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Old 12-13-2013, 11:25 AM   #6136
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Are these in stock anywhere in the US?

Thanks,

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Old 12-13-2013, 12:14 PM   #6137
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Default My New Eryx must have been made on a monday...

Back after training with the new Eryx. I am now at 20 runs with it and it is not working at all.

Two things sorted out, the shocks and the DJC axles. The outer Kyosho bearings will not make the pin rub on the bering. And picking the 4 o-rings out of 3 bags with the least resistance.

But new things occur. Running with Hagberg, Vässmar and Nilsson. I was all over the track, really "showing off" the beginner I am.... I could not run a consistance lap. Home again pulling the car appart.

Noticing that the arms are very "loose" on the inner pivot pin and that the steering rack was very loose even with the plastic bag "trick"

Comparing with my older Eryx's there is not near the slope in their arms. I have probably 300 runs on each of them. Now in the middle replacing front and rear arms with older "newer" medium arms. They have a nice snug fit on the pivot pin. The kit arms has M engraved, they seems to be from a really lousy batch.

I also tryed ones that are engraved with M of my spare parts. They do not fit snug on the pivot pin. I needed to look through my spares to find the older "newer" arms. The ones where the lid that holds the swaybar arm did not fit directly without modification.

If I understand correct, the idea is that the pivot pin should move in the pivot ball not that the arm should rotate on the pivot pin.

Last edited by Linguster; 12-13-2013 at 12:59 PM.
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Old 12-13-2013, 12:51 PM   #6138
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Back after training with the new Eryx. I am now at 20 runs with it and it is not working at all.

Two things sorted out, the shocks and the DJC axles. The outer Kyosho bearings will not make the pin rub on the bering. And picking the 4 o-rings out of 3 bags with the least resistance.

But new things occur. Running with Hagberg, Vässmar and Nilsson. I was all over the track, really "showing off" the beginner I am.... I could not run a consistance lap. Home again pulling the car appart.

Noticing that the arms are very "loose" on the inner pivot pin and that the steering rack was very loose even with the plastic bag "trick"

Comparing with my older Eryx's there is not near the slope in ther arms. I have probably 300 runs on each of them. Now in the middle replacing front and rear arms with older "newer" medium arms. They have a nice snug fit on the pivot pin. The kit arms has M engraved, they seems to be from a really lousy batch.

I also tryed the ones that are engraved of my spare parts. They do not fit snug on the pivot pin. I needed to look through my spares to find the older "newer" arms. The ones where the lid that holds the swaybar arm did not fit directly without modification.

If I understand correct, the idea is that the pivot pin should move in the pivot ball not that the arm should rotate on the pivot pin.
I had one arm that seemed a little looser than the other three on my car, seemed to not have a lot of time on it either. I ended up removing the arm and running some fast glue down the pin hole, let it dry and then used a 3mm reamer to reopen the hole to the proper size and angle. Put it back togeather and haven't had a issue with it since.

Thats correct, the pin should be snug in the arm and only pivots in the pivot ball.

You may have to re-do the steering rack with the bag mod but double up on the thickness to get all the slop out.

Then you should be able to go out and beat those guys.
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Old 12-13-2013, 12:56 PM   #6139
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The slop bugs me too, but I can never feel the difference on the track. I wouldn't worry about it too much.
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Old 12-13-2013, 03:16 PM   #6140
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Thanks guys! V3 mount on the way.

Jim
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Old 12-13-2013, 04:32 PM   #6141
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The best thing I have found to cure the steering rack slop and have it stay good for a really long time is:

super glue the flanged bearings into the rack, top and bottom, You only need a little glue so it does not run all over the place

use the .13mm shim from this set and put one on the top of each of the flanged bearings http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...pacer-Shim-Set

use a 3x5x.2mm shim in between the pressed in bearing and swing arms.

This way there will only be the play thats in the ball cups.
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Old 12-14-2013, 09:40 AM   #6142
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The slop bugs me too, but I can never feel the difference on the track. I wouldn't worry about it too much.
I think I speak for most of the WCICS drivers when I say; please, don't make your car any faster then it is already.
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Old 12-14-2013, 11:11 AM   #6143
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Hey man, somebody has to stop Wayne Mah
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Old 12-14-2013, 03:41 PM   #6144
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What is the ideal body for carpet racing, I'm still trying to get up to speed from my long layoff from racing, thanks
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Old 12-14-2013, 04:40 PM   #6145
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What is the ideal body for carpet racing, I'm still trying to get up to speed from my long layoff from racing, thanks
Around here everyone runs the Mazda speed 6
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Old 12-14-2013, 06:01 PM   #6146
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too bad you and wayne wont be at round 5 steve. its gonna be fricken epic this year.

not too much love for the serpent around here. i think only two in our club but a few more on the mainland.
i definitely wont be making a stab at the podium this year. but making the a main would be fantastic.
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Old 12-14-2013, 07:46 PM   #6147
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What is the ideal body for carpet racing, I'm still trying to get up to speed from my long layoff from racing, thanks
In general I start with the Mazda Speed 6 on carpet and the LTC-R on asphalt. I will however try the other body on both surfaces to compare at some point during the day. I find the speed 6 is a very balanced body whereas the LTC-R has a bit more front end which can make the rear end loose on carpet.
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Old 12-14-2013, 08:40 PM   #6148
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In general I start with the Mazda Speed 6 on carpet and the LTC-R on asphalt. I will however try the other body on both surfaces to compare at some point during the day. I find the speed 6 is a very balanced body whereas the LTC-R has a bit more front end which can make the rear end loose on carpet.
Thanks
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Old 12-15-2013, 01:53 AM   #6149
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Default 0,2 seconds "found" with snug pivot pins in arms but stilll 0,2 short

Back at the track again yesterday, "new" Eryx easier to drive but still slower compared to when I switch to older Eryx.

Back to taking the car appart and try to find/figure out where the "missing" time is.
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Old 12-17-2013, 05:55 AM   #6150
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Back at the track again yesterday, "new" Eryx easier to drive but still slower compared to when I switch to older Eryx.

Back to taking the car appart and try to find/figure out where the "missing" time is.
IMO running 2 cars in the same class is counter productive and you lose focus when tuning set up. 0.2 is starting to split hairs and could be many places in the car. My first query is are both your motors equal? Ie I have 3x d3.5's and 1 is definitely quicker than the other 2 at the same timing mark on the can. Are the tyres the same age and wear? How worn in is your diff? Cleaned and lubed bearings? (Kit bearings are full of crap grease) Are both cars tweak free and sway bars set the same? There is potentially 0.4 there!

For starters I'd put the electrics from the fast car in the slower car and repeat to make sure that's not the difference.
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