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Old 09-11-2013, 09:05 PM   #5866
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Definitely get low profile over standard size. Some people have had problems with Savox servos and certain radios not getting along (Spektrum I think?). I've had no trouble with my Savox with Airtronics receivers though. The popular stand-by for TC seems to be the S9551.
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Old 09-11-2013, 09:21 PM   #5867
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Definitely get low profile over standard size. Some people have had problems with Savox servos and certain radios not getting along (Spektrum I think?). I've had no trouble with my Savox with Airtronics receivers though. The popular stand-by for TC seems to be the S9551.
Thank's Steve.. I seen lot of people running a standard size servo on their S411's and was wondering if there was some advantages to it? That's why i asked the question. Always had low profile servos and they are great. Hope my KO Propo eurus plays well with Savox on this car..
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Old 09-11-2013, 10:02 PM   #5868
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Also has anyone upgraded their s411TE to ERYX? Don't want to spend money on a new car at the moment. Any good parts to order for te S411 that's worth it from the ERYX.

Thanks guys,[/QUOTE]


I have upgrading my TE's to Eryx except for the split toe blocks. I think the best part is the V3 diffs even after taking into account more wear on blandes and outdrives than V2. They are tight smoth and light and you just put them together and the work great.
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Old 09-11-2013, 10:21 PM   #5869
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I think the best part is the V3 diffs even after taking into account more wear on blandes and outdrives than V2. They are tight smoth and light and you just put them together and the work great.
Thank's.. Seems like amainhobbies is out of lot of the eryx parts.. Lot of people must be upgrading their TE's...
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Old 09-12-2013, 12:09 AM   #5870
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Hey guy's

Need a new servo for my serpent, what do you guys recommend? My Futaba s9550 bit the dust after 7 years. Should I go low profile or regular size...I am going to try Savox servos this time around. Read really good reviews on them. How is their low profile for the s411TE?

Also has anyone upgraded their s411TE to ERYX? Don't want to spend money on a new car at the moment. Any good parts to order for te S411 that's worth it from the ERYX.

Thanks guys,
Hi there. I have a TE and a 2.0 on the way. I have upgraded my sterring rack (huge difference), and just added the mono motor mount, to the TE When the new Eryx comes out, ill be adding the new diff in the rear and bottom plate.
to start. JMO

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Old 09-12-2013, 08:20 AM   #5871
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Originally Posted by ATLASCOPCO View Post
Anyone know if there is a low friction WHITE belt set for the serpent
Thanks
Not that I have seen. Most of the companies that make belts that size only do black, and they are not low friction. Serpent makes an orange rear belt that will fit on the 411 but is a little wide and needs to be trimmed down slightly. Running it on one of my cars just because.

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Originally Posted by ICEBERG View Post
Hey guy's

Need a new servo for my serpent, what do you guys recommend? My Futaba s9550 bit the dust after 7 years. Should I go low profile or regular size...I am going to try Savox servos this time around. Read really good reviews on them. How is their low profile for the s411TE?

Also has anyone upgraded their s411TE to ERYX? Don't want to spend money on a new car at the moment. Any good parts to order for te S411 that's worth it from the ERYX.

Thanks guys,
I have used Futaba, KO, Savox, Protek, JR, Hitec, etc. My personally, I will go with KO all the time. I have PDS-2413's in both of my TC's and love them. Quiet, quick, strong, and super reliable. Futaba is my backup, and has never let me down either. I never had problems with Savox, but I always ran them with a capacitor. A lot of others at the track have had issues with them though, especially using Spektrum radio gear. They do pull more power, and can be more noisy. I would run a Protek over a Savox myself. I run Protek in offroad buggy and stadium truck and have been very pleased if looking for a price point servo. They are more noisy, but strong, quick, and no power issues.

I have not upgraded yet, but from what I have been told, the steering and diffs are the biggest upgrades, shocks are nice, split blocks/chassis is a nice tuning option but not a high priority. At the point of shocks and chassis, you are in the realm of just buying a new kit anyway though.
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Old 09-12-2013, 08:38 AM   #5872
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I have used Futaba, KO, Savox, Protek, JR, Hitec, etc. My personally, I will go with KO all the time. I have PDS-2413's in both of my TC's and love them. Quiet, quick, strong, and super reliable. Futaba is my backup, and has never let me down either. I never had problems with Savox, but I always ran them with a capacitor. A lot of others at the track have had issues with them though, especially using Spektrum radio gear. They do pull more power, and can be more noisy. I would run a Protek over a Savox myself. I run Protek in offroad buggy and stadium truck and have been very pleased if looking for a price point servo. They are more noisy, but strong, quick, and no power issues.

I have not upgraded yet, but from what I have been told, the steering and diffs are the biggest upgrades, shocks are nice, split blocks/chassis is a nice tuning option but not a high priority. At the point of shocks and chassis, you are in the realm of just buying a new kit anyway though.
Yea, not going to buy a new kit. But from what I gathering, looks like the steering and diff upgrade seems to be the most recommended. Might also order the mono mount to see how it works.

Also Thank's for the info on KO servos. I will look into the pds-2413.. Love their radios..
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Old 09-12-2013, 09:15 AM   #5873
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Originally Posted by ICEBERG View Post
Hey guy's

Need a new servo for my serpent, what do you guys recommend? My Futaba s9550 bit the dust after 7 years. Should I go low profile or regular size...I am going to try Savox servos this time around. Read really good reviews on them. How is their low profile for the s411TE?

Also has anyone upgraded their s411TE to ERYX? Don't want to spend money on a new car at the moment. Any good parts to order for te S411 that's worth it from the ERYX.

