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Old 01-07-2014, 01:59 PM   #6196
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Originally Posted by Holmenkollen View Post
Mmm, droop can be a very powerful tool. I will try some things. Thanks!
I re-read your post, and might want to change my suggestion.

If it's getting down to the apex, rotating around the apex, but it's only on-power on exit that's pushing / washing out, I'd try thicker on the rear diff first. More front droop will probably make that worse, and shock angle changes might not help it.

If it's getting down to the apex, but it's NOT rotating around the apex and pointing you towards the exit, then I'd stand by my original suggestions.

-Mike
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Old 01-08-2014, 12:05 AM   #6197
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Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
I re-read your post, and might want to change my suggestion.

If it's getting down to the apex, rotating around the apex, but it's only on-power on exit that's pushing / washing out, I'd try thicker on the rear diff first. More front droop will probably make that worse, and shock angle changes might not help it.

If it's getting down to the apex, but it's NOT rotating around the apex and pointing you towards the exit, then I'd stand by my original suggestions.

-Mike
The car doesn´t rotate around the apex so your intial suggestions with droop might do it.
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Old 01-09-2014, 03:35 PM   #6198
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What's the rule of thumb for rear gear diff thickness for tight indoor carpet?
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Old 01-09-2014, 08:34 PM   #6199
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What's the rule of thumb for rear gear diff thickness for tight indoor carpet?
I have run anywhere from 500 to 3000 and if I where running on a tight indoor track, depending on if the corners are really tight, i'd be running 700 to 1200. This would really depend on how the car is reacting in the exit off of the corner. If the car feels like it wants to over rotate on exit I would run lighter oil. If it still feels good on exit, I would keep going up.
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Old 01-12-2014, 03:56 PM   #6200
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Hello

I have one question for @ #iZzy and all other. Whic plastic we are using standar (from kit), medium or hard? I last 3 race with some pratice using all hard plastic (arm, rear hub and c hub). Everything working pety good. But I noticed to the hard arm have more play than the standar. Looks like have a lite biger hole for pivot pin.
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Old 01-12-2014, 03:56 PM   #6201
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Double post.
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Old 01-13-2014, 09:02 AM   #6202
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Hello

I have one question for @ #iZzy and all other. Whic plastic we are using standar (from kit), medium or hard? I last 3 race with some pratice using all hard plastic (arm, rear hub and c hub). Everything working pety good. But I noticed to the hard arm have more play than the standar. Looks like have a lite biger hole for pivot pin.
#iZzy has moved to another team so I'm not sure how active he will be on the thread anymore.

I haven't had a new kit in a while, so I can't comment on which arms come in the kit (guessing medium), but whichever ones you get or use, do not ream the holes. The pins should be snug to the arms and all the rotation should happen in the suspension bushings.
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Old 01-13-2014, 09:04 AM   #6203
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just a little advance notice to someone who may be looking to get into serpent. after wcics5 january 10th, my s411 te will be available for sale used. I like the car and im not selling it cause i have a problem with it, i just need to dredge up some cash for real car stuff, and i wont get to race it again until outdoor season sometime in april/may, by which time i might have money to replace it with an eryx =D

anyway. its a 2012TE with ceramic wheel and layshaft bearings. pretty much stock. ill include a fairly sizable stash of medium hardness parts and hardware i got from the original purchase.. Might start asking around $225 for it. ill entertain offers.
it will of course be officially posted on january 12th after the mains finish up lol.

again. i love my serpent, but i have to move cash around this spring and find $950 from somewhere by february.

shipping anywhere in the world will be included in my price. car comes presassmbled, shimmed ect as perfect as i can make it.
Just wondering how you did at the Vic WCIC race?
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Old 01-13-2014, 09:07 AM   #6204
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Originally Posted by Linguster View Post
I stayed with the new Eryx at yesterdays race, old car stayed with "mentally difficulty" in pitbag

We were racing in a gym with "virgin" carpet. "Big" track and around 11 seconds in laptimes in the end of the day.

I had gone through the car and double checked according to suggestions, no real obvious finding just minor adjustments. I did the tweek on a borrowed Muchoore glas board and not only on the blocks.

I changed to Arc orings in shocks and build a 3000 Arc diff based on Gebrits tip. The feel in the 3000Arc diff was equal to my 1200 all serpent.

Track going from no tracion to Low in the end of the day.

