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Old 11-30-2013, 08:10 AM   #6061
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Thanks for the input on the yoko springs.
Maybe I'll give them a shot.

On asphalt grey fronts and rear blacks seemed to work very well but on carpet the grey springs felt a little too soft so I switches the fronts to black and the car feels pretty good.
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Old 11-30-2013, 12:13 PM   #6062
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Hi! it was me driving 411 Sport!

This year we had TTS(Turkish Touring Series) and I attended mod and stock. with stock category I used 411 sport. Series was 5 legs and best 3 out of 5 would be champion. I easily won first three and became Stock champion very early in the season, against high end cars like Xray T4, Yokomo Bd7. I also used the car in carpet prior to the season in Cyprus. Car was so good that I have beaten nearly most if not all of the modified results in the technical track. Only option parts were DJC shafts, alu solid axle and v3 rear diff if I recall correct. I did not even change any suspension parts, all were "old" mediums which were really soft compared to newest hard parts.


With fiberglass chassis and topdeck, car is for sure stiffer than the eryx. lower chassis is 3mm thick and 96 grams compared to a standart 2.25 chassis(about 60 grams) This is the biggest cause of this overweight car, but it really doesnt hurt performance too much.


Actually I want to share my dilemmas about this car versus eryx with everyone here. things that affect handling wise, biggest difference is in chassis flex, roll center and cg height.

1- we have extra 0.75mm chassis thickness in sport, so that if I adjust my sport to have 5mm ride height, it is actually 5.75mm if I used 2.25mm chassis with same suspension geometry

2- plastic toe blocks in the kit : it is like if you have aluminium toe blocks from eryx, you have to put 1.3mm roll center shims to achieve same height of the plastic toe blocks!!!

so this car is very stiff, and has very high roll center compared to ERYX!!!
I am lately very curious to try this kind of geometry in my eryx: that is, with 2.0mm hard chassis, fiberglass or old 411 hard topdeck, 5mm ride height and 2mm roll center shims all around under the toe blocks, correcting camberlink inner shims to have same camber gain,. with this setup, you have pretty much same roll center but have very low CoG compared to 411 sport.

Please share your ideas about this if you have any
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Old 12-01-2013, 04:20 PM   #6063
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Hi Guys, for an actual Eryx kit - what parts are a must have in your opinion?

Whats about the new 2.0 stiff chassis, hard wishbones, uprights, c-hubs, other motormounts, springs and so on ?
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Old 12-01-2013, 05:37 PM   #6064
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Quote:
Originally Posted by #iZzy View Post
Hi Guys, for an actual Eryx kit - what parts are a must have in your opinion?

Whats about the new 2.0 stiff chassis, hard wishbones, uprights, c-hubs, other motormounts, springs and so on ?
IMO The front DJC shafts are about the only must have item now plus some springs to tune with. Kit springs are a good start but the new short ride springs are the go. The 2.0 chassis is nice for carpet but not a must have. All the new plastics are great. The V3 motor mount is only required if you are running very low fdr in blinky.
Just make sure you have some 0.5mm shims as the car reacts to fine adjustments.
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Old 12-02-2013, 12:52 AM   #6065
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Thanks

Currently my plans are to drive blinky classes between 10.5 and 17.5, mostly 13.5. Ets ans so on gear ratio i think is between 4.0-5.0, on my old first s411 i used often 84t 48dp, can soneone recommend good 64dp values? Wanna switch that.

Whats better on the new 2.0 chassis. i know, asmer uses stock chassis on last ets so it should work?

Shims i have enough, dcjs i have new ones too from the past.

Are gray springs in the kit? I have the ride mr33 from the past and hpi, nobody using this anymore?
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Old 12-02-2013, 12:53 AM   #6066
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Default Comparing my new Eryx kit with old

I am a little bit puzzeled running the cars back to back.

Putting the new kit together the toleranses seemed to be tighter all over. I did no grinding, just put the kit together.

I have identical setting on the cars, shocks,springs,motor, speedo, same set of tires etc. I have runned the new kits around 15 times over three weekends. Taken it appart and checked everything, it seems to move freely except for the pistons that are still tighter in the house than my older sets of shocks and the bearings in the hubs. I do not understand why but it seems to be less clearence between the pin and the bearing. When you have the hex on it does not move super smoth that I am used to.

With that in mind I am still puzzled that I am running in average 0.5 second slower with my new chassie, not what I had in mind getting a new one....

Any thoughts out there?
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Old 12-02-2013, 01:07 AM   #6067
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I have not realy runned the 2.0 and 2.25 back to back. But on my "level" of driving skills I can not realy tell the difference. I though have broken one 2.0 hard under the rear bulk without any real impact.
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Old 12-02-2013, 01:08 AM   #6068
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Linguster View Post
I am a little bit puzzeled running the cars back to back.

Putting the new kit together the toleranses seemed to be tighter all over. I did no grinding, just put the kit together.

I have identical setting on the cars, shocks,springs,motor, speedo, same set of tires etc. I have runned the new kits around 15 times over three weekends. Taken it appart and checked everything, it seems to move freely except for the pistons that are still tighter in the house than my older sets of shocks and the bearings in the hubs. I do not understand why but it seems to be less clearence between the pin and the bearing. When you have the hex on it does not move super smoth that I am used to.

With that in mind I am still puzzled that I am running in average 0.5 second slower with my new chassie, not what I had in mind getting a new one....

