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Old 01-20-2014, 12:46 AM   #6226
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Originally Posted by jdawg81 View Post
I've been racing my S411 ERYX for a few months and I've noticed that the front wheel nuts always become loose. If I don't remember to tighten them back down after each race they just keep getting looser until the point it falls off along with my wheel. I've tried different wheel nuts and that hasn't helped at all. Is anyone else having this issue?
There have been some issues with the newer kit front knuckles and the bearings not seating properly. The down side of this is the wheel hex rubs on the knuckle and can heat up causing the wheel nut to come loose. Pull your front hex off and check for rubbing on the knuckle. Unfortunately you'll be up for a set of new knuckles. The latest batch does not have this issue. I believe it was a running change to a harder plastic compound which shrank more than the older softer plastics.
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Old 01-20-2014, 09:49 AM   #6227
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Originally Posted by tiago890 View Post
First time on the track today after a month and half off, put the djc's on last night And the difference was like night and day. Car handled better into and out of the turns which actually got me a few extra seconds on the race and 1 extra lap. Any one have any good solution to fix the leaking diff, besides replacing it with something else,
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I have been running the stock diffs with very little leakage, when I put them togeather I use green slime on the orings which seems to help.


Quote:
Originally Posted by jdawg81 View Post
I've been racing my S411 ERYX for a few months and I've noticed that the front wheel nuts always become loose. If I don't remember to tighten them back down after each race they just keep getting looser until the point it falls off along with my wheel. I've tried different wheel nuts and that hasn't helped at all. Is anyone else having this issue?
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Originally Posted by Benzaah View Post
There have been some issues with the newer kit front knuckles and the bearings not seating properly. The down side of this is the wheel hex rubs on the knuckle and can heat up causing the wheel nut to come loose. Pull your front hex off and check for rubbing on the knuckle. Unfortunately you'll be up for a set of new knuckles. The latest batch does not have this issue. I believe it was a running change to a harder plastic compound which shrank more than the older softer plastics.
I have been taking a dremmel cutoff wheel to the front knucles, and the rear uprights, sanding them down just enough so I have clearance between the plastics and the hexes. I've always done it, so didn't even think it was a casting problem, thanks for bringing that up.
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Old 01-20-2014, 02:06 PM   #6228
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Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone View Post
I have been running the stock diffs with very little leakage, when I put them togeather I use green slime on the orings which seems to help.






I have been taking a dremmel cutoff wheel to the front knucles, and the rear uprights, sanding them down just enough so I have clearance between the plastics and the hexes. I've always done it, so didn't even think it was a casting problem, thanks for bringing that up.


I also put green slime on the orings but still get a little leak and once i run the car i get diff fluid on the inside of my body and the rear belt. Does anyone know if the V2 Gear diff is any better than the stock? Does it leak like the stock? Is it worth upgrading?
Thanks,
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Old 01-20-2014, 03:16 PM   #6229
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Originally Posted by tiago890 View Post
I also put green slime on the orings but still get a little leak and once i run the car i get diff fluid on the inside of my body and the rear belt. Does anyone know if the V2 Gear diff is any better than the stock? Does it leak like the stock? Is it worth upgrading?
Thanks,
Every gear diff leaks little by little over time from my experience at some degree. Obviously that amount of leakage is not normal. You should not see any apparent leakage even w/o putting any slimes around the diff case cuz I never put the slime and everytime I rebuild my diffs, I see plenty of oil left inside. Not sure what I have but I have Eryx and I'm pretty sure it's the V2. Mine doesn't have that problem. Maybe you got a bad batch of molding.
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Old 01-20-2014, 03:57 PM   #6230
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Originally Posted by tiago890 View Post
I also put green slime on the orings but still get a little leak and once i run the car i get diff fluid on the inside of my body and the rear belt. Does anyone know if the V2 Gear diff is any better than the stock? Does it leak like the stock? Is it worth upgrading?
Thanks,
Are the internal gears metal or composite? V1 are metal V2 are composite. Are you running the shim between the big gear and the oring? How much slop do you have between the outdrive and the casing? Without the big gear on the outdrive, can you wobble the outdrive in the case hole a lot? How full are you filling the diff and what make and thickness are you using?
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Old 01-20-2014, 05:48 PM   #6231
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Are the internal gears metal or composite? V1 are metal V2 are composite. Are you running the shim between the big gear and the oring? How much slop do you have between the outdrive and the casing? Without the big gear on the outdrive, can you wobble the outdrive in the case hole a lot? How full are you filling the diff and what make and thickness are you using?
I have the v1 with the metal gears, I use AE 1000 diff fluid with a few drops of 3000 in it to thicken it up a bit, I want to pull the trigger on the v2 diff, but also want to make sure it's worth it. What do you guys suggest, also what are your thoughts on the v2 motor mount? Besides being able to fit a wider variety of pinions is there any other use for it.
Thanks for all the help.
Cheers,
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Old 01-20-2014, 05:49 PM   #6232
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Sorry forgot to mention the diff is shimmed and there is no wobble in the outdrives
Thanks
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Old 01-20-2014, 10:34 PM   #6233
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Default I think this can have been part of my problem!

