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Old 01-22-2014, 06:29 AM   #6241
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Originally Posted by tiago890 View Post
Thanks, i ordered a V2 diff should have it by Thursday and will test it out over the weekend.
I still run V1 diffs.

If you are slinging sluid on the belts and body, I would guess it is leaking between the case halves and not at the outdrives. You may need to replace the o-ring seal between the halves. I also make sure to coat the seal in green slime, and also the mating surface between the halves, including around the bolt holes. I have never had a 411 gear diff leak, using 700 - 2k in the rear.

V2 diffs are same case, orings, etc I think? Just different gears and outdrives?
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Old 01-22-2014, 07:59 AM   #6242
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Thank you all, I get the v2 diff tomorow and will make sure to clear all the flash off and green slim everywhere needed including the screw holes. Thanks for all the help and will deffinitly let everyone know the out come after this Sundays race.
Cheers fellas
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Old 01-22-2014, 09:27 AM   #6243
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What's the largest spur gear you can use with the V3 motor mount to achieve a 4 FDR, running Blinky
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Old 01-22-2014, 02:04 PM   #6244
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What's the largest spur gear you can use with the V3 motor mount to achieve a 4 FDR, running Blinky

Max tooth count is 150, so in theory you could run 50/100, BUT its really tight on the V3 mount, (anything equal to 150) at 148 it was pretty good, but wrong fdr for you. Next best would be 49/98 or 48/96.

From here http://serpent.com/product/400013/downloads/
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Old 01-22-2014, 02:29 PM   #6245
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Max tooth count is 150, so in theory you could run 50/100, BUT its really tight on the V3 mount, (anything equal to 150) at 148 it was pretty good, but wrong fdr for you. Next best would be 49/98 or 48/96.

From here http://serpent.com/product/400013/downloads/

Thanks, I plan on going to track this weekend to put foot to ass
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Old 01-22-2014, 08:32 PM   #6246
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Front Wheel nut coming loose: Make sure your wheel is not rubbing on the Knuckle it self where the hex goes in.

Diff leaking: make sure you get the molding flashes off on the mating faces before assembly. most people just build right out of the box...
So what would you do if the diff cases don't flash to each other?
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Old 01-23-2014, 01:14 AM   #6247
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So what would you do if the diff cases don't flash to each other?
the amount of reuse ability of the actual cases is my biggest gripe but as two of the offending cars were second hand may bee that was the root cause.

make sure that the screws haven't pulled proud leaving a raised edge....relieve the bur with a small drill tip

grease the oring,,,,Oring grease is what i use but it makes a difference. The different density of the to liquids keeps them apart and stops the oring from pinching

try to put the screw back into the same thread and not strip them out....the nature of the self tapers is pretty vicious....pretty much the same and finally

a new diff case aint that dear so i at times put the old gears in new
case....problem solved
tell us how you go.....
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Old 01-23-2014, 02:00 AM   #6248
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Is there any rumbling when the next iteration of this car(Eryx 3.0?) may be released? It would be irritating to buy the kit and see a new version released in a month. I'm estimating the Eryx 2.0 has been out about a year.
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Old 01-23-2014, 06:50 AM   #6249
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Is there any rumbling when the next iteration of this car(Eryx 3.0?) may be released? It would be irritating to buy the kit and see a new version released in a month. I'm estimating the Eryx 2.0 has been out about a year.
I'm in the same boat but on a 200mm front. The Toy Fair in Germany starts the 29th so we have a week or so to wait and see what is all announced.
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Old 01-23-2014, 08:43 AM   #6250
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try to put the screw back into the same thread and not strip them out....the nature of the self tapers is pretty vicious....pretty much the same and finally

The rule of thumb I use when re-using a self tapping screw into a existing hole, is to take the screw and turn it in reverse rotaion, you should be able to feel the screw back out a little and then it will drop into the already cut threads, then proceed to tighten as usual. I find if I do this I get a lot more re-usability out of plastic parts.
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Old 01-23-2014, 08:54 AM   #6251
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So I never used the self tappers. I bought these from the beginning and have never had an issue. I wanted to avoid the phillips head and and go to a machine thread. I had meant to buy a 2.6mm tap, but never got around to it.