Any thoughts out there?
I also have a brand new kit, the tolerances are better and everything seems a bit more tighter without binding.

With the new kit Im struggling, as I were with my old kit, with grip and balance on low grip carpet with Sorex 28. The car have a lot less grip than Xray T414, Yokomo BD7 and Tamiya 418. Its really hard to drive consistent. With medium to high grip the car is a lot better. Ive tried a lot of changes and different setups but the car just floats on the carpet, I have a lot less tire wear than others. So Im a bit puzzled and dont really know what to do. A friend who watched my car said it doesnt settle on acceleration, it bounces around. Ive tried different droop settings without any major differences.
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Old 12-02-2013, 01:21 AM   #6069
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Originally Posted by #iZzy View Post
Thanks

Currently my plans are to drive blinky classes between 10.5 and 17.5, mostly 13.5. Ets ans so on gear ratio i think is between 4.0-5.0, on my old first s411 i used often 84t 48dp, can soneone recommend good 64dp values? Wanna switch that.

Whats better on the new 2.0 chassis. i know, asmer uses stock chassis on last ets so it should work?

Shims i have enough, dcjs i have new ones too from the past.

Are gray springs in the kit? I have the ride mr33 from the past and hpi, nobody using this anymore?
On asphalt I have been running Ride
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Old 12-02-2013, 03:17 AM   #6070
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Holmenkollen View Post
I also have a brand new kit, the tolerances are better and everything seems a bit more tighter without binding.

With the new kit Im struggling, as I were with my old kit, with grip and balance on low grip carpet with Sorex 28. The car have a lot less grip than Xray T414, Yokomo BD7 and Tamiya 418. Its really hard to drive consistent. With medium to high grip the car is a lot better. Ive tried a lot of changes and different setups but the car just floats on the carpet, I have a lot less tire wear than others. So Im a bit puzzled and dont really know what to do. A friend who watched my car said it doesnt settle on acceleration, it bounces around. Ive tried different droop settings without any major differences.
How is your rear gear diff built? I have found that the weight (cst) of the oil can be really important if the car is doing weird things. I would also think about shocks, and how they are built, are the springs to stiff, oil too heavy, etc. Lastly tire prep of course is always important too.

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Old 12-02-2013, 04:57 AM   #6071
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Thanks for the Answers

Maybe someone can give me an working spur-gear/pinion combination in 64dp which can be used for an fdr between 4.0-5.0 ?
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Old 12-02-2013, 05:12 AM   #6072
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I took one shock from the new car and one "old" shock that moves freely. I started to interchange the parts. My initial thought was that the delring piston was slightly to big or that the house was slightly smaller.

Running the old piston and shock shaft in the new house it was still not smoth. Using the new piston and shock shaft in old house it was smoth. Then I change the o-ring and it did not still move freely. With my analysis I would say that the "housing" of the O-ring in the body that came with the new kit is to small and i get the "binding" of the shock shaft.

This is equal on all four shocks. This could explain the 0.5 seconds in my earlier post. The binding was more than I tought and was obvious when I compared with an "old" shock.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Linguster View Post
I am a little bit puzzeled running the cars back to back.

Putting the new kit together the toleranses seemed to be tighter all over. I did no grinding, just put the kit together.

I have identical setting on the cars, shocks,springs,motor, speedo, same set of tires etc. I have runned the new kits around 15 times over three weekends. Taken it appart and checked everything, it seems to move freely except for the pistons that are still tighter in the house than my older sets of shocks and the bearings in the hubs. I do not understand why but it seems to be less clearence between the pin and the bearing. When you have the hex on it does not move super smoth that I am used to.

With that in mind I am still puzzled that I am running in average 0.5 second slower with my new chassie, not what I had in mind getting a new one....

Any thoughts out there?
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Old 12-02-2013, 05:24 AM   #6073
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Are you using the kit black o-rings for the shocks? These are not as good as the spare parts bagged clear ones. The new diff gears can also be a bit tighter than the old stock. Sanding the 4 small gears only has freed up my newer diffs. I found too much backlash when sanding the big gears as well.
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Old 12-02-2013, 05:53 AM   #6074
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Are you using the kit black o-rings for the shocks? These are not as good as the spare parts bagged clear ones. The new diff gears can also be a bit tighter than the old stock. Sanding the 4 small gears only has freed up my newer diffs. I found too much backlash when sanding the big gears as well.
I am using the clear ones. They are stock in the new kit. I tried also new "spare part" clear ones. Sitting at work... not being able to focus on work... I was thinking it could maybe be that the bottom "cap" presses to much on the O-ring when tightend. I will try to switch the cap or untie the cap a little when I get home.
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Old 12-02-2013, 06:09 AM   #6075
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Originally Posted by Linguster View Post
I am using the clear ones. They are stock in the new kit. I tried also new "spare part" clear ones. Sitting at work... not being able to focus on work... I was thinking it could maybe be that the bottom "cap" presses to much on the O-ring when tightend. I will try to switch the cap or untie the cap a little when I get home.
I had also the problem some shocks didnt move freely! But then I remembered that I changed the o-rings only on two shocks since I didnt have more at home at that moment. So I opened all four and compared them! They were of different size just by looking at them you could see the outer diameter was bigger!

The clear O-rongs can be of different size, depending of the badge you got them from. The slightly bigger o-rings came with the ERYX kit (one of the first ones!) Later when I purchased more of them they were all the same.

The problem was when I tightened the lower cap the o-ring got compressed too much and it bind the shock shaft!
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