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Old 10-26-2013, 01:46 AM   #5971
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Want
I have new one, do you want it?
brand new.
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Old 10-26-2013, 06:08 PM   #5972
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This... Arm sweep works in a similar manner to inboard rear toe, in that it affects the rate of camber change. Adding more sweep will give more mid-exit, and less initial.
But also need to bare in mind that just adding sweep will also shorten the front wheelbase, which in turn also change the ackerman... it's why I would tend to adjust the wheelbase when changing sweep as well. Honestly, normally ended up on 1.5/1.5 or 2.0/1.5 front blocks, seemed to be the best compromise.

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So what's the difference between 1.5/1.5 and 2.0/1.5? I thought the number on lateral side of the car would change the toe and obviously that's not the case. Then what's the "/"?
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Old 10-26-2013, 06:59 PM   #5973
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So what's the difference between 1.5/1.5 and 2.0/1.5? I thought the number on lateral side of the car would change the toe and obviously that's not the case. Then what's the "/"?
These numbers are in reference to the front and rear block positions on that end of the car. Ie 2/1.5 front means you have the solid 2 block at the very front of the car and you are using the 1.5 split blocks in the rear position on the front end and with this setting you have half a degree of arm sweep. 1.5/1.5 is zero arm sweep. Ie a car with 2/2 blocks will also be slightly wider than a car with 1.5/1.5 blocks. Front toe is set with the turn buckles as you have moving steering blocks so the blocks only achieve arm sweep and track width.

In the rear it's a different story as we have a fixed point on the rear hub so the blocks in the rear will set your toe and also track width. Ie a 0/3 set up means the 0 split blocks in the rear front position and the 3 block in the rear rear position will give you 3 degrees of rear toe. I hope this makes sense.

With my current set up I always run a 2/1.5 split up front and I will run 3mm of shims in front of the arms to get my desired wheel base. You are shifting the axle point slightly longer than the kit 2/1 setting and this can make the car a little docile with the longer wheelbase. Same in the rear I like to run 0.5/3.5 blocks to maintain a 3 degree rear toe but make the rear end slightly wider to have a bit more stability on power. This setting also slightly affects the rear wheel base so I have adjusted this as well and I'm running 4mm of shims in the front arm spacing to move that more in line with the factory settings.

HTH
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Last edited by Benzaah; 10-26-2013 at 08:36 PM.
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Old 10-27-2013, 08:03 AM   #5974
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Anyone else have front C hub breakage problems? I seem to have the worst luck with the front C hubs. Yesterday we were doing a test and tune followed by some scrimmage races and I ended up not getting to start my sedan. Now given the simple fact that the breakage is caused by me and only me they still seem to be very fragile. I am the one trying to hug the boards as tight as possible so I do take full credit for the cause. I can barely knick the board and it will fold my left front up over my servo like I berried it in full blast. I'm using the standard Med plastics and am going to go aluminum to try and take care of the problem. My question is with the different level of plastics what is everyone seeing durability wise?
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Old 10-27-2013, 11:06 AM   #5975
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I use medium plastics, I found the hard ones to be slightly more brittle. I wouldn't get the aluminum ones, that's just going to be expensive when you bend it.

I think the key is to get a wider, harder bumper. I'm currently using this one from RSD:
http://www.reflexracing.net/RSD-Blan...r-_p_1315.html

Since installing it on both cars, I've only broken 1 C-hub in a full-speed collision with someone's foot which also broke the top deck in half.
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Old 10-27-2013, 08:43 PM   #5976
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Forgive me for not going through all 399 pages just yet, but how is this car out of the box? How is the ESC/motor (I will be running 2S), and how is parts availability, both replacement and upgrades? I'm considering picking one up as a re-entry into RC, and a HPI Sprint 2 Flux is the other choice on my wish-list right now, (though I have another thread looking for options, just to keep this thread on topic, it's titled "Best RTR for under $400?". I can't post links yet ) just wondering how it fairs both on a track and the street. What can I expect? There's not a whole lot of info out there on this. Well, besides this enormous thread anyway lol.
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Old 10-28-2013, 01:33 AM   #5977
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Originally Posted by TerribleTy View Post
Anyone else have front C hub breakage problems? I seem to have the worst luck with the front C hubs. Yesterday we were doing a test and tune followed by some scrimmage races and I ended up not getting to start my sedan. Now given the simple fact that the breakage is caused by me and only me they still seem to be very fragile. I am the one trying to hug the boards as tight as possible so I do take full credit for the cause. I can barely knick the board and it will fold my left front up over my servo like I berried it in full blast. I'm using the standard Med plastics and am going to go aluminum to try and take care of the problem. My question is with the different level of plastics what is everyone seeing durability wise?
I done it all ripped the whole arm off the car, etc. Never broke a Chub. I think its just luck of the draw. Car is very durable.
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Old 10-28-2013, 07:55 AM   #5978
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Originally Posted by Benzaah View Post
These numbers are in reference to the front and rear block positions on that end of the car. Ie 2/1.5 front means you have the solid 2 block at the very front of the car and you are using the 1.5 split blocks in the rear position on the front end and with this setting you have half a degree of arm sweep. 1.5/1.5 is zero arm sweep. Ie a car with 2/2 blocks will also be slightly wider than a car with 1.5/1.5 blocks. Front toe is set with the turn buckles as you have moving steering blocks so the blocks only achieve arm sweep and track width.