http://www.hpiracing.com/en/part/94154
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Old 01-26-2014, 10:07 PM   #6252
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Questions re shock positions and roll center:
1. Does laying down shocks give more traction really? Some say the opposite. Personally I've never experienced noticible change,especially in the back end.
2. By theory, laying down shocks provide progressive damping so that it give more traction at the beginning and longer rolling time. VIce versa with stand up shocks. Is this correct?
3. Lower roll center in the rear gives more traction and less responsive car. Some say high roll center gives more traction in the rear. I've thought the former is right all the time. Which is right? Lower roll center certainly make the car lazier. That, I know.
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Old 01-27-2014, 06:26 AM   #6253
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Hello,

Does anyone have a basic modified set up with the ride rex30 tires ( the green ones).
I practiced at an high grip circuit to find an starting setup for this weeks ets at germany but didn't find any good starting point. I tried alot of things but had to stop every time after 2minutes in race because my car wasn't driveable. In warm up the car suffered from grip roll and. Once the race started the back end became loose when exiting the corner. Some advice? Finding grip is often easier than getting rid of it
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Old 01-27-2014, 06:36 AM   #6254
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Originally Posted by snuvet75 View Post
Questions re shock positions and roll center:
1. Does laying down shocks give more traction really? Some say the opposite. Personally I've never experienced noticible change,especially in the back end.
2. By theory, laying down shocks provide progressive damping so that it give more traction at the beginning and longer rolling time. VIce versa with stand up shocks. Is this correct?
3. Lower roll center in the rear gives more traction and less responsive car. Some say high roll center gives more traction in the rear. I've thought the former is right all the time. Which is right? Lower roll center certainly make the car lazier. That, I know.
1. Yes and no. Laying down the shock will usually increase side bite more noticably then forward bite. You can lay them down too far and begin to get the opposite effect also. This also assumes you are in the correct area for your shock and spring package already. If you are too soft or too hard, the effects will be less noticable. I stood up my rear shocks 2 holes in the race over the weekend to get a little more rear end rotation (less planted) to increase my corner speed. Idealy, you would like the front and rear shocks to be at approximately the same angle when looking front to back.

2. That is correct as I understand it. At full load, the pressure on the tire should be near the same, but how quickly it applies the pressure to the tire is what changes. Laying the shock down applies the pressure more slowly at first, which helps prevent overloading the tires traction at initial turn in.

3. Most adjustments on an RC car will do one thing, then potentially the opposite if you take it too far. Roll center is included in that. Responsive is hard to quantify. More traction can be more responsive as the car will respond quickly to changes in direction. Less traction can also be more responsive as it allows you to rotate the car (increasing slip) more quickly. As far as changes to roll center, driving the car is really the best way to feel the difference, as it does not equate as directly to traction as it does weight transfer. Moving the lower mount (hingepin block) has a greater effect then spacers on the camber link. Keep that in mind when trying new things to feel the difference.
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Old 01-27-2014, 06:44 AM   #6255
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathan c. View Post
Hello,

Does anyone have a basic modified set up with the ride rex30 tires ( the green ones).
I practiced at an high grip circuit to find an starting setup for this weeks ets at germany but didn't find any good starting point. I tried alot of things but had to stop every time after 2minutes in race because my car wasn't driveable. In warm up the car suffered from grip roll and. Once the race started the back end became loose when exiting the corner. Some advice? Finding grip is often easier than getting rid of it
I do not have a good mod setup, but some thoughts on what you are experiencing.

For traction roll, I usually look at ride height and camber/camber gain. Lessening the front camber can help prevent roll, and if the car starts to push, you can adjust shock/spring setup, sway bar, and/or roll centers to work on bringing it back. Lowering ride height can also help, but mostly an issue if it is just too high. Less droop can also help as it effects not only front/rear weight transfer, but also left/right.

If the back end is becoming lose on exit, especially if you are also traction rolling, I usually look at the rear diff. Thicker oil may help. Beyond that, you may look at softening the rear end, making it lazier. It depends if you are losing traction due to wheel spin or overcoming the side bite in the tire. Increased camber gain can help also (assuming it is primarily on power that you are running into this).
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