Thanks guys,
I upgaded my TE to the ERYX and changed every and I mean every thing but the arms and the car handled nice that was untill my speedo went and I put my 17.5 stuff in my real ERYX that I ran mod with and I was 1/2 a second faster on every lap, could handle more punch from the speedo and better corner speed.
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Old 09-12-2013, 01:26 PM   #5874
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I upgaded my TE to the ERYX and changed every and I mean every thing but the arms and the car handled nice that was untill my speedo went and I put my 17.5 stuff in my real ERYX that I ran mod with and I was 1/2 a second faster on every lap, could handle more punch from the speedo and better corner speed.
Wow, so you were 1/2 second quicker with the real ERYX then your upgrade TE one, even though it had the same parts same chasis and Same set-up and everything? Interesting... Maybe your old speedo had problems before it went. What speedo do you have now compared to your old one?
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Old 09-12-2013, 07:56 PM   #5875
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Wow, so you were 1/2 second quicker with the real ERYX then your upgrade TE one, even though it had the same parts same chasis and Same set-up and everything? Interesting... Maybe your old speedo had problems before it went. What speedo do you have now compared to your old one?
the old speedo was a lrp sxx v2 and the one I am using now is the lrp flow
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Old 09-13-2013, 08:19 PM   #5876
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With the new car running short springs, what everyones tips to get normal length springs to fit, the main thing i have seen guys do is machine the collars down a bit any one got any other tips or a pic, also any one tried the new Ride springs they look they might be worth a try.

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Old 09-14-2013, 06:14 PM   #5877
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is this V3 gear diff? I got the part # from serpent web but it shows V2

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...r-Differential
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Old 09-14-2013, 11:19 PM   #5878
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is this V3 gear diff? I got the part # from serpent web but it shows V2

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...r-Differential
Yes, I guess that both "names" are used
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Old 09-16-2013, 07:59 AM   #5879
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Default CAR IS FASTER BROKE

For those that want to make your ERYX 2.0 faster I found the answer. I recently switched chassis from the VBC Wildfire to the ERYX 2.0 and can't ask for a more durable chassis. I have ran countless packs and hit the boards countless times, some were hard hits at full speed. I went out to practice at my local track on Wednesday night, getting better and faster with the car I got a little greedy, took a hard hit from a board and the car finally broke (top deck). I didn't realize the top deck was broke in half until Saturday night when I was getting the car ready for Sunday race day. I wasn't going to race but I decided to go anyway just because, I'm glad I did.

The track I race at has a fast lap of 9.9 held by one guy (the track owner) but the consistent lap times from the top A-Main runners are at 10.1's - 10.3's..... Prior to breaking the car my best lap was a 10.6 but stayed consistent around 10.9's - 11.20....

Now the top deck is broke I turned two 10.2's and was running 10.5 - 10.8's consistently and the car never felt more planted and dialed. I did leave the broken top deck bolted on and ran the car that way, (I didn't run the car without it).

Also I'm running the car without stabilizer bars

Anyone's thoughts here would be appreciated lol
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Old 09-16-2013, 10:59 AM   #5880
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Originally Posted by crabboy View Post
With the new car running short springs, what everyones tips to get normal length springs to fit, the main thing i have seen guys do is machine the collars down a bit any one got any other tips or a pic, also any one tried the new Ride springs they look they might be worth a try.

Rhys
The new shock where designed to accept the normal length springs (Serpent springs). I have run other makes of springs on these shocks as well, Xray, Associated, 3R, and RSD, they all will fit, although ride height adjustments can be a challenge sometimes. Haven't tried ride springs, but I suspect they will be the same as the others above. Machining the collars could get you a bit more adjustment, but there isn't much there to work with, maybe about 1mm.

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Originally Posted by 1shnot View Post
is this V3 gear diff? I got the part # from serpent web but it shows V2

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...r-Differential
The last diffs I received all had the tags on them stating that they where V3 diffs. Best to double check the website for the V3 diff number if thats what your after. Shows part #401592 geardiff composite V3

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Originally Posted by NEW-TO-VBC View Post
For those that want to make your ERYX 2.0 faster I found the answer. I recently switched chassis from the VBC Wildfire to the ERYX 2.0 and can't ask for a more durable chassis. I have ran countless packs and hit the boards countless times, some were hard hits at full speed. I went out to practice at my local track on Wednesday night, getting better and faster with the car I got a little greedy, took a hard hit from a board and the car finally broke (top deck). I didn't realize the top deck was broke in half until Saturday night when I was getting the car ready for Sunday race day. I wasn't going to race but I decided to go anyway just because, I'm glad I did.

The track I race at has a fast lap of 9.9 held by one guy (the track owner) but the consistent lap times from the top A-Main runners are at 10.1's - 10.3's..... Prior to breaking the car my best lap was a 10.6 but stayed consistent around 10.9's - 11.20....

Now the top deck is broke I turned two 10.2's and was running 10.5 - 10.8's consistently and the car never felt more planted and dialed. I did leave the broken top deck bolted on and ran the car that way, (I didn't run the car without it).

Also I'm running the car without stabilizer bars

Anyone's thoughts here would be appreciated lol
If your track is really bumpy the bars can throw the car off, but if your on smooth track the bars will help the car in tuning.

To substitute for the broken top deck adjustment, you could try running with less screws on the top deck and play around with the motor mount inner bracket, maybe even consider going to the setscrew over the lower screw. Usually the flexi top decks break at the back not the front like yours, if the car is a new kit and you sustained that much damage, I would also check the lower bumper mount, the "extended" plastic bumper will bend down and cause handling issues....I usually trim that outer perimeter off the bumper.
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