In the rear it's a different story as we have a fixed point on the rear hub so the blocks in the rear will set your toe and also track width. Ie a 0/3 set up means the 0 split blocks in the rear front position and the 3 block in the rear rear position will give you 3 degrees of rear toe. I hope this makes sense.

With my current set up I always run a 2/1.5 split up front and I will run 3mm of shims in front of the arms to get my desired wheel base. You are shifting the axle point slightly longer than the kit 2/1 setting and this can make the car a little docile with the longer wheelbase. Same in the rear I like to run 0.5/3.5 blocks to maintain a 3 degree rear toe but make the rear end slightly wider to have a bit more stability on power. This setting also slightly affects the rear wheel base so I have adjusted this as well and I'm running 4mm of shims in the front arm spacing to move that more in line with the factory settings.

HTH
funny now y'all want to talk about arm sweep and turn in lol. I didn't know anything about this till I talk to chicky this weekend at the Halloween classic when I saw how his car turn in.
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Old 10-28-2013, 01:27 PM   #5979
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I put both my sedans up... Great condition!!

FS: Serpent S411 Eryx and TE Editions
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Old 10-28-2013, 02:04 PM   #5980
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Originally Posted by TerribleTy View Post
Anyone else have front C hub breakage problems? I seem to have the worst luck with the front C hubs. Yesterday we were doing a test and tune followed by some scrimmage races and I ended up not getting to start my sedan. Now given the simple fact that the breakage is caused by me and only me they still seem to be very fragile. I am the one trying to hug the boards as tight as possible so I do take full credit for the cause. I can barely knick the board and it will fold my left front up over my servo like I berried it in full blast. I'm using the standard Med plastics and am going to go aluminum to try and take care of the problem. My question is with the different level of plastics what is everyone seeing durability wise?
I would have to agree with Steve on this one, running a hard front bumper will save you a lot of breakage. I just recently craked a front c-hub, but its been a long time since I've had any broken parts, all still running the stock bumper mind you, so, yes, its really hit and miss, but the hard bumper will help.

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Originally Posted by revrunner View Post
Forgive me for not going through all 399 pages just yet, but how is this car out of the box? How is the ESC/motor (I will be running 2S), and how is parts availability, both replacement and upgrades? I'm considering picking one up as a re-entry into RC, and a HPI Sprint 2 Flux is the other choice on my wish-list right now, (though I have another thread looking for options, just to keep this thread on topic, it's titled "Best RTR for under $400?". I can't post links yet ) just wondering how it fairs both on a track and the street. What can I expect? There's not a whole lot of info out there on this. Well, besides this enormous thread anyway lol.
I think you're asking in reference to the S411 RTR car? Haven't really heard anything about the esc/motor that comes with that setup, it just doesn't fall into any type of class that we run, so no real input there. The car itself, is pretty tough.

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Originally Posted by gearhead_22 View Post
funny now y'all want to talk about arm sweep and turn in lol. I didn't know anything about this till I talk to chicky this weekend at the Halloween classic when I saw how his car turn in.
The problem with arm sweep, and taking into account all the above thats been said about it, (as well, way further back in this forum it was discussed as well) is that changing arm sweep effects so many different parts of the car that its very hard to determine if its the sweep or one of the other areas that gives you the on track performance you're tuning for. As stated, not only does it effect wheelbase, ackerman, suspension bind, shock angle forward and side, roll bar (if running one), so unless you change your arm sweep and then re-set everything back to where it was, you just don't know. We have found that just running the car with zero sweep works just as well and then go after each individual adjustment after that.
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Old 10-28-2013, 02:11 PM   #5981
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Originally Posted by Breeze View Post
What setup is everyone using for vta, I will be running a sport version
Go to the PetitRc site for the S411, I have a a CTA/VTA setup that worked pretty good for med bite carpet.

One thing to watch out for is some of the wheel combos for the front either require a bigger hex or a spacer to get wheel clearance. I ran the NASCAR type wheels and had no problems with the clearance, but I think some of the guys tried the 5 spoke and its tight.
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Old 10-28-2013, 02:19 PM   #5982
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yes i run a 1mm spacer on my fronts in vta.
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Old 10-28-2013, 07:37 PM   #5983
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Here is my 17.5 setup from WCICS Round 2 in Edmonton. The car was pretty easy to drive and had great corner speed, easily walking away in the infield.

The mod car was similar, but I struggled a bit to get the back end planted in a fast chicane. There changes from stock to mod were:
Serpent white rear spring
Serpent grey front spring
40wt front oil
3.5 rear suspension bracket
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 411-2.0 - Soon - WCICS Rd2 - 17.5.pdf (259.9 KB, 161 views)
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Old 10-28-2013, 08:54 PM   #5984
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Originally Posted by Steve S View Post
Here is my 17.5 setup from WCICS Round 2 in Edmonton. The car was pretty easy to drive and had great corner speed, easily walking away in the infield.

The mod car was similar, but I struggled a bit to get the back end planted in a fast chicane. There changes from stock to mod were:
Serpent white rear spring
Serpent grey front spring
40wt front oil
3.5 rear suspension bracket
you ran 350wt oil with all the holes in your shocks
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Old 10-28-2013, 09:42 PM   #5985
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Yes, when I built the 2.0 kit, the shocks felt considerably slower than my old shocks. Tighter tolerances maybe? So I went to 4-hole pistons to get the same feel.
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