Car (me) did preform pretty consistant and I could trust the car. Still off pase a notch compared with the guys I normally race with
Hi Bjorne, did you talk to any of the Serpent team about your demon car? I see by the race results you didn't fair to well, so what happened?
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Old 01-13-2014, 09:22 AM   #6205
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Originally Posted by DomenL View Post
Hello

I have one question for @ #iZzy and all other. Whic plastic we are using standar (from kit), medium or hard? I last 3 race with some pratice using all hard plastic (arm, rear hub and c hub). Everything working pety good. But I noticed to the hard arm have more play than the standar. Looks like have a lite biger hole for pivot pin.
Hi,
I experienced the same, as some others also mentioned before. The solution is to glue the hole of the lower arms, let them dry, and ream them again to have them fit tight to the pin. I additionally stratched the inside surface of the suspension arm hole with a knife or the tip of body reamer, so that it creates even tighter fit.
I believe this is a problem that some new batches of medium arms also have. (Same material as in the kit, but loose pin hole.)
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Old 01-13-2014, 12:44 PM   #6206
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Hi Bjorne, did you talk to any of the Serpent team about your demon car? I see by the race results you didn't fair to well, so what happened?
Hello Gary

DHI was not a success. It is a lot of good racers there. I think I preformed well during practice. During the qualification I had some bad luck/lack of experience. I did not improve my best time from practice. Everyone else did improve their result when the grip came up in the carpet. I am not used to the high level of grip you get int the carpet with all these racers. It was not like Vegas but a lot compared to the races home in Sweden.

During the practice I switched the cars and went with the "old" car it was faster and more consistent.

I learned the leasson not to use to much motor on these type of races. My more well know swedish top drivers are not using 4.5 with boost and turbo on these type of highgrip tracks. Last final I ran blinky, expo -75% and EPA at 90% then I could stay on the raceline more than seconds....

I tried to make some contact with Fischer but no luck. It was not like approaching Paul L or Drew Ellis.....
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Old 01-13-2014, 01:59 PM   #6207
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I tried to make some contact with Fischer but no luck. It was not like approaching Paul L or Drew Ellis.....
If you need info just go to Fischers mechanic! His name is Jirka a funny nice guy always ready to help or Ehrbar the co constructor of the s411. Fischer is a little bit grumpy guy
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Old 01-13-2014, 06:49 PM   #6208
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Marc don't speak a lot with people he don't know, so that's why he seems to be maybe a bit grumpy. It's only because it's his "character", some people are are telling you a whole book and others only the least amount of words on first met

second point is that he is really focused on his racing, i don't know a lot people which are focused at track like him. He loves rc-racing more than anything else ^^

I knew him now for some years and i can really say that he is a funny guy, had a lot of nice trainings and races with him - only the first impression is maybe sometimes a bit "grumpy"

As Geberit said, you can always ask his mechanic Jirka or Ehrbar, they both will help you for sure. Jirka does a good job, he know alot about setup and co.

@DomenL
last info which i have is that the plastic parts are still in "medium" hardness. marc don't glue the pivot holes and also don't ream them. He used hard plastic all around, too.

Maybe interesting for some people: he used at recent trainings the stock chassis again instead of the 2.0 hard. he said it seems to be more consistent on low-med carpet tracks, but on high-grip like ets etc. it seems that the hard 2.0 is the preferred choice for him.
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Old 01-15-2014, 03:14 PM   #6209
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Built up an S411 Sport TC to run in VTA class. Ran the car for the first time this past Sunday, and it ran really well. Previously, I had been running a HB Cyclone/Exotek car, and it was fast, but kinda aggressive. The S411 has just as much steering, but is smoother through and out of the corners. The only upgrades I bought for the car to start with were the DCJ front driveshafts and the 411 Sport swaybar kit. Put the DCJ's in the front and moved the stock CVDs to the rear, and didn't use the stock rear dogbones.

The only issues I had with the build were 1) the stock shock orings, and 2) fitting VTA wheels on the car. The stock shock orings had a ton of stiction, so I replaced the upper stock oring with a kyosho x-ring. Shocks felt good after that.

Ran 850 PT front oil, stock 3 hole pistons, and 22lb corally springs on front. 500 PT oil, 3 hole pistons, and 12lb corally springs on the rear. Outer holes on the arms, and inner holes on the towers, front and rear. 1.4 front swaybar, 1.2 rear swaybar.

had to use some different wheel hexes, with wider offsets, to get the VTA wheels to fit on the car and clear the shock bottoms and steering knuckles. I re-used some hexes that I was using on the HB car. Not exactly sure what brand they are, as they came with my used HB car. I 'think' they are Xray +1.5mm hexes in the front (305353) and +.75mm hexes in the rear (305352) I couldn't find any HB/HPI offset hexes, so I'm guessing Xray. Anyway, the car needs offset hexes no matter what.

Ordered a complete V2 rear gear diff w/aluminum outdrives, to take some weight off the drivetrain and pick up some acceleration out of the corners. The stock rear gear diff felt good though. Smooth diff action, not leaking, good grip in the corners with the stock 1200 oil.

All in all, a solid car for VTA. Even with the heavier fiberglass chassis and towers I still had to add about 4.5 oz of lead to make VTA min. weight.
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Old 01-15-2014, 03:36 PM   #6210
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Good to hear you're liking the car in VTA. Just wondering which wheels you're running? I have a set that require no shims or extra wide hexes, yet another driver here has different wheels and did have to space the wheels out........so I'm thinking there are variances in the wheels. (mine are the black coloured steel wheel style)

Good luck with the car in VTA, it should work well.
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