Low rear.
3. Lower ride height to 4.5-5mm. The bottom chassis might touch ground at turns. Check it every run and adjust ride height and/or RC and/or springs and/or shock oils.
4. Thin oil(30-40Wt) and softer springs(white, black, gray).
5. More camber in rear than in front. Start with 2 R 1.5 F. Check camber rise too.
6. Laid down shock F, more standing R. Don't make'em too different from each other. Or the car will act strange from my experience.
7. Loose the stiffner screws on top deck.
8. anti dive in the front.
9. thinner rear diff oil. (800-1000cst)
10. More rear toe in(3 degree). Don't go beyond this. Most tires don't allow slip angle at more than 3 degree.

I guarantee you that you will get the car's ass glued. I know so from my experience in my local track LOL. Then work your way up to the opposite side of setting to gain more steering because your car will push like a bitch once you made these changes.
I wouldn't mess with wheelbase at the beginning. If you don't know what you're doing, you might imbalance the chassis and the car will act weird.
I would put 800cst in rear diff and 1000cst in hot weather if you plan to run in the track you mentioned exclusively and forget about it. Cuz changing diff oil constantly is not realistic though some of the guys here do it on regular basis. But they are not you. LOL
So bottom line work my list down and ask again. Lots of guys here are very helpful and knowledgeable. Welcome to Serpent!!
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Old 02-07-2014, 06:18 AM   #6278
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It depends where the back end is loose, acceleration, cornering, in, out, etc. I would not thin the rear diff oil depending on the situation. I built several diffs for testing, and with the traction we have at our track, 800 and 1200 caused the back end to rotate uncontrollably. 2000 calmed it down, and I used roll center adjustments from there. I also run 3.5* rear toe and am quite happy with it.
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Old 02-07-2014, 08:04 AM   #6279
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Thank you, I will try, just to confirm how to rise:

snuvet75:
2. High RC front, Low rear.


orcadigital:
the back is loose whe I do cornering out....


Thanks, both....
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Old 02-07-2014, 08:07 AM   #6280
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Originally Posted by Byronf1 View Post
Thank you, I will try, just to confirm how to rise:

snuvet75:
2. High RC front, Low rear.


orcadigital:
the back is loose whe I do cornering out....


Thanks, both....
more camber - heavier diff ?
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Old 02-07-2014, 09:03 AM   #6281
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Originally Posted by Byronf1 View Post
Thank you, I will try, just to confirm how to rise:

snuvet75:
2. High RC front, Low rear.


orcadigital:
the back is loose whe I do cornering out....


Thanks, both....
If it is lose on corner exit, I would increase front droop (let the arms come down more and transfer more weight rear) and/or thicken the rear diff oil (one side is getting more power then the other and causing you to lose rear grip). You can also lay in the rear shocks to get a more progressive push on the rear tires which may prevent it from breaking lose if you are exiting aggressively.
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Old 02-07-2014, 09:37 AM   #6282
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It depends where the back end is loose, acceleration, cornering, in, out, etc. I would not thin the rear diff oil depending on the situation. I built several diffs for testing, and with the traction we have at our track, 800 and 1200 caused the back end to rotate uncontrollably. 2000 calmed it down, and I used roll center adjustments from there. I also run 3.5* rear toe and am quite happy with it.
I've been running 1000cst diff in rear for a long time and it's been fine. It depends on the track like you said. Front drivning is slower of course than 2000.
I tried 3.5 toe as well and it slowed me down by .3 sec per lap. Probably your track is shorter and tigher than mine? Our track is quite big and has long straight away and maybe 3.5 toe dragged me down on the straight away. Not sure about in fields. I was using Sorex and Sweep and both same.
Can you send me your setup Orca? I would like to see
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Old 02-07-2014, 11:09 AM   #6283
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I've been running 1000cst diff in rear for a long time and it's been fine. It depends on the track like you said. Front drivning is slower of course than 2000.
I tried 3.5 toe as well and it slowed me down by .3 sec per lap. Probably your track is shorter and tigher than mine? Our track is quite big and has long straight away and maybe 3.5 toe dragged me down on the straight away. Not sure about in fields. I was using Sorex and Sweep and both same.
Can you send me your setup Orca? I would like to see
Track is definitely small and tight. Fast laps in 17.5 TC are high 9, low 10 sec. Corner speed and car rotation are where it is all at. We also don't even have a full straight. I run Jacos, but many others are running the Sweep QTS 32's.

I'll get a setup sheet put together as I did not document any of my changes from our race a couple weeks ago. Part of the fun of running 2 classes, not enough time to keep everything organized.
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Old 02-07-2014, 11:31 AM   #6284
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Track is definitely small and tight. Fast laps in 17.5 TC are high 9, low 10 sec. Corner speed and car rotation are where it is all at. We also don't even have a full straight. I run Jacos, but many others are running the Sweep QTS 32's.

I'll get a setup sheet put together as I did not document any of my changes from our race a couple weeks ago. Part of the fun of running 2 classes, not enough time to keep everything organized.
Our track time is 18 seconds average per lap with long straight away for 17.5T TC. Gotta have top speed.
I run 3-4 classes including nitro LOL. Impossible to keep up. I should stop doing that. None of the cars I have feel like they are being taken care of properly at the track.
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Old 02-07-2014, 12:04 PM   #6285
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snuvet,

you can try this setup, I ran in a nitro track, open, wide, good stright and it keep the car planted:

Front:
ride green srping, 3 hole 450 cst 3 hole.
1.5 camber, 0.5 toe out
f2.0-r1.0 toe blocks with 0.5 shimm
Rc, 0 aou, 4 inside, short link position
1.4 bar 5.5 downstop

Rear
ride green spring, 3 hole 450 cst, 5 hole in the tower.
2. camber
f0.0-r2.0 toe blocks with no shimm
Rc: 3mm in the hub, 4mm in the inside. Positions, short in the hub, and in the inner hole
1.4 bar, but in the outside of the arm, it makes de car easier to drive
3000cst in the diff

mazda speed6
Ride re32


As you reduce the toe-in in the rear you will have a little more speed, but the car will keep his rear planted
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