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Originally Posted by Benzaah View Post
There have been some issues with the newer kit front knuckles and the bearings not seating properly. The down side of this is the wheel hex rubs on the knuckle and can heat up causing the wheel nut to come loose. Pull your front hex off and check for rubbing on the knuckle. Unfortunately you'll be up for a set of new knuckles. The latest batch does not have this issue. I believe it was a running change to a harder plastic compound which shrank more than the older softer plastics.
I looked at my front knuckels after your post. I see that they have been "worn in" My "newer" car has had the inconsistency in behaviour, done the tweeks suggested by the comunity and in the end it has picked up the speed looking at the clock. I wounder if this has been the major contributor all the time..
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Old 01-21-2014, 12:26 AM   #6234
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Originally Posted by Linguster View Post
I looked at my front knuckels after your post. I see that they have been "worn in" My "newer" car has had the inconsistency in behaviour, done the tweeks suggested by the comunity and in the end it has picked up the speed looking at the clock. I wounder if this has been the major contributor all the time..
havn"t experienced this but here goes

I always find that one side front is tighter and the other looser and its not at every track.
it depends on the drive at the track and the style of braking on the track.

as the cars bolts are right handed and the nature of the rims one tends to tighten an the other loosens due to flex in the hex at the drive..
if we realy try we have actually striped the hex drive /oheated the tyre and left the nut still on the car( Rare event but our m
mates taimiya did it a week later after he did the same thing)

as for the knuckles im not sure what you refering as theirs know knuckles listed
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Old 01-21-2014, 03:13 AM   #6235
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as for the knuckles im not sure what you refering as theirs know knuckles listed
I mean Steering blocks sorry.
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Old 01-21-2014, 03:29 AM   #6236
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I looked at the outside of the steering block and there was distinctive wear marks in the plastic from the hex. I took out the bearings and sanded of the outerpart of the steering block to make sure there was clearance. This is how I interpreted yours and Garys answers.
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Old 01-21-2014, 10:50 AM   #6237
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Originally Posted by tiago890 View Post
I have the v1 with the metal gears, I use AE 1000 diff fluid with a few drops of 3000 in it to thicken it up a bit, I want to pull the trigger on the v2 diff, but also want to make sure it's worth it. What do you guys suggest, also what are your thoughts on the v2 motor mount? Besides being able to fit a wider variety of pinions is there any other use for it.
Thanks for all the help.
Cheers,
The V2 is a nice upgrade because of the composite gears and the aluminum outdrives, which make it smoother and lighter. Unless your old diff has excessive slop in the outdrive holes, I have no idea why its leaking that bad, but you shouldn't be throwing diff fluid on the body...a little weeping will happen but not to your extent. Maybe its a bad housing, idk.

I'm thinking that the V2 mounts in circulation now have the lower motor mount screw hole, so this makes it a nice unit for screw access if your running bigger spur gears. Also most of the current setups run the V2 (1pce) mount as a tuning option and it seems to save spur gears better on high impact crashes (less flex between the motor and the idler pulley).

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Originally Posted by Linguster View Post
I looked at the outside of the steering block and there was distinctive wear marks in the plastic from the hex. I took out the bearings and sanded of the outerpart of the steering block to make sure there was clearance. This is how I interpreted yours and Garys answers.
Bjorne, you where the first person I thought of when this topic came up with the demon car. I, myself didn't have this rub issue, but a front wheel bearing the kept binding up caused me some very weird problems.
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Old 01-21-2014, 01:37 PM   #6238
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Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone View Post
The V2 is a nice upgrade because of the composite gears and the aluminum outdrives, which make it smoother and lighter. Unless your old diff has excessive slop in the outdrive holes, I have no idea why its leaking that bad, but you shouldn't be throwing diff fluid on the body...a little weeping will happen but not to your extent. Maybe its a bad housing, idk.

I'm thinking that the V2 mounts in circulation now have the lower motor mount screw hole, so this makes it a nice unit for screw access if your running bigger spur gears. Also most of the current setups run the V2 (1pce) mount as a tuning option and it seems to save spur gears better on high impact crashes (less flex between the motor and the idler pulley).



Bjorne, you where the first person I thought of when this topic came up with the demon car. I, myself didn't have this rub issue, but a front wheel bearing the kept binding up caused me some very weird problems.
Thanks, i ordered a V2 diff should have it by Thursday and will test it out over the weekend.
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Old 01-21-2014, 08:57 PM   #6239
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Originally Posted by Benzaah View Post
There have been some issues with the newer kit front knuckles and the bearings not seating properly. The down side of this is the wheel hex rubs on the knuckle and can heat up causing the wheel nut to come loose. Pull your front hex off and check for rubbing on the knuckle. Unfortunately you'll be up for a set of new knuckles. The latest batch does not have this issue. I believe it was a running change to a harder plastic compound which shrank more than the older softer plastics.
I took the wheel hex off and I can't tell if it's rubbing or not. With the wheel hex on there's very little gap so it may have been rubbing. I'll take them off and sand them down a bit so that I know for sure it's not rubbing anymore. I'll find out if this works or not when I race again next time and check to see if the wheel nuts are still loosening over time.
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Old 01-22-2014, 04:13 AM   #6240
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Front Wheel nut coming loose: Make sure your wheel is not rubbing on the Knuckle it self where the hex goes in.

Diff leaking: make sure you get the molding flashes off on the mating faces before assembly. most people just build right out of the